Nitrates
- Thread starter lmforbis
- Start date
beaslbob
Well-Known Member
yep
try forgoing the gfo, killing the lights (or reducing duration) in the display and see if the chaeto in the refugium takes off.
lmforbis
Well-Known Member
Maybe to stop competition between chaeto and hair algae by depriving hair algae of light allowing the chaeto to grow? Just a guess though.
I did find some of my chaeto in between the baffels between the fuge and the return. I pulled it out and it was still green. We'll see what happens. The hair algae in the 125 is starting to decrease after all the water changes I've done. but the nitrates are still really high. The 40 doesn't really have any algae anymore. Previously it had the worst case of hair algae I have ever seen. I figured it was the rock. Now it has cyano instead. It is also a much newer tank, only 5 months old. Nothing else goes into either tank until I get the nitrates down.
I did find some of my chaeto in between the baffels between the fuge and the return. I pulled it out and it was still green. We'll see what happens. The hair algae in the 125 is starting to decrease after all the water changes I've done. but the nitrates are still really high. The 40 doesn't really have any algae anymore. Previously it had the worst case of hair algae I have ever seen. I figured it was the rock. Now it has cyano instead. It is also a much newer tank, only 5 months old. Nothing else goes into either tank until I get the nitrates down.
IMO cheato is not so easy to die off. It will grow pretty prolifically in a stable reef system.
Sounds like you need to make sure you have good steady circulation throughout the tank. Ween off the canister.
If you have cyano, then that will acct for the advise to lower lighting; however, since you have corals, you really can't do that indefinitely.
Sounds like you need to make sure you have good steady circulation throughout the tank. Ween off the canister.
If you have cyano, then that will acct for the advise to lower lighting; however, since you have corals, you really can't do that indefinitely.
lmforbis
Well-Known Member
I appreciate all the input.
At this point I am going to allow the phosphates to increase a bit by limiting the GFO 1/4 the normal volume and changing media at least once a week with a thorough cleaning of the reactors to reduce ditritus build up. Hopefully this will allow the chaeto to grow better. If there is no improvement in 2-3 weeks I will turn them off entirely for a while and see what happens. I'll maintain increased waterchange volume and frequency. I have a new box of RC comming Monday so I'll be able to do that. I think that has helped but just not enough.
Circulation is very good, I have 2 overflows and about 800 gph going through the sump in the 125 and about 200 gph on the 40, any more and it is like river rapids. I have two Jaebo wave makers on the 125 (max output of 1200 gph each) and 2 800 gph power heads. The 40 has 2 Jaebo rw4 wave makers at about 3/4 power ( higher and the waves get too big).
I think I will also add some more rock in a few weeks, probably some pukani but it will need to cure first.
As a scientist, i need to take it slow, one or 2 variables at a time. I just can't make a bunch of changes and see if it works. I need to determine what helps by changing one or two things and measuring the response. This will tell me what is having an effect and what s not. I'll keep the changes that help.
At this point I am going to allow the phosphates to increase a bit by limiting the GFO 1/4 the normal volume and changing media at least once a week with a thorough cleaning of the reactors to reduce ditritus build up. Hopefully this will allow the chaeto to grow better. If there is no improvement in 2-3 weeks I will turn them off entirely for a while and see what happens. I'll maintain increased waterchange volume and frequency. I have a new box of RC comming Monday so I'll be able to do that. I think that has helped but just not enough.
Circulation is very good, I have 2 overflows and about 800 gph going through the sump in the 125 and about 200 gph on the 40, any more and it is like river rapids. I have two Jaebo wave makers on the 125 (max output of 1200 gph each) and 2 800 gph power heads. The 40 has 2 Jaebo rw4 wave makers at about 3/4 power ( higher and the waves get too big).
I think I will also add some more rock in a few weeks, probably some pukani but it will need to cure first.
As a scientist, i need to take it slow, one or 2 variables at a time. I just can't make a bunch of changes and see if it works. I need to determine what helps by changing one or two things and measuring the response. This will tell me what is having an effect and what s not. I'll keep the changes that help.
novahobbies
Well-Known Member
When I was running GFO heavily, I could NEVER keep chaeto alive. Yes, it's very possible for GFO to strip the phosphates bare and keep you from using chaeto as an export source. How much GFO are you running? swapping out your GFO every 6 weeks is good if you're actively trying to strip PO4, but it's a but much if you're just maintaining a level. You could probably go to 8 weeks (while testing) and even POSSIBLY 10 weeks.
I don't think your reactors are causing a nitrate sink. Beth is completely correct that canister filters have this issue, but if you're cleaning the reactors as often as you said, this shouldn't ever be an issue. I would first look to the source water. Your RODI may show 0 tdi, but nitrates won't show on a TDI meter. Make a batch of fresh salt water and test THAT before you add it to the tank. Once you rule that out, I think your best bet will be to get back on track with constant water changes once you heal up and have the ability to do them. Until then, have you considered an aquarium service? Most places will do water changes for a nominal charge, and it's worth every penny when you're laid up. I know the feeling, I had a period of a couple months during an injury when I had to use a buddy who runs a tank service in order to keep the water changes going.
novahobbies
Well-Known Member
THIS. Right here. If you could bottle this advise and sell it, you'd be a millionaire. One thing at a time, and rule each issue out. BTW, what's the status of the first chamber of your sump? Is it dirty down there, or do you siphon that area?
lmforbis
Well-Known Member
Freshly mixed salt water as well as straight RODI sho 0 nitrates.
I'm physically back to normal since mid December so I have been doing the frequent larger water changes. I really don't know where my nitrates were when I started. The new salifert test kit only goes to 100 and I was pretty close to that when I last tested on Friday. Presumably a lot higher.
My first chamber of my sump has very little collected on bottom. A little bit of carbon but that's about it. Both overflows dump into it and the skimmer puts a lot of water into it so it stays stirred up.
I'm physically back to normal since mid December so I have been doing the frequent larger water changes. I really don't know where my nitrates were when I started. The new salifert test kit only goes to 100 and I was pretty close to that when I last tested on Friday. Presumably a lot higher.
My first chamber of my sump has very little collected on bottom. A little bit of carbon but that's about it. Both overflows dump into it and the skimmer puts a lot of water into it so it stays stirred up.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
I run GFO in my systems about 90% of the time and I change the media out about once every 90 days. Occasionally I run the pump wide open so any organic debris will be flushed out.
GFO will kill off macroalgae. GFO absorbs phosphates, not nitrates, and your having a nitrate issue. I think I would keep doing regular frequent water changes and get rid of as much detritus as possible, then try a polyfilter to polish the remaining water and re-test.
GFO will kill off macroalgae. GFO absorbs phosphates, not nitrates, and your having a nitrate issue. I think I would keep doing regular frequent water changes and get rid of as much detritus as possible, then try a polyfilter to polish the remaining water and re-test.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Absorbs nitrates, organic debris, copper, heavy metals, etc. Polishes the water. It will change different colors depending on what is present in the system.
beaslbob
Well-Known Member
In the display. To favor the algae in the refugium
beaslbob
Well-Known Member
+1. More people need to take that approach
novahobbies
Well-Known Member
This discussion has made me look at the fist chamber of MY sump. I don't have a nitrate issue, but I haven't siphoned down there in a while, and.......YEESH. LOL
My chaeto is actually in the first chamber, and I think I know understand why it's been growing so well down there when I could never keep it alive in the second chamber. Lots of potential nitrate to absorb. ;-)
My chaeto is actually in the first chamber, and I think I know understand why it's been growing so well down there when I could never keep it alive in the second chamber. Lots of potential nitrate to absorb. ;-)
lmforbis
Well-Known Member
I have worked as a product development chemist for over 20 years. That is the only way that works for me.
lmforbis
Well-Known Member
An update on my nitrate situation.
Nitrates are still high but slowly coming down. They are typically at or around 50 now. When I started they were well above the max of 100 for the salifert test kit. I did shut down the reactors in one tank for 2 weeks and continued the larger water changes with no other differences in maintenance between the two tanks. The nitrates decreased in both but there was no difference between the one with the reactor and the one with out. My conclusion is the reactors are not the problem.
I didn't have a ton of rock in the tank so I also ordered another 25 pounds of pukani dry rock and cured it. I added the additional rock to the tanks along with some biopure media and rubble to the refugium to hopefully get some more anaerobic bacterial action. I haven't gotten more macro algae. It is too cold to order it now but will as soon as it warms up a little bit. Corals are looking much better and the hair algae is almost gone.
Nitrates are still high but slowly coming down. They are typically at or around 50 now. When I started they were well above the max of 100 for the salifert test kit. I did shut down the reactors in one tank for 2 weeks and continued the larger water changes with no other differences in maintenance between the two tanks. The nitrates decreased in both but there was no difference between the one with the reactor and the one with out. My conclusion is the reactors are not the problem.
I didn't have a ton of rock in the tank so I also ordered another 25 pounds of pukani dry rock and cured it. I added the additional rock to the tanks along with some biopure media and rubble to the refugium to hopefully get some more anaerobic bacterial action. I haven't gotten more macro algae. It is too cold to order it now but will as soon as it warms up a little bit. Corals are looking much better and the hair algae is almost gone.