Cycling question

[flower]

It's been some time since I set up a brand new tank... I have the 30g long cycling...I have just been waiting for it to go to 0, I knew it would take time so I haven't bothered with testing, since I poured pour ammonia into the tank and there was no need to wait for it to spike.

I have two tests in my Seachem ammonia kit. One is total ammonia, and the other is free ammonia... which one do I use to do my test?

 

[geridoc]

Free ammonia is the toxic stuff, measure that.

 

[flower]

Thanks

 

[beaslbob]

+1

macro algaes really likes ammonia.

the real importance of the seachem test kit is when you use ammonia locks (as you already know). It will tell you when to stop adding prime or whatever ammonia lock you are using.


my .02

 

[flower]

+1

macro algaes really likes ammonia.

the real importance of the seachem test kit is when you use ammonia locks (as you already know). It will tell you when to stop adding prime or whatever ammonia lock you are using.


my .02

So if I understand you...the total ammonia is to know when to quit using prime, thank you. I couldn't figure out why they had such a test, if all I needed was a reading on "FREE" ammonia. I need light for the macros and I ordered one, it should be here tomorrow... I just checked the tracking, and for some reason the UPS turn it over to the post office. UPS tracking said the light was to be delivered Wednesday. In anticipation I added some prolifera today since I was harvesting...if the light is delayed and it doesn't make it...LOL..I have plenty more where that came from.

 

[beaslbob]

Actually if the free ammonia goes to 0 then stop using prime. Even if the total ammonia is really high. In that case Prime has locked up the ammonia.

By contrast if you were only measuring total ammonia (like most test kits) you would think you have to add more ammonia lock which would be unnecessary. And the ammonia locks like prime also lock up oxygen and are actually toxic at higher levels to fish. Basically then can suffocate the fish which gives much the same symptoms as ammonia. (rapid breathing slow miving and so on)


Macros will rapidily consume the ammonia anyway.

 

[flower]

Actually if the free ammonia goes to 0 then stop using prime. Even if the total ammonia is really high. In that case Prime has locked up the ammonia.

By contrast if you were only measuring total ammonia (like most test kits) you would think you have to add more ammonia lock which would be unnecessary. And the ammonia locks like prime also lock up oxygen and are actually toxic at higher levels to fish. Basically then can suffocate the fish which gives much the same symptoms as ammonia. (rapid breathing slow miving and so on)


Macros will rapidily consume the ammonia anyway.

I have never used prime. I have only heard of it... If I see any ammonia in an established tank or QT... I always just do water changes.

I did add some prolifera, and a 5 inch piece of Cryptonemia, I only have nitrite readings now... Nitrite is still off the chart high as of this morning. I couldn't add macros until I had some light. I got the light day before yesterday so now I'm all set. It's just the waiting game for now. I hope the horses can manage to not get stung before I can transfer them to a safer tank, and clean up the one they are in. LOL...Then I'm going to keep the 30g set up for some Erectus seahorses. I would post some pictures but my charger (I have looked everywhere I can think of) to the camera disappeared, so I can't take any... I just ordered a new one.

 

[bang guy]

Flower, Nitrite or Nitrate?

 

[flower]

Flower, Nitrite or Nitrate?

Hi,

I'm using SeaChem kits. Nitrite test is super red ...a shade or two above the shade on the test result card. If it were 0 it would be a very light pink. The Free ammonia reading was at 6+, it's now at 0. I used pure ammonia to begin the cycle, I overdid the ammonia on purpose...seahorses are so messy and I needed the tank with enough good bacteria for two adult Kuda horses and a pipefish.

 

[bang guy]

A Nitrite reading means you have insufficient bacteria that consume Nitrite & oxygen and excrete Nitrate. Although the Nitrite itself isn't all that harmful, it's a serious failure of the nitrogen cycle.

It will work itself out but you will have to back off the ammonia.

Just for future reference, ammonia is also toxic to the bacteria you are trying to grow so more is NOT better. In my opinion, the ideal ammonia level to grow bacteria for the nitrogen cycle is a steady 0.25ppm. This is a very low level that is harmless to nitrifying bacteria and yet high enough that they can grow and reproduce.

 

[flower]

A Nitrite reading means you have insufficient bacteria that consume Nitrite & oxygen and excrete Nitrate. Although the Nitrite itself isn't all that harmful, it's a serious failure of the nitrogen cycle.

It will work itself out but you will have to back off the ammonia.

Just for future reference, ammonia is also toxic to the bacteria you are trying to grow so more is NOT better. In my opinion, the ideal ammonia level to grow bacteria for the nitrogen cycle is a steady 0.25ppm. This is a very low level that is harmless to nitrifying bacteria and yet high enough that they can grow and reproduce.

I had no idea, I only dumped the ammonia once... 1/4 cup of it. I assumed first ammonia, then nitrite, then nitrate.... What can I do to get things back on track...water change???

 

[bang guy]

1/4 cup of ammonia Holy Cow!!

What do you have in the tank now? Any live rock or live sand?

If it were me I would start with a 100% water change and then follow a slower version of cycling.

 

[bang guy]

Let's put the amount of ammonia in perspective. Opinions differ but I have the best long term success when I maintain an ammonia level of 0.25ppm while cycling a new tank.

That's 1 part ammonia to 4,000,000 parts water.

For a 30 gallon tank that comes to slightly less than 1/2 a drop of ammonia (I just did the math there are 1,751,040 drops in 30 gallons of water).

So, the proper dose from my perspective would be to add one drop of ammonia to a cup of water and add 1/2 a cup of the mixture to the tank. I would do this once a day until ammonia either hits 0.5ppm (skip a day) or goes to zero (start adding a full drop of ammonia).

 

[flower]

1/4 cup of ammonia Holy Cow!!

What do you have in the tank now? Any live rock or live sand?

If it were me I would start with a 100% water change and then follow a slower version of cycling.

Thanks, I can swap out the water today, I won't break down the entire tank and do 100%, but I can get it to the last 4 inches of water at least. Then could I leave it alone to finish cycling with what is on the surface of stuff already in there?

I have no live rock, I wanted the tank sterile because it's for seahorses, I don't want, nor need any critters I don't add myself by choice. I plan to seed the tank with amphipods, copepods and small brittles later on. I used dry aragonite sand, two large dry seashells with spikes for hitches, and two resin root looking decorations for height. I do have macroalgae in there, and a bubble line, with two HOB filters to move the water.

 

[flower]

UPDATE:
The 30g is finally CYCLED...YAYYYY! I plan to wait for this weekend after Yom Kippur, and get the horses into the new digs ASAP... I have to go to the store for vinegar. Then I have to get the chiller cleared of all bristle worms that may be living in it.

The plan:
I will run it 24 hours in vinegar and water from a bucket ...and then rinse, rinse, rinse it with clear well water. After that, run RO water in the bucket, for a final rinse...then run the hose to the sink to allow the RO freshwater to be replaced by new mixed saltwater from my bucket, letting it get full of SW before adding it to the new digs...then comes the clean up of the 56g. It should be fun trying to catch the pipefish, he's a quick one.

 

[bang guy]

A small amount of vinegar in the system is harmless so don't think you need to remove all traces of the vinegar.