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ilovemytank i posted on your thread. what made me a good canidate? i dont really wanna remove the sand. but there are a couple reasons why i am. i am adding custom overflows in. and laying it on its side would work the best. so the silicone can settled evenly. also i am going to have to replace...

leave the rock work like it is. i like the mountain look. corals will fill that nicely. i also like the carpet, and the sump/fuge setup. good stuff...

i was thinking just put the tote in the tub. let the water just keep running stir, stir, stir, stir, etc etc....with enough water running through it and stirring, i think this would clean this sand pritty good. or i can spend $120 on 120lbs of new sand........either way i go. after its rinsed or...

Originally Posted by Ilovemytank Put the sand in a bucket and pour water on it. Let it settle and then pour the water out. repeat pouring water in and physically stir up the sand with your hand. Let it settle again. then pour the water out. Each time you do it the water will be cleaner. There...

if i was to get new sand. can i add it all at once since it would be dead sand. or do i have to go little by little..... and do i have to do the same with the sand in the sump. should i also replace this too.....

maryg, not meaning to sound harsh, but im not paying or doing any type of drilling of the spare tank....this will only be a couple days time. so not wasting money on drilling, or on new bulkeheads, pvc, etc etc.... let me make this clear. i am not transfering everything from one tank to another...

the VHO are actinics not daylite. also with them being actinics my halides must be 10K. i dont like a tank thats too blue. so actinic VHO and 10K xm halides

Originally Posted by Ilovemytank Putting new sand doesn't start a cycle. A cycle is from die off of live rock. Purchased sand in the bag can be added in any amount and not cause a cycle. The problem with moving the sand comes from the release of all the nitrites and nitrates that is trapped and...

only question i got is. how do you rinse the sand????....what do you rinse it in????

thanks wolf, pics suck cause not used to camera yet. not a great camera but has potential...alot of work went into this tank. thanks for the comments even though the pics are bad....

as for flow, it goes like this...... 125DT= 30.4x turnover (currently) 20L= 65x turnover (currently) 29= 48.2x turnover (future build)

any tote would have a heater and a powerhead. and for the sand..not sure how to rinse it. and on top of that putting new sand in there would only cause a bigger cycle. that would defeat the purpose of this thread..90% of the rock has some type of coral on it. were talking 250lbs of rock....so...

my thing is with everything going into totes for a couple days then back to the tank. how devastating is this going to be. anybody with experience in this please post.... thanx saltfan....

i feel good about the fish, only fish i could see perish is the flame angel. but i have several fish that went through a move once b4. i think they can handle it...

thank you....

i know the method is outdated, thats why i stated rule of thumb idea...but you asked for it, so here it is. 125DT= 640w of VHO, 525w of MH (4x 72" 160w VHO + 3X 175w MH) 20L frag/nano= 150w of VHO, 70w MH (2x 24" 75w VHO + 1x 70w MH) i will soon be upgrading the 20L to a 29.... future 29DT=...

in a couple months from now, i am going to be redoing the inside of my house. in order to redo the living room, my tank of 2 years has to come down. its a 125DT. should be fun. not all negative though. when the tank is down electritian will be in here rewiring some things so the tank is on its...

how many watts per gallon should SPS have....just looking for a rule of thumb type answer. thank you

just some updates. i recently upgraded the koralia nano's with koralia #1's. nice flow for this tank. also looking to upgrade the halide from a 70w to a 150w....also will be changing the 10g sump to a 15g sump and adding a ETSS reef devil skimmer to the system....