Just ordered a maxspect gyre 130 for the 90G

chrisely24

Member
I'll post when I get it in later next week. Tank is bare empty except for water maybe throw in a few Bio-balls to see how the flow is.
 

pegasus

Well-Known Member
I'll post when I get it in later next week. Tank is bare empty except for water maybe throw in a few Bio-balls to see how the flow is.
I watched a video of the display at MACNA where they had a tank set up with colored balls floating in a gyre motion around the tank. It moved the water very well. The only issue I have with the demo is that it's in a completely empty tank. I would like to see a demo with a normal aquascape setup to see how it flows with rocks. The suggestion was made to use two opposing gyres set up for random flow to keep things stirred up. Linear flow is okay for FOWLR tanks, but corals require random, often turbid flow. The cost of two Maxspect gyres is a bit steep for my budget, so there'll have to be some very impressive demos to convince me to dish out that kind of money. I'm not knocking them, because it's a very nice design, but I'll need a lot more convincing that it's what I need for my tank...
 

chrisely24

Member
Supposedly it comes with another set of blades and you can use 2 of the same ones to have a push pull effect.

I wont know how it will work for a while I will be buying my LR a few pieces at a time.
 

geridoc

Well-Known Member
I watched a video of the display at MACNA where they had a tank set up with colored balls floating in a gyre motion around the tank. It moved the water very well. The only issue I have with the demo is that it's in a completely empty tank. I would like to see a demo with a normal aquascape setup to see how it flows with rocks. The suggestion was made to use two opposing gyres set up for random flow to keep things stirred up. Linear flow is okay for FOWLR tanks, but corals require random, often turbid flow. The cost of two Maxspect gyres is a bit steep for my budget, so there'll have to be some very impressive demos to convince me to dish out that kind of money. I'm not knocking them, because it's a very nice design, but I'll need a lot more convincing that it's what I need for my tank...
I couldn't agree more - most corals will completely change their growth pattern when exposed to unidirectional flow. The cost of 2 gyre units is presently prohibitive, given the alternatives, which work well.
 

pegasus

Well-Known Member
I couldn't agree more - most corals will completely change their growth pattern when exposed to unidirectional flow. The cost of 2 gyre units is presently prohibitive, given the alternatives, which work well.
+1.
 

chrisely24

Member
LoL, I guess only time will tell how it works out.

I finally got enough Ro/Di water ran to fill the tank and sump. I turned on the used return pump that came with the sump and had to bang it a few times to get it started. (Not a good sign)
Must be one heck of a pump it was moving way too much water in the tank even with the nozzle pointing down it was shooting water out of the tank. Plus, it sounded like a small jet engine inside the stand.

The Pump has no brand name but i think it is a danner mag drive. (e160713 45w .8 amps is all that is written on it)
I had a CA1800 pump laying around and I hooked that up instead, seems to be working ok and is very quiet. I calculated the GPH and it is right around 6.5 turnover rate.

I might have to look in to getting another for a bit more turnover rate.
 

pegasus

Well-Known Member
The Pump has no brand name but i think it is a danner mag drive. (e160713 45w .8 amps is all that is written on it)
I had a CA1800 pump laying around and I hooked that up instead, seems to be working ok and is very quiet. I calculated the GPH and it is right around 6.5 turnover rate.
Sounds like you've got a Danner Supreme Model 5: http://www.dannermfg.com/Store/Products/Danner/PID-02515.aspx. You can use this pump if you install a gate valve on the return line to adjust the flow. The Model 5 pushes 425 GPH @ 3', and you can easily reduce it by 100+ GPH with a valve. I love Danner pumps, and run Classic Supreme pumps exclusively (I have 6)... lol! 5 of the have been running non-stop over two years, and not a single failure. If the pump needs knocking to get it started and it's loud, it could probably use a new impeller. Check the shaft to see if it's warped, and inspect the magnet to see if it's swollen or cracked. Sometimes just a good cleaning will help.
 
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chrisely24

Member
Thanks, I will try cleaning it maybe that will help. I can always put a gate valve on it, I am using flexible tubing instead of PVC. I will check HD and see what type of valves they have that might have male ends on both sides and splice it in the middle of the tubing.
 

mandy111

Active Member
HI,@chrisely24
I was running one gyer 150 for a few weeks, and found I couldn't get the back and forth flow needed for the corals. All the corals were blowing in one direction, which they were not particularly liking, and we weren't either. It was not aesthetically very pleasing to the eye.

We tried all the different modes and still not happy, although the flow is incredibly strong, We were only on 30% and it was a massive water movement.
So we did have to buy another one, we have them either end of the tank, pulse mode, and now get the nice back and forth movement for the corals.

They are relatively cheap compared to the 4 x tunzes 6105 we were running, which with controller cost over $1500.
Although would have liked a little more control features.

Hope this helps.
 

pegasus

Well-Known Member
Supposedly it comes with another set of blades and you can use 2 of the same ones to have a push pull effect.

I wont know how it will work for a while I will be buying my LR a few pieces at a time.
That was another red flag for me. The reverse flow isn't nearly as strong as the forward flow, and it's directed downward at an angle. The strongest flow will always be the forward flow, which will easily overpower the reverse flow. No matter which setting you choose, a single unit will always create a gyre motion... as Mandy found out the hard way. I'm not trying to discourage you, but I wish we had discussed this prior to your purchase. What's done is done, and we'll just have to wait until the system is set up to see how it works out for you. Fingers crossed...
 

mandy111

Active Member
@pegasus is very correct. The reverse paddles are useless, I have to reverse mine at 90-100% and see very little flow.
In fact if it wasn't for the aesthetics of these units on a peninsular tank I probably would have not bought another and gone back to my 4 x tunze. The unit itself is much more pleasing to the eye and less obvious when looking at the tank, that's the only reason we like them.
 

novahobbies

Well-Known Member
I would like to see this in motion as well. At present I have a single WP-40 in my 110g tank, and it provides a good pulsing motion. I have been toying with getting a pair of linked RW-30s instead, or possibly a gyre. I just don't know....my wp-40 is working well, and I'm trying to use the KISS method of tank keeping lately!
 

pegasus

Well-Known Member
I would like to see this in motion as well. At present I have a single WP-40 in my 110g tank, and it provides a good pulsing motion. I have been toying with getting a pair of linked RW-30s instead, or possibly a gyre. I just don't know....my wp-40 is working well, and I'm trying to use the KISS method of tank keeping lately!
The RW-15 is the equivalent of the WP-40. If you're happy with the flow of the 40, you'll love a pair of RW-15's... although you may have to run them at less than full speed. I believe the RW-20 is the largest of the group, and a pair of those is far too much for a 110 gallon tank. They're rated for 150-300 gallon tanks each, so a pair will be major overkill. I have a pair of RW-8's in my 40 gallon breeder (3' tank), and I can only run them on the second lowest speed (2nd LED) or the water literally whitecaps. W1 on full speed will slosh water out of the tank. I plan to eventually move them to my 6' 125 gallon tank. Since the RW-8's flow up to 2000GPH each, they should move quite a bit more water than my Sicce Voyager 3's, which only move 1200GPH each. I have 4 Voyager 3's connected with a Wavemaster Pro in my 125, and I'm not completely satisfied with the strength of flow in the tank. I think the flow rate for the Sicce's was a bit over rated...
 

chrisely24

Member
@pegasus is very correct. The reverse paddles are useless, I have to reverse mine at 90-100% and see very little flow.
In fact if it wasn't for the aesthetics of these units on a peninsular tank I probably would have not bought another and gone back to my 4 x tunze. The unit itself is much more pleasing to the eye and less obvious when looking at the tank, that's the only reason we like them.
The stealth effect is what i was going for also, if I have to get another one for the other side of the tank i will. lol
 

chrisely24

Member
The RW-15 is the equivalent of the WP-40. If you're happy with the flow of the 40, you'll love a pair of RW-15's... although you may have to run them at less than full speed. I believe the RW-20 is the largest of the group, and a pair of those is far too much for a 110 gallon tank. They're rated for 150-300 gallon tanks each, so a pair will be major overkill. I have a pair of RW-8's in my 40 gallon breeder (3' tank), and I can only run them on the second lowest speed (2nd LED) or the water literally whitecaps. W1 on full speed will slosh water out of the tank. I plan to eventually move them to my 6' 125 gallon tank. Since the RW-8's flow up to 2000GPH each, they should move quite a bit more water than my Sicce Voyager 3's, which only move 1200GPH each. I have 4 Voyager 3's connected with a Wavemaster Pro in my 125, and I'm not completely satisfied with the strength of flow in the tank. I think the flow rate for the Sicce's was a bit over rated...
I have 1 Koralia 850 and 1 of the Sicce's in my 65 and the Koralia puts out way more than the Sicce does. Plus I think the Sicce's are ugly.
 

pegasus

Well-Known Member
I have 1 Koralia 850 and 1 of the Sicce's in my 65 and the Koralia puts out way more than the Sicce does. Plus I think the Sicce's are ugly.
I originally had four Koralia Evolution 1150's on a wavemaker in my 125, but the constant clacking they made on startup drove my wife and I crazy. I sold them and bought four Sicce Voyager 3's, as they were supposed to be a little stronger (1150 gph vs 1200 gph)... but that wasn't the case. The flow isn't nearly as strong or as wide as the Koralias, but they are 1000X quieter. The Koralias have a rubber bumper that bounces the blades in the right direction when they try to start in reverse (it happens a lot), and the bouncing of blades makes a terrible racket when you have four on a wavemaker. It's a common complaint by many people who use wavemakers. In constant mode, they're wonderful, but I need mixed flow in my tank to keep my corals happy and healthy. So far, I've been very happy with my four Jebao powerheads (2 WP-4's and 2 RW-8's). I've noticed that in a lot of the reviews of the RW series, people tend to compare them to the Vortech MP's. I don't think they're in the same class as the Vortechs, but they are a very affordable alternative. Some people like some of the features of the Jebaos that Vortechs don't have. I just like them because they're powerful, compact, affordable, offer different flow options, and they never start in reverse.
 
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