Starting a saltwater tank

I am wanting to start up a 55 gallon saltwater tank. I could really use some pointers as to what I need to get started. I've had freshwater tanks for years and really want to start up salt water but need some suggestions on prepping the tank, setting it up, what to buy/what not to buy, and maintaining the tank. Thanks for the help!
 

silverado61

Well-Known Member
There is a great thread in the new hobbyists section by snakeblitz that's gives tons of pointers for beginners. Its an awesome read.

I bumped it to the top of the list to make it easy to find.

My advice? Read that from beginning to end, then come back here and ask your questions.
 
Last edited:

flower

Well-Known Member
I am wanting to start up a 55 gallon saltwater tank. I could really use some pointers as to what I need to get started. I've had freshwater tanks for years and really want to start up salt water but need some suggestions on prepping the tank, setting it up, what to buy/what not to buy, and maintaining the tank. Thanks for the help!

Hi,

Welcome to the site! First what you need is a good beginners book. I also had done freshwater for years before going to saltwater, unfortunately the only help knowing freshwater first will do, is help you understand what a cycle is... saltwater tanks are a whole new world.

Once you read the beginners book, you will have the basics and know what questions to ask. "Saltwater Aquariums for Dummies" was the first book I read, and it was great for explaining things in simple to understand English.

A 55g tank is a very small saltwater tank, LOL...it was considered a big tank for freshwater. A 75g would be a much better choice.

Basic list of equipment needed:
  • Saltwater test kit (master kits are less expensive)
  • Set your tank about 8 inches from the wall, it seems like a big space at first, but believe me, you will be glad you did it. HOB skimmers take up 5 inches of space, HOB filters, hoses and all kinds of stuff... you need to be able to maneuver back there.
  • RO (reverse Osmosis) water. Never use tap water...Walmart sells it for 37 cents a gallon, or you can go to any large grocery store with a refill station. Water quality is the very life of your SW tank, and water to fill it is not the place to cut corners.
  • Salt mix, and a small utility power head, to churn the mix 24 hours before you put the new mixed saltwater into the tank. A new plastic garbage can (mark it FISH ONLY)...A container will be used for mixing water for water changes for the duration you keep a SW tank.
  • Refractometer or hydrometer
  • Heater...Set it at 78
  • You can use any type of filter EXCEPT the under gravel one. Sump is the best choice, nest best is the canister, a hang on the back (HOB) works great, and is very easy to maintain, but it causes splash... and splash means salt creep..
  • Live reef sand is best, live bacteria loaded "live" sand is next on the list, dry aragonite sand down from that. Crushed coral is very hard for your fish to live with, many SW critters dig, and the cleaners can't do a good job to keep it clean. Unlike freshwater...the saltwater cleaners actually do their job super well. Gone are the days of breaking down the tank to clean everything. In my opinion it's the biggest perk of keeping a SW tank.
  • Live rock is needed. You can use dry base rock on the lower sections, but you need at least a little live rock to seed the dry stuff. Build your rock about 1/2 up the tank. Make sure you put the rock in first and put the sand around it. You can't build on shifting sand, a rock slide can kill your critters or break the tank.. Leave the sides and front with enough room to be able to clean the glass later on with a mag float.
  • You need a light, SW tanks stay open, you can't use a hood like you do on freshwater tanks. Fish only...a T5HO will work fine, if you want corals, then the heavy duty powerful lights from LEDs to Metal halides.
  • At least 2 power heads, there is less oxygen in saltwater, the waves are the life of the ocean, and your SW tank. You don't use air lines in a SW tank, unless you plan to keep seahorses. Even then...no air stone.
  • Macroalgae will help to cycle your tank, and keep the water pristine. Check out a site called "GOLF COAST ECOSYSTEMS"

Now...when it comes time to do that first cycle...the rocks are set, the sand is in... DO NOT USE A LIVE FISH. Pure ammonia (found in any laundry isle in a grocery store). Make sure it's PURE...or use a chunk of raw shrimp in a piece of nylon stocking...or ghost feed an invisible fish, flake food. Pure ammonia is the fastest since you don't have to wait for the shrimp or food to rot and build ammonia.

That's about it for now...I don't want to over tax you with information. Setting up a quarantine tank at the same time you set up your display, is the smartest thing to do. A QT is very easy...no sand, just an air line (no Stone)...a piece of PVC pipe or plastic décor for the fish to hide, use a rubberband to attach the air line to the PVC to hold it down. Use a small HOB filter. Paint the bottom outside with a dark color, or put it on a towel on the stand or table under it. A 10g to 20g tank is fine. Again cycle it with the pure ammonia, shrimp or ghost feed.

Hope that helps!
 
Last edited:
I was told that if I have plenty of live rock in the tank that I don't actually need to run my filters (I have 2 marineland penguin 350s). I should only run them to keep the water movement. What is your opinions on this? Why will hood LED lights not work?. thanks for all the help!
 

flower

Well-Known Member
I was told that if I have plenty of live rock in the tank that I don't actually need to run my filters (I have 2 marineland penguin 350s). I should only run them to keep the water movement. What is your opinions on this? Why will hood LED lights not work?. thanks for all the help!
Hi,

There is less oxygen in SW then fresh, gas exchange is super important. A top would hinder the amount of fresh air flowing over the top of the tank. You also must have power heads to churn the water and create a current to spread that needed oxygen throughout the tank, the two HOB filters are good for filtering the large stuff that is in the tank, and good bacteria to grow on the sponge...it's water fall affect may move the surface a little, but it is not enough for water flow. LED lighting will have a protective glass over the lights, but it will have legs to hold it off the surface of the water. I'm talking about the glass sealed tops made for freshwater tanks, those are not appropriate for SW systems.

An established system that's been up and running for years has enough live critters in the rock and sand to handle the bio-load of the fish. Some people are good enough to upkeep their tank to the point of not needing a mechanical filter... that isn't the case with new tanks. it will take at least a year for the tank to mature....then you need at least a skimmer to remove organic matter from the water. The only thing a filter would be doing at that point is collect the large particles that float in the water and make it look clean.

HTH
 
ok so I know im asking a lot of questions but lets say I wanted to set my tank up today, I have the 2 marineland penguin 350 filter systems, an 80 gal heater, and I have the 2 LED hoods (I know I will have to upgrade those to no hood), what equipment would I need to buy to finish setting it up? I appreciate all the help!
 

silverado61

Well-Known Member
Did you by any chance read SnakeBlitz's thread yet? Again, that will give you a great start on the basics of what you need to know.
People will give you all kinds of different advice on what you should or shouldn't do. Myself included.
I'm not saying its wrong, but on the other side of the coin, I'm not saying its right. Its just what works for us. No tank is exactly the same. So no setup or equipment list will be exactly the same.
Some would say a certain peice of equipment is the best. Some would say dont go anywhere near it. Its just an opinion based on personal experience. Some of us swear by metal halide lights. Personaly metal halides produce too much heat and use a lot of electricity so i stick with LEDs. Once again, its just my opinion. You have to do your research and draw your own conclusions based on what will work for you.
But, there are basic guidelines that we do follow. We may take different approaches for those guidelines, but we still follow them.
SnakeBlitz's thread will help give you those guidelines. It really is an awesome read. But that's just my opinion.
 

beaslbob

Well-Known Member
I am wanting to start up a 55 gallon saltwater tank. I could really use some pointers as to what I need to get started. I've had freshwater tanks for years and really want to start up salt water but need some suggestions on prepping the tank, setting it up, what to buy/what not to buy, and maintaining the tank. Thanks for the help!
One thing to consider is macro algaes.

What I did in my old 55g was cram in a 1/4" plastic grid (lighting diffuser/egg crate) from home depot/lowes 3" in front of the back glass.

I then added 2 4' 2 tube cheapie flourescent shop lights behind the tank pointing forward.

the plastic grid was $11 and lights with tubes was around $30.

And then added macro algaes (chaetomorphia, caulerpa prolifera, grape caulerpa) between the back glass and plastic grid.

That this did was form a protected area for the macros to thrive (and pods also) away from the fish in front.

So the system was blanced out by the macros (which are plant life) to consume the fish wastes and return fish food (pods and macros) plus oxygen.

By doing that you don't need live rock live sand and so on.

The tank just takes care of itself and my tangs were constantly picking at (eating) the macros that poked through the partition.

And the other fish enjoyed the pods as well.

I also did no water changes and in 9 years only used 3 55g bags of salt.

Just a thought for you consideration.

worth at most .02
 

flower

Well-Known Member
ok so I know im asking a lot of questions but lets say I wanted to set my tank up today, I have the 2 marineland penguin 350 filter systems, an 80 gal heater, and I have the 2 LED hoods (I know I will have to upgrade those to no hood), what equipment would I need to buy to finish setting it up? I appreciate all the help!
Live rock and sand, a master test kit, salt mix and reverse osmosis (RO) water to fill the tank (don't use tap or well water). A refractometer, or hydrometer to make sure the SG (Water saltiness) is within safe range. 2 power heads to move the water and create the needed water current. Saltwater mixing tub ( I use a large plastic garbage can, marked FISH ONLY) A utility power head to churn the salt in the container for 24 hours before you can use it. A method of introducing ammonia into the tank to kick start the cycle (please do not use a live fish).

Having your own RO unit is best, but you can buy RO water from any large grocery store with a refill station. Once you add the ammonia it's a waiting game. Test only for ammonia at first, doing other tests at this point is just wasting them. Once you see ammonia, and then it drops back to a 0 reading...THEN test for nitrites, once that drops to 0...test ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. If you have nitrates, and 0 on the other two, the tank is cycled. If the nitrates are above 10, do a small water change. Your tank would then be ready for ONE fish..

Some basic info you need to know:
Water evaporates, but salt does not. To maintain the SG, you need to keep the water line the same. We add FRESH RO water each evening to the tank, filling it back to the original water line, this is called topping off.

Once a month do a 3% water change. Example: I have a 90g tank, so monthly I remove 30gs of water, and replace what I have removed with new mixed saltwater. If you do a daily or weekly water change, it doesn't need to be so much at one time. One lady does a gallon a day, and her tank is beautiful. She just keeps mixed saltwater in her container, and swaps out a gallon each morning before going to work.

Important to understand: The best thing to do is set up a quarantine tank at the same time you set up your display. A 10g or 20g tank, no rock or sand...a HOB filter and an airline (no Stone). paint the bottom outside of the tank a dark color, or place the tank on a dark surface or towel. A piece of PVC pipe or tank decoration (for the fish to hide and feel safe)...attach the airline via rubberband to the décor to hold it down...this is enough water flow to keep a new fish alive for 4 weeks while you watch it for signs of parasites or disease.

SW ich is not like freshwater ich... Gone are the days of a little fizzy tab dumped into the tank to cure them all. SW ich, is a parasite that will kill your fish, and SW fish are much more expensive then freshwater ones... if it gets into the display the only way to be rid of it, is to leave the tank without any fish in it for 6 to 8 weeks. It's very hard to remove all of your fish to quarantine to clear your tank...an ounce of prevention is worth the pound of cure in this case. All fish are stressed when they first arrive to your house in a bag. Stressed fish are very susceptible to the parasite. If it is present in the fish stores water (the usual case), your new fish was infected when you brought it home, and it will show up within a few weeks... it needs to be cured of the parasite before it goes into the display.

So putting all new fish into quarantine, is the smart thing to do. You can only add one fish at a time, then you must wait for the good bacteria to rebuild and handle the extra bio-load. A quarantine tank will ensure you go slow, and add weeks between adding new fish. The most common mistake that leads to a crash for beginners, is adding too many fish too soon.

I hope I didn't over tax you with information, I tried to keep it very simple. This is an expensive hobby, you will save so much money if you quarantine all new fish. Also remember that while inverts such as snails and shrimp that make up your CUC (clean up crew) are immune to marine ich, the water they come in could be contaminated. I float the bag, then using a NEW turkey baster (mark it fish only)...I remove a little bag water to a drain, and replace it with some water from the display (repeat every 20 minutes), until only display water is in the bag. THEN I net the critter (shrimp) or grab it with my hand (snails) and dump it into the tank. some folks just quarantine EVERYTHING for 4 weeks.

Everyone has their own methods, I have only explained to you mine.
 
Should i add all my live rock at once?
Whats the best way to place my powerheads?
If i dont have room for a quarantine what can i do?
Do i need a over flow box?
Do i need a sump/refugium?

Is this everything I would need to get started?
Refractometer
Sand
Salt Mix
Live Rock
RO/DI System
2 Powerheads
Master Test Kit

Water mixing tub
Powerhead

Someone told me I need a protein skimmer to get started, is this true?
 
Last edited:

mauler

Active Member
You can add it all at once if you want. You want the powerheads to cause surface agitation and make a current over your rock to keep detritus suspended in the water to get sucked up by your filtration.
If you can't set up a QT then your pretty much gambling every time you add a fish to your tank.
You don't need an overflow if your not doing a sump and you don't have to do a sump/refugium.
 
Top