You vote for the light you think is right

fats71

fats71

Active Member
Ok, so I have been all over trying to find the perfect light. I am now back at ground zero as i now have upto 900 dollars and not a penny more to spend on lights. I want to be able to toss anything I want into the tank that would need high power lighting mh whatever it might be.
Here are some choices I have started looking at now since my budget become higher ( the wife said yes if I shut up about it all. )
Please let me know which ones you would choose and why.
they will be fixture
 
mr_x

mr_x

Active Member
giesemann makes night fixtures, and so does hamilton.
i'd look into those before settling in on one of the ones above.
 
fats71

fats71

Active Member
Originally Posted by Mr_X
http:///forum/post/2556946
giesemann makes night fixtures, and so does hamilton.
i'd look into those before settling in on one of the ones above.
The current has night lights as well plus mh etc so why those instead of the current ? is it beccause off the "Parabolic Reflector"?
Hood Lighting Chart (for determining the necessary wattage you need)
Metal Halide Lighting Overview
Choosing the Right Aquarium Lighting
PARTS:
HQI Replacement Lamps for Outer Orbit
Outer Orbit Parts (for the metal halide components)
Outer Orbit Parts (for the compact fluorescent components)
OVERVIEW:
The Current USA Outer Orbit HQI metal halide light is a spectacular 24-hour lighting solution that combines our 10,000k PowerPaq HQI Metal Halide, SunPaq Dual Actinics (half 420nm and half 460nm) and Moon White Lunar Lights into one sleek, integrated fixture.
FEATURES:
Internal electronic metal halide and power compact ballasts (this light has no external ballasts)
the 48 inch two fans. The Pendant does not have a fan.
Lightweight Sleek European Design
Includes Docking Mounts (legs for mounting the leg on the tank).
Parabolic Reflector
Splash lens to protect the bulbs
Independent switches and cords for metal halide and power compact ballasts. Lunar light also has independent power cord.
Comes with two heavy-duty, grounded timers
Comes with hanging kit
 
T

tizzo

Guest
I DIDN'T VOTE BECAUSE 250 WATT (sorry) was not on the list, and when I searched a few, I couldn't really find any under 900 dollars.
But my vote would be dual 250's and as far as actinics, it doesn't matter...t-5's, pc's or VHO.
I had a 175 and had to upgrade.
My new tank came with 150 DE's and I had to upgrade.
If you want to comfortably keep just about anything, I'd go straight for 250 watt halides.
 
fats71

fats71

Active Member
Originally Posted by Tizzo
http:///forum/post/2557247
I DIDN'T VOTE BECAUSE 250 WATT (sorry) was not on the list, and when I searched a few, I couldn't really find any under 900 dollars.
But my vote would be dual 250's and as far as actinics, it doesn't matter...t-5's, pc's or VHO.
I had a 175 and had to upgrade.
My new tank came with 150 DE's and I had to upgrade.
If you want to comfortably keep just about anything, I'd go straight for 250 watt halides.

How about a brand so as I can see which ones you like. Why would a 175 not be enough ? Honestly the tek should be able to hold anything under it and so should the aqua and nova. Why does it need to be 250's and as I said I can not find any under 900 bucks.
 
T

tizzo

Guest
When I had my 175's corals low in my tank started loosing color and the ones high were all turning brown. When I got my 250's they all looked like I wanted. I had a blue tort that had pretty blue tips, but when I gave it to a friend with 250 DE's (IN a frag tank, coral was about 8 inches from the light), I didn't even recognize that coral after 30 days!! In my tank it was brown with blue tips, in his tank the entire thing was purplish blue!! It was a beauty. The frags I just got from cali were 2 different colors, I actually asked the guy if they were the same coral. He said one was high, one was low in his tank, and he did have halides.
It's not that corals cannot survive, but they all look drab in the lower lighting.
Torts cannot be kept low in a tank with 150 or 175's and keep their beauty.
As far as brand...it's all the same to me.
I'm an ice cap fanatic but I think those are all retros.
 
fats71

fats71

Active Member
Originally Posted by Tizzo
http:///forum/post/2557359
When I had my 175's corals low in my tank started loosing color and the ones high were all turning brown. When I got my 250's they all looked like I wanted. I had a blue tort that had pretty blue tips, but when I gave it to a friend with 250 DE's (IN a frag tank, coral was about 8 inches from the light), I didn't even recognize that coral after 30 days!! In my tank it was brown with blue tips, in his tank the entire thing was purplish blue!! It was a beauty. The frags I just got from cali were 2 different colors, I actually asked the guy if they were the same coral. He said one was high, one was low in his tank, and he did have halides.
It's not that corals cannot survive, but they all look drab in the lower lighting.
Torts cannot be kept low in a tank with 150 or 175's and keep their beauty.
As far as brand...it's all the same to me.
I'm an ice cap fanatic but I think those are all retros.
Well, how about which ones do you have specifically.
 
geoj

geoj

Active Member
I feel the 150 are not enough for me at 24-30 inches deep. I would like more and 250 is the next real increase. I have not used the T5s and some say they are good up to 24 inches deep w/reflectors but I can’t say that having not used them. The higher the frequency the less light output so a 175 at 14-20k is not that more than a 150 at 10k so a 250 will let you really go high k.
 
fats71

fats71

Active Member
My setup is 48Lx21deepx19 wide
It is really only about 19 deep due to the sand bed so im not goinng real deep.
I do not have the issue of needing to go deep as i said im really only 19 deep
Right now the current is in top for what I should go with any reason as to why ?
Some people just vote but do not say why which I am really needing to know why they prefer them overr the others.
Same with TEK why over the others actually all of the people who voted can you give a why ??
 
m0nk

m0nk

Active Member
Originally Posted by Fats71
http:///forum/post/2557450
My setup is 48Lx21deepx19 wide
It is really only about 19 deep due to the sand bed so im not goinng real deep.
I do not have the issue of needing to go deep as i said im really only 19 deep
Right now the current is in top for what I should go with any reason as to why ?
Some people just vote but do not say why which I am really needing to know why they prefer them overr the others.
Same with TEK why over the others actually all of the people who voted can you give a why ??
You need to consider that the fixture will be about 2 inches off the tank, too. For your depth/width, I'd go 250w as well, and if you go the T-5 route, try to get T-5 w/individual reflectors for the actinics, otherwise you might as well just do the PC's.
Now for the budget speel: If you need to save you could always go the route of the Odyssea fixture, just google: "48" 760W Metal Halide System" and you'll find it. The whole thing is $380. Of course, at some point you might want to swap out the MH ballasts for something slightly better, but it's the best thing for a budget.
 
fats71

fats71

Active Member
Originally Posted by m0nk
http:///forum/post/2557463
You need to consider that the fixture will be about 2 inches off the tank, too. For your depth/width, I'd go 250w as well, and if you go the T-5 route, try to get T-5 w/individual reflectors for the actinics, otherwise you might as well just do the PC's.
Now for the budget speel: If you need to save you could always go the route of the Odyssea fixture, just google: "48" 760W Metal Halide System" and you'll find it. The whole thing is $380. Of course, at some point you might want to swap out the MH ballasts for something slightly better, but it's the best thing for a budget.

I have seen them and read a lot about the fires etc but I think the fixed that when they went to the electric ballast. I have sent somme messages to different people etc whom have the new ones and all are happy withh them for the most part. I would consider them and swaping out the balllast for icecaps but for the icecap ballast I might as well go with the aqua 48 I have posted I would think.
I am more unsure now than I was last night lol this is getting to be a real chore in pickinng the "right light"
 
m0nk

m0nk

Active Member
Originally Posted by Fats71
http:///forum/post/2557653
I have seen them and read a lot about the fires etc but I think the fixed that when they went to the electric ballast. I have sent somme messages to different people etc whom have the new ones and all are happy withh them for the most part. I would consider them and swaping out the balllast for icecaps but for the icecap ballast I might as well go with the aqua 48 I have posted I would think.
I am more unsure now than I was last night lol this is getting to be a real chore in pickinng the "right light"
I know the feeling, I was going through the "lighting pick" problem about 6 months ago, but then decided that for my tank upgrade I'd get something used and whatever came with it would work. The tank I got has a canopy w/ 4x 175w MH magnetic ballasts and bulbs bulbs and a VHO controller w/ 4x 160w VHO lights run off of 2 IceCap ballasts. It's plenty of light for my tank, but I probably would have gotten the Odyssea fixture and replaced the ballasts (it's still cheaper than buying any of these fixtures, too) if I had to buy it separately, just because of the money thing.
 
reefraff

reefraff

Active Member
I voted solar flare before I saw your tank was only 21" tall. Unless you plan on SPS, clams and Anemones only that light is overkill.
The Aquactinic TX5 T5 fixture will let you grow anything in that tank as long as you place them right.
 
fats71

fats71

Active Member
[+] Click to enlarge image
[+] Click to enlarge image
Aquactinics Solar Flare 48" Complete
[AQIC4800]
$897.00 $854.95
Aquactinics Complete kit with Ballasts, Moon Light and Shield
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6 Lamp T5 4' complete kit
- Dimensions: 48" L x 15" W x 4.25" H
- Designed to sit on top of tank without directly heating water
- 6 IceCap SLR ( Single Lamp Reflectors )
- One IceCap model 660 electronic ballast ( Powers 4 lamps on one switch/power cord )
- One IceCap model 430 electronic ballast ( Powers 2 lamps on one switch/power cord )
- Two 80mm IceCap variable speed fans
- Two 1 Watt Actinic Moonlights
- Full length splash shield included
- All aluminum construction
- Optional legs or hanging kits
- Four year warranty on IceCap ballasts
- Light weight, only 18 lbs fully loaded.
- 2 color choices: Mirror Black or IceCap Blue
Lamps not included in price.

I think for the price with the icecaps wouldn't it be cheaper to go this route than to buy a 350 dollar light and add this stuff separately or am I wrong and it would be cheaper to buy the cheaper light and add the icecaps etc.
Just adding the two icecap ballast to the cheaper lamp withh two icecap fans would be the same price as I would be paying for the other aqua. It might be about a hundred higher but that is due to bulb purchase.
 
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