An Easy and Cheap Way to Cure Ich (or ick) - My Adventure with 'Ich-Attack' by Kordon

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tizzo

Guest
Originally Posted by sepulatian
http:///forum/post/2657499
Sep comes out when the moon does

ntracy, you will notice that over time you will not need all of that stuff. Your tank will stabilize as it matures. I use my refractometer and nitrate test kit the most, but have quite a large arsenal of supplies.
I can't even see most of it. I see test kits, which is good, deammonia-ers (you see I make up my own words.
), and the ionics. Which you can tweak with but I wouldn't recomend it to a new hobbiest.
And I can't make out what the others are...

But that mac is nice.
 

sepulatian

Moderator
The only thing I am not sure on is the GVH. The small, mint green, bottle looks to be test strips. Aqua plus is water conditioner.
 

ntracy

Member
Here's what I have in the pic from left to right:
API Saltwater Master Test Kit
API Master Reef Test Kit
GVH Fish Food soak with garlic, Vitamins, and HUFA's
6-in-1 Quick Dip Test Strips (crappy)
Marine Buffer (Raises pH)
Amquel Plus
Ich-Attack (embarassingly hidden behind the amquel hehe)
Aqua Plus Water Conditioner
Brightwell Aquatics Reef Code A (calcium)
Brightwell Aquatics Reef Code B (Buffer)
Brightwell Aquatics Phytogreen
Brightwell Aquatics Zooplankton
 
T

tizzo

Guest
Originally Posted by ntracy
http:///forum/post/2657522
Here's what I have in the pic from left to right:
API Saltwater Master Test Kit
good
API Master Reef Test Kit
good
GVH Fish Food soak with garlic, Vitamins, and HUFA's
good
6-in-1 Quick Dip Test Strips (crappy)
yes crappy, just pitch em
Marine Buffer (Raises pH)
raises pH cause it raises alkalinity, don't add it if your alk levels are OK
Amquel Plus
Are you using RO?
Ich-Attack (embarassingly hidden behind the amquel hehe)
Throw that away too..

Aqua Plus Water Conditioner
same as the amquel right?
Brightwell Aquatics Reef Code A (calcium)
You most likely don't have anything depleting calcium so you don't need to add it
Brightwell Aquatics Reef Code B (Buffer)
good so you know it's a buffer.
Brightwell Aquatics Phytogreen
some people add phyto, I never have...
Brightwell Aquatics Zooplankton
be careful about suspension foods, they contaminate your water and feed very little.
.
 

ntracy

Member
I have a flame scallop and a clam which is why I have the calcium. I also have an anemone in addition to a lot of corals which is why I have the phyto and zooplankton.
The aqua plus and it only gets the chlorine out... but the amquel does it all, so I'll keep them both since they can serve different purposes.
 

ntracy

Member
I used to test it every day, but after daily tests that were the same for 3 weeks (with odd days adding calcium), I have since done it every 2-3 days... still with the same levels.
Here's what I check:
pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Salinity, Calcium, Alkalinity, Phosphate.
 
T

tizzo

Guest
What is your calcium level at last check? Do you remember? I got another thread for you to take a stab at, lemme find it...
 
T

tizzo

Guest
Well that's balanced. When you said your levels stayed the same even after you add it, I was worried you might need magnesium. But with high 400's that's definitely not the case.
 
T

tizzo

Guest
Now you gotta go look at your goniopora thread. You got an answer, maybe you forgot you posted it, lol
 

ntracy

Member
yeah I saw the post. Too many crises! I guess I'll have to treat the 14 for brown worms. Do you think I should keep everything in there? or remove the other corals except for the infected one and treat it? I'd hate to cross-contaminate. But I don't want to stress everything out.
P.S. I love fire shrimp! worth every penny! My Cleaner shrimps don't clean anything, but they're hogs when it comes to feeding time. The one fire shrimp I own is always hanging off of one of my fish... it single-handedly does more work than all three cleaner shrimps combined! worth the extra $12.
 
T

tizzo

Guest
No no, flatworms are easy to treat for... First you get a turkey baster and try to syphon out what you see...
Then you put in 30 drops of flatworm exit. (2 drops per gallon).
It will not harm any of your corals or shrimp! It's completely safe.
Then you have to syphon out (with the turkey baster again) as many as you can if it's not to bad.
Then you run lots of carbon, cause, as a flatworm dies, it turns itself insideout and releases toxins into your water. Then a water change.
Very simple.
But in the future, when you buy a coral, take the flatworm exit out of your pocket and put one drop in the bag that the LFS packages it in, and it will kill them all before you even get home.
 
T

tizzo

Guest
Originally Posted by ntracy
http:///forum/post/2657590
My Twin Spot isn't looking good...


Ick again?
Are they covered??
What are his symptoms? For a bunch of fish to just up and die all at once due to ick is odd. Usually the healthy ones can fight it a little better.
What's your tank temp?
How are you oxygenating?
 

ntracy

Member
I think my tank was too new (for starters) and it wasn't helping anyone's health. Then for me to take everyone and put them in a totally different environment isn't helping with the stress. Lastly, the twin spot is a sand sifter... there's only one cup's worth of sand in the QT.
The clowns died from brooklynella. I'm sure of it. Thankfully my more-expensive black clown is still doing good. In fact, everyone seems to be fine. Even the Hippo tang that started all of this is looking good.
Here's what I have:
3 Chromis
1 Pseudo
1 twin spot goby
2 Hippo tangs (3/4" long and 1" long)
1 Copper Butterfly
1 Sixline Wrasse
1 Black Clown
1 Clown Goby
 
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