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what ever happend to the great light setup you had is someone still using it. Do you hear from Spanko

agree about evaporation in a small HT evaporation can quickly raise your salinity

do you still get info on the ray you donated to the aquarium

good i am sure you know the procedure but this is a good read http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/hyposalinity/a/aahyposalinity.htm

Before you start either copper or hypo salinity you will need a test kit for the copper or a refractometer if you are doing hypo. Read up on both methods and there are many good companies that can supply all your needs on line

actually I was asking about your ummmm cat

First whatever site you were on that said ick starts at the gills don’t go there anymore. What kills fish infected with ick in many cases is that the sheer numbers of parasites impact the gills. The parasites are opportunistic they will attach anywhere they come in contact with the fish. Let’s...

You can introduce ick into your tank. A single parasite or much more depending on how many attach to the fish they can in fact fall off and not be killed by the immune system of the fish you feel safe BUT thery are just in another stage of their life cycle.

Could very well be the case I of all people know how hard it is to keep a RG. That’s why knowing how much medication was dosed is important

Are you using sand in your tank? Not all white spot parasites are ick. Just out of curiosity what makes you think it starts at the gills?

can we rule out everything else without knowing hows much was dosed

Are we not putting the cart before the horse? How much was introduced into the tank before we crucify

was the Melafix dosed correctly

Remember patience is your shimmer in your sump.

Not really sure how long you have been out of the hobby. You are right things have changed. I am not saying keeping corals is easy but it is much easier today than in the past. You may want to spend the money now on lighting to support easy coral keeping then have to upgrade later

We all know fish see colors. You can use this if you have a fish that scares easily when you approach the tank and hides at feeding time. If I approach my tank quickly my trigger will head for his rock safety. I introduce the food into my tank via a red cup. He has come to recognize the red cup...

If memory serves me right you feed enough to keep the water light green. Once you start you don’t want the water to turn clear

I am a person who has gone to battle with cyano many times. I have has great flow on areas that contained cyano and it still multiplied. It may be time to use a chemical agent to kill it.

Bang my old friend this is just like the good old days. totaly agree with you post especialy the PH swings which tie into is toxicity as it is related nitrites

Well we all agree nitrites are toxic. Now I’m new to the hobby I have a 29 gallon tank. I over load it with rock to start a cycle and for good measure i add a shrimp.. My ammonia is off the chart. Now it’s zero I check nitrates zero wow I am ready to go. I have no need to test nitrites. So in go...