Helping out a bleached anemone

doboy

doboy

Member
Thomas,
I bought an anemone that looked doomed in the LFS. He has the symptoms you described as bleaching. Namely, translucent appearance and hiding from the light.
He seems to have took to the rock I placed him in quite well. The hole was a good fit with some room to spare. He is about 6 inches below the surface under 260 watts of PC light.
My question is, is it better to try and feed him when it's dark and his tentacles are extended? I have fed him in the light, and he's getting some of it. But, with his tentacles retracted, I don't think he's getting as much as he could.
Any other recommendations for TLC would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim
 
viper_930

viper_930

Active Member
What kind of anemone is it?
Feed him 2-3 times per week. As long as he actively grabs the food and brings it to his mouth, feeding during the day is good enough IMO.
 
T

thomas712

Guest
Sometimes I will feed before lights go on, for instance. While its still dark my candy cane will have its tenticals all out, this is when I feed it.
With the BTA's however many times (at lights out) they will close right up, kinda pull there base right around there tentacles, you don't want to try feeding it at that time. Its better to feed when the tentacles are out and ready to capture food, this is normally during the photo period.
Now in the bleached case, its important to try to feed like Viper said 2 or 3 times per week, because it really needs the nurousment. This "food" somehow has to replace the energy that is normally released by the photosynthisis that takes place within the zooxanthellae that is normally insinde the anemone. I would definatly have a variety of food to try to feed it and even suppliment it with some vitamin like selcon, zoecon or something. Just don't feed it any type of frozen brine.
I think even for the 10 hosting anemones that when lights are out then its a time for rest, I wouldn't try to teach it to try to feed when the lights are out. Try it when you feel that the tenticals are out the most.
If he is hiding from the light then you may want to cut back on your photo period for a while and then build back up, chances are he is not used to the strength of your lights compared to what he was under.
If it was a sebae let me know. I might change my tune a bit on that species.
Thomas
 
doboy

doboy

Member
Website is not allowing posting of pictures right now. I'll try it later. I gave him 4 bb sized chunks of scallop this morning, which he ate.
 
T

thomas712

Guest
yep, it seems to be that sebae's are much more prone to loosing their zoo after being collected, transported handled..etc..
Now that I know its a sebae I'd have to say that I doubt that your 260 watts of PC will be enough to bring it back fully to a healthy state. Least not for a long time.
I've seen it with other sebae's, under PC lighting, and with metal halides. Best thread about bringing a sebae back to health with pics was a thread with broomer5 and his sebea. If you have not seen it I could post it if you like.
Thomas
 
doboy

doboy

Member
Thanks, Thomas. I have seen Broomer5 s thread. It's a pretty convincing bunch of pictures.
I plan on trying whatever I can to help this guy out in the short term, and get some more light in the longer term. I'm looking for some MH that will work with my current setup.
Jim
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top