Ich ? True Or False

[ratrod]

I know there has been much debate on this subject, and a reefers worst nightmare is bringing a new fish into a trouble free reef and having an Ich breakout. Quarenteen is the answere that makes the most sence to me. So, here"s the question. Is it true that fish have ich on them all the time like humans have staph and it manafests itself with stress or opportunity, so in other words fish can catch it without being introduced. Or is it acquired?

 

[1journeyman]

Absolutely false.
Ich is a known parasite with a known life cycle. Using proper QT you can forever maintain an Ich free system.

 

[ratrod]

1journeyman, thats the way I understood it as well. But then this weekend I ended up in a discussion over blue tangs and how easily they get ich and was told that it lives on them and manafests itself because they stress easy. So the bottom line is if they dont have it they cant get it unless its introduced into the system.

 

[reefkprz]

Originally Posted by ratrod
So the bottom line is if they dont have it they cant get it unless its introduced into the system.

 

[baloo6969]

ICk is a parasite. If the system is left to cycle with NO fish for ATLEAST a month, your system will be ICK free. Since Ick needs a host, and part of its cycle is to be free floating is ~2 weeks...if there is no host, it dies.
ick is introduced into a system. It does NOT stay in sand beds...waiting to POP out 2 weeks after a new fish has been added. It doesn’t wait to attach itself to a fish until it is "Sick" or "Stressed" it grabs onto the fist thing it get's it's "teeth into". Not sure why tangs are affected more though, possibly tangs internal salinity is different than other fish...maybe but I may be wrong.
if you add snails or crabs that you got from your LFS (he also has an outbreak of ick...or a minor case in his tanks) and there are ICK parasites in the water, all it takes is 1 or 2 of those little guys floating around in the water of your snails or crabs shell, you will soon (weeks or months) have ICK in your tank...that's why QTing EVERYTHING even corals and inverts is necessary...before putting ANYTHING in your tank.
The fact is that it's a parasite, and if you don’t QT EVERYTHING that goes into your tank, you risk getting ICK in your DT.

 

[ratrod]

I definatly agree with the quarenteen Idea if not just for ich for God only knows what else. I appreciate the imput and the clarafication

 

[fishgeek01]

I beleive in the qt of all things as well, but one question for all of you, would it stand if someone were to make the comment that in a heavily skimmed tank the possibilities of adding ich due to a coral or invert are very minimal, when all of your fish are used to your tank, and not stressed? I know that stress is a mitigating factor for getting ich. A stressed fish has a weekened immune system, but in a tank with minimal stress and a good amount of skimming, heck, lets throw in heavy mechanical filtration as well, would that make it nearly...(not impossible) but nearly impossible to have an outbreak? The skimmer would effectively remove the parasite in its free floating form correct?

 

[ratrod]

Skimming might get some of it? UV steralization would definatly get the stuff in the water

 

[fishgeek01]

didn't even think about the uv sterilizer... would the combination of the three be enough to keep you from qt'ing your inverts and corals?

 

[reefstar22]

Using a QT tank is ALWAYS best. - I will NEVER add a fish directly into my tank with out QT. - Me personally. - Some will agree some will disagree.
Here is how I do it.
I have a QT tank. - Its constantly running. (ALWAYS)
Inside the tank I have simply sand. - The room I keep it in is low lit so the fish have minimal stress to things moving around it..etc.
Now - When I am about ready to purchase a fish that I have researched and like, I will drain the tank, and fill it with water from my display. - Meaning same levels that are in my tank the fish will be exposed to.
Day 1.
-Drip fish for 20 minutes.
-Leave fish alone for 1 day.
Day 2.
Feed fish (Use foods with vitamins and garlic)
Day 3 - 10 continue
Day 11-14
Change out 25% of water with current display tank water
Day 15
By now you should have noticed any parasites, eatting problems etc. - If your fish appears to be healthy he is already adjusted to your water of your tank,temp etc.
Night - Day 15 -
Add fish once your display lights have turned off - He is going to be in a new surrounding and you do NOT want other fish picking on him ...etc
Day 16
I keep my MH's off, and 2 of my 4 PC's off.
Tank is low lit... perfect for adapting
Day 17
Fish is ready, healthy safe, fat and eating perfectly.
NEVER had a problem.
Over protective? - YES - But these fish are expensive, We have removed them from there natural habitat and its only far we give them a fighting chance.
Take care of our underwater allies.

 

[ratrod]

I like what reefstar wrote, I'll add what I do for an extra idea that works for me. I run a dual sump system that is plumbed such that one sump can be separated with a turn of a vavle or two for an independent QT tank or a quick water change. It also adds another 55gal to the system

 

[baloo6969]

Originally Posted by ratrod
Skimming might get some of it? UV steralization would definatly get the stuff in the water
it would have to be ~30watts to kill ick...pro-active if anything. if it had good flow.

 

[baloo6969]

reefstar...excelent way. Before i put him in a QT tank, he goes in a hospital tank for 2 weeks. Copper the first week, antifungal and antibio's the second...then put him in a QT tank...if it lives through that, then he's good for my DT.

 

[1journeyman]

Originally Posted by baloo6969
reefstar...excelent way. Before i put him in a QT tank, he goes in a hospital tank for 2 weeks. Copper the first week, antifungal and antibio's the second...then put him in a QT tank...if it lives through that, then he's good for my DT.
I'm not a big fan of medicating without symptoms.

 

[reefstar22]

I agree with journey,
You dont need to treat a fish with cooper or anything of that nature. - Your more than fine in a standard QT tank and just monitoring symptoms and other suspicious characteristics. - Cooper to a fish is like kemo-therapy to a human.
Just becareful. - Remember if you put them in a health environment, give them the correct food, you'll notice any odd behaviors with in the first few days. - After that your really just confirming what you learned the first few days. - I like water changes over a few days because that will slowly get them back to the Display tank water standards incase they have freakly changed in a couple days. (unlikely) - But it doesn't hurt. - Plus it gives me a reason to do a water change to my main display.
Best of luck!