That's the basics. I need a booster pump I thinks pegasus.
My water is going through a 10 micron sediment I think. Than a carbon block followed by a small ed carbon block. Than ro and and di. Mines a 5 yr old typhoon reef keeper I think from air water and ice. The hose adapter I like but gotta bring bring in during the winter.
D
While a booster pump will help with production, it's not required on 50 or 75 gallon per day units. If yours is a 100 or 150 gallon per day unit, then a booster is necessary. I have a 100 GPD unit, and the water pressure in my house tested at 37 PSI. Even now, the gauge on my unit stays on 37 PSI when it's not running. With the (up to 100 PSI) booster pump, it's usually operating at 75 PSI when it's processing water. It will work without the booster pump, but water production is very slow, and there is three times as much waste water. With the booster pump, it makes clean water twice as fast, and reduces the waste water by about 66%.
I bought a "tee" and connected my RO/DI to the cold water line under my sink between the water shutoff valve and the faucet. This way, I can turn the water off if I need to work on the tube going to the RO/DI. I also have another shutoff valve at the RO/DI so I can turn off the water when I need to change the filters or DI resin. This is my RO/DI system (in basement) after I replaced all the cheap stuff with quality parts. The blue/white product line (tube going down) has a tee on it. One side of the tee has a tube that goes to my ATO in the refugium (below and left of RO/DI), and the other side of the tee has a tube that goes to my 30 gallon mixing vat (below RO/DI). There is a float valve in the mixing vat to turn off the water when it gets full, and there is also a shutoff valve outside of the mixing vat that I can turn off if I need to remove the vat for cleaning. I have 2 dual TDS meters so I can check the TDS going into the unit (source line), after the sediment/charcoal filters, after the RO membrane, and after the DI resin.
