Help getting started

[Vurtox]

Hi I'm new here, I just wanted to know what protein skimmer I should get for a 135 gallon tank (36" x 48" x 18") and also what other equipment I should get. I'm just starting out and I'm willing to spend about $5,000. There are no saltwater stores around my town so I'll have to order everything online. I'd like to know how much live sand I'll need, how much live rock, what type of water etcetera. I made a thread on another forum but no one responded and I think the admin deleted it. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks.

 

[flower]

Hi, welcome to the site!

2 inches of sand, live reef sand is best, the next down would be live sand (it's just loaded with good bacteria), then dry aragonite sand. You don't want to use crushed coral, it's hard on the critters that like to dig, and the CUC (clean up crew of snails and such) have a hard time keeping crushed coral clean.

You need enough live rock to build half way up the back of the tank, make sure it's built on the bare bottom and sand around it, you can't build on shifting sand. A rock slide could kill a critter or break the tank. Many SW critters dig, so make sure it's all very stable. Make some caves, just make sure it's stable. You can use base rock on the bottom and use live rock on top to save some money. You can also use décor with a mix of live rock, that's what I do.

I don't know if you have a sump system or not, so I don't know what type of skimmer you would need. I know it may be a little more expensive to order everything on-line, but you can get a better variety of equipment. I have 4 major fish stores around me, and I always order on-line...including ordering my fish.

Now is the time to plan the type of SW tank...reef...fish only...a certain type of fish, like seahorses. You need to build the tank that your desired outcome should be. Pick your all time must have critter, and build everything around that. You should also set up a quarantine tank at this time, so everything can cycle at the same time.

We are happy to walk you through... but a good "how to" book will help you to know what questions to ask, and explain the basics.

 

[beaslbob]

Hi I'm new here, I just wanted to know what protein skimmer I should get for a 135 gallon tank (36" x 48" x 18") and also what other equipment I should get. I'm just starting out and I'm willing to spend about $5,000. There are no saltwater stores around my town so I'll have to order everything online. I'd like to know how much live sand I'll need, how much live rock, what type of water etcetera. I made a thread on another forum but no one responded and I think the admin deleted it. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks.

Welcome to site.

What I recommend is you simply start the tank with macro algaes (cheatomorphia or various caulerpas) right from the start and then do the rest. Best to protect the macros in some kind of refugium if only a simple partition to the fish won't eat the macros.

The idea is that with the macros just about everything else is secondary. Rocks do not have to be live rocks. Sand does not have to be live sand. Skimmers are unnecessary as are most other type of filters as will. My old 55g ran for 9 years with none of those with a heavy bioload, easy type corals and not even water changes. Yet nitrates and phosphates were unmeasureable.

So I would take all that money saved and simply buy a bigger tank. With $5,000 that should be a good size.


Still that is all just my .02

 

[flower]

Welcome to site.

What I recommend is you simply start the tank with macro algaes (cheatomorphia or various caulerpas) right from the start and then do the rest. Best to protect the macros in some kind of refugium if only a simple partition to the fish won't eat the macros.

The idea is that with the macros just about everything else is secondary. Rocks do not have to be live rocks. Sand does not have to be live sand. Skimmers are unnecessary as are most other type of filters as will. My old 55g ran for 9 years with none of those with a heavy bioload, easy type corals and not even water changes. Yet nitrates and phosphates were unmeasureable.

So I would take all that money saved and simply buy a bigger tank. With $5,000 that should be a good size.


Still that is all just my .02

I agree 100%

 

[Vurtox]

Hi, welcome to the site!

2 inches of sand, live reef sand is best, the next down would be live sand (it's just loaded with good bacteria), then dry aragonite sand. You don't want to use crushed coral, it's hard on the critters that like to dig, and the CUC (clean up crew of snails and such) have a hard time keeping crushed coral clean.

You need enough live rock to build half way up the back of the tank, make sure it's built on the bare bottom and sand around it, you can't build on shifting sand. A rock slide could kill a critter or break the tank. Many SW critters dig, so make sure it's all very stable. Make some caves, just make sure it's stable. You can use base rock on the bottom and use live rock on top to save some money. You can also use décor with a mix of live rock, that's what I do.

I don't know if you have a sump system or not, so I don't know what type of skimmer you would need. I know it may be a little more expensive to order everything on-line, but you can get a better variety of equipment. I have 4 major fish stores around me, and I always order on-line...including ordering my fish.

Now is the time to plan the type of SW tank...reef...fish only...a certain type of fish, like seahorses. You need to build the tank that your desired outcome should be. Pick your all time must have critter, and build everything around that. You should also set up a quarantine tank at this time, so everything can cycle at the same time.

We are happy to walk you through... but a good "how to" book will help you to know what questions to ask, and explain the basics.

Thank you! First, I'd like to start it out as a reef tank for a few months to let everything cycle then get the desired fish. Right now I am having trouble finding the proper protein skimmer for 135 gallon. What is the recommended gallons per hour for this? I just want to focus on getting all of the equipment first and then start ordering live rock, sand etc. The tank alone is $1,500 without the stand and I can see this is going to be a pretty spendy hobby in the long run. Thanks for the replies guys!

 

[Vurtox]

Welcome to site.

What I recommend is you simply start the tank with macro algaes (cheatomorphia or various caulerpas) right from the start and then do the rest. Best to protect the macros in some kind of refugium if only a simple partition to the fish won't eat the macros.

The idea is that with the macros just about everything else is secondary. Rocks do not have to be live rocks. Sand does not have to be live sand. Skimmers are unnecessary as are most other type of filters as will. My old 55g ran for 9 years with none of those with a heavy bioload, easy type corals and not even water changes. Yet nitrates and phosphates were unmeasureable.

So I would take all that money saved and simply buy a bigger tank. With $5,000 that should be a good size.


Still that is all just my .02

The 135 gallon I want to get is pretty much perfect for where it's going. I have to keep it out of direct sunlight right? Also, would you recommend glass over acrylic?

 

[Vurtox]

Oh I almost forgot! Sorry about the posts but what type of lighting would you recommend for 36" height and 48" length 18" width? I know there are different kelvin don't know if higher is better. Thanks in advance everyone!

 

[mauler]

Oh I almost forgot! Sorry about the posts but what type of lighting would you recommend for 36" height and 48" length 18" width? I know there are different kelvin don't know if higher is better. Thanks in advance everyone!

The Kelvin value isn't really that important when choosing lights but you do want them somewhere between 8000K and 14000K. What you really want is the par and pur value of the light

 

[mauler]

The 135 gallon I want to get is pretty much perfect for where it's going. I have to keep it out of direct sunlight right? Also, would you recommend glass over acrylic?

You don't necessarily have to keep it out of direct sunlight if you have a way to keep the temperature stable. as far as glass or acrylic goes they say acrylic is clearer but it scratches easier and costs more.

 

[mauler]

Thank you! First, I'd like to start it out as a reef tank for a few months to let everything cycle then get the desired fish. Right now I am having trouble finding the proper protein skimmer for 135 gallon. What is the recommended gallons per hour for this? I just want to focus on getting all of the equipment first and then start ordering live rock, sand etc. The tank alone is $1,500 without the stand and I can see this is going to be a pretty spendy hobby in the long run. Thanks for the replies guys!

Your better with a skimmer rated for atleast twice your tank so maybe one rated for 200g

 

[flower]

You don't necessarily have to keep it out of direct sunlight if you have a way to keep the temperature stable. as far as glass or acrylic goes they say acrylic is clearer but it scratches easier and costs more.

Hi,

Direct sunlight will breed nuisance algae, it has nothing to do with temperatures. If you have near perfect parameters (not easy to manage on a new set up) the algae can't grow without some nasty in the tank for it to feed on. But if you have any phosphates, nitrates, nitrites or ammonia... In direct sunlight, the nuisance algae (hair algae being the worst) will grow like crazy overtaking everything.

 

[beaslbob]

The 135 gallon I want to get is pretty much perfect for where it's going. I have to keep it out of direct sunlight right? Also, would you recommend glass over acrylic?

Yes get glass.

the problem with sunlight is that it will 1) heat up the tank and 2) the sunlight is so bright that you will have algae and cloudy water problems.

But if properly balanced out (with macros) some sunlight can be tollerated. Especially if you could cover the tank (or window) for awhile from time to time.

That's direct sunlight. that ole 55g of mine got indirect sunlight for hours each day. It was on a back facing north porch with three outside walls and a north side screen.

 

[Vurtox]

Thanks everyone for your input! I don't know what macros are, I don't even want to think about anything else other than the equipment right now. As far as lighting, water, what would you all recommend for this tank?



http://customaquariums.com/p-86-135-gallon-glass-aquarium-36h-x-48l-x-18d.aspx

 

[flower]

Check out GOLF COIAST ECOSYSTEMS, macroalgae are saltwater plants, for lack of a better way to say it. They absorb the nasty stuff in the water (ammonia, nitrates, nitrites and phosphates) to be able to grow, in doing so, it cleans the water to pristine quality. It's the natural way to do all the things that we have equipment for, with it in the tank, you won't need a skimmer, or a phosphate reactor, and you can even get away with lax water changes.

Equipment can run you any where from $300.00 to $800.00, the cost of macroalgae...$10.00 a pint, and because it grows, you only need that one first pint to have all the macroalgae you will ever need. There are green, red and yellow macros, which adds color to the rock in a fish only system. Then there are macros that free float and are not attached that we can just keep in a refugium, then it isn't even seen, it just stays in the refugium doing it's job.

There is really only one drawback, fish eat it up... that's why there are macros to keep in the refugium away from the fish. There are also macros that fish just don't consider tasty.

 

[beaslbob]

Thanks everyone for your input! I don't know what macros are, I don't even want to think about anything else other than the equipment right now. As far as lighting, water, what would you all recommend for this tank?



http://customaquariums.com/p-86-135-gallon-glass-aquarium-36h-x-48l-x-18d.aspx

I know I know

I went through the same thing starting my old 55g. And had numerous problems until someone mentioned macros. Meanwhile the LFSs were more the willing to sell live rock, filters, expensive lights and so on. Flower is absolutely correct. The dirty little secret is free-$10 worth of macros will do more, make the tank more stable, and easier to maintain then $100's-$1,000's worth of all the other stuff.

Just can't emphasize enough. Get the macros first. Then worry about all the rest.

my .02

 

[dangerfish]

welcome to the hobby

 

[Gary Mason]

Welcome to site.

What I recommend is you simply start the tank with macro algaes (cheatomorphia or various caulerpas) right from the start and then do the rest. Best to protect the macros in some kind of refugium if only a simple partition to the fish won't eat the macros.

The idea is that with the macros just about everything else is secondary. Rocks do not have to be live rocks. Sand does not have to be live sand. Skimmers are unnecessary as are most other type of filters as will. My old 55g ran for 9 years with none of those with a heavy bioload, easy type corals and not even water changes. Yet nitrates and phosphates were unmeasureable.

So I would take all that money saved and simply buy a bigger tank. With $5,000 that should be a good size.


Still that is all just my .02

Sorry for jumping in here...but I am interested to learn about the micro and macro algae you are talking about...can you point me in a direction to learn about those?

 

[mauler]

They work as a natural way of filtering your tank by removing phosphate and nitrate. They have display macros to add color and a more natural look to your tank . Just check out gulf coast ecosystems.

 

[Gary Mason]

Awesome,I will check them out, thanks!

 

[Vurtox]

I'll keep you all posted when I get my tank. It might be a while but I'm very excited!