Why should I start at quarantine tank?

chrismilano

Member
I have a 4-year old 70 gallon tank. Right now, its empty due to tragedies we wont get into here. I have left it empty for 30 days to eradicate ich.
Now that I am FINALL Ich-Free, when I begin adding fish. What is the correct way to do it? I have a 20 gallon qt tank that is not currently set up. I am debating setting it up.
Why does qt'ing a fish help my showtank... if a fish has ich when I buy it, it will still have ich 30 days later - right? why would a qt tank eliminate anything the fish comes in with? Is it supposed to have copper for new fish?
Please teach me the right way!
 

squidd

Active Member
Originally posted by chrismilano
I have a 4-year old 70 gallon tank. Right now, its empty due to tragedies we wont get into here. I have left it empty for 30 days to eradicate ich.
Now that I am FINALL Ich-Free, when I begin adding fish. What is the correct way to do it? I have a 20 gallon qt tank that is not currently set up. I am debating setting it up.
Why does qt'ing a fish help my showtank... if a fish has ich when I buy it, it will still have ich 30 days later - right?
No, just like your main tank is now ick free, 30 days in QT will help you find and treat new fish (if they have anything) prior to adding to MT..
why would a qt tank eliminate anything the fish comes in with? Is it supposed to have copper for new fish?You "could" treat with copper in QT, but a 30 day "Hypo" treatment may be better all around.. Or you may need to do "other" meds if the fish's condition warrents...
Please teach me the right way!
Read through this Thread...
https://www.saltwaterfish.com/vb/show...hreadid=127007
 

evilmantis

Member
After losing several hundred dollars worth of fish due to not understanding and/or believing what people said, I now QT *everything* that goes into the display. It's a 4 week QT. Definitely read the FAQ. I have tried many, many ich treatments, and the only one that has really worked for me is hypo. It's a pain, but it works.
Here's my quarantine process:
Fish:
Place in QT tank for four weeks total. If at the end of the four weeks he has never shown signs of ich, move to display. The four weeks is vital because that it the life cycle of ich, thus if there is any ich present, you WILL see it. If at any time he shows signs of ich, start a hypo treatment. Leave fish in hypo for four weeks from when last sign of ich disappears. Monitor tank chemistry very carefully. Four weeks from when last sign of ich went away, slowly raise salinity. Monitor fish for a few more days to assure health, place into display. MAKE SURE YOU UNDERSTAND HYPO, OR THIS WILL NOT WORK. You must maintain the low salinity for the full four weeks.
Inverts:
I know inverts can't have ich, but the water they are in can have ich if they were in a tank with fish (or on a shared water system with tanks that had fish). Thus inverts must also undergo QT. However, it's pretty simple. Assuming there are no fish in the QT tank, simply place the inverts in the QT tank and leave for four weeks. If there was any ich in the water they came in, it will die since there are no fish for it to live on. After four weeks, move inverts to display.
Good luck, and read the FAQ. Believe the people on here -- they know what they are talking about.l
Goldie
 

chrismilano

Member
Well, it cost me well over $1000 after 4 years, 3 queen angels, 3 clown triggers and God knows what else, but my qt is currently cycling.
Thanks all.
 

squidd

Active Member
Stressfull or cramped living conditions can "bring on" ick or at least lower fish's resistance to it...
Are you sure a 70 is the right size tank for Queen Angels and Clown Triggers...??
 

chrismilano

Member
I think the clown was ok, he lived 2 years and caught ick from a new fish.
The queens all died as babies. Damn things are too finicky. True, an adult should have a 100.
I would put a trigger in a 70 again though.
 
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