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got a pic? thats really up to you, but i dont think itd be that unique at all. whats in demand are ice-fire echinatas. the ora hawkins also gets a nice deep blue tip with bright green base when its well taken cared of.

"Native to the reefs of Java, the Black Sailfin Blenny requires ample live rock with microalgae growth on which it can forage for food. This member of the Blenniidae family is an obligate microalgae eater, which means it needs microalgae in its diet in order to survive. However, its diet can be...

im talking you need 3w leds as EACH led would be 3w. tru lumen strips dont add anything in terms of PAR (measurable usable light). theres fixtures out there that use 1w leds but have 100+ leds on them which allow enough PAR to be made to make it reef capable.

ok, theyre not really gonna do anything for corals at all. if you were wanting leds that actually add some usable light, you would be looking at 3w leds or a large number of 1w leds (80+) to light it up sufficiently

what kind of leds are they? since theyre strips, i highly doubt theyll do anything for PAR. are you talking about stunner strips?

you can just contact vortech and ask them for the upgrade, i think theyll give you a discount as well

it wont kill it asap, but the bacteria will eventaully out compete it

i cant reply to pm's unless i use firefox

lol, looks like you got tired of the bland/common stuff you can find everywhere

dkh is fine where its at. salifert dkh measure ~2 lower than other test kits like API. this is because the salifert is measured for saltwater purposes and api is actually measuring for freshwater applications. but 8-9 is a good number for SPS. if u can take it out, you might be able to see if it...

try this http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2009-04/diy/index.php as for the true actinics, i wouldnt use them unless you had a 6 bulb set up. theyre very weak because theyre true actinics (420nm). the ATI blue+ are really blue (460nm) so its gonna give you that dawn/dusk effect but provided more...

the vodka will usually cause the chaeto to die, but should be fine until its in low in nutrients

ok then your dkh should roughly be ~10 according to other tests which is fine. did the clam get damaged in some way?

completely forgot about their one plug systems...in that case, check out the sun-blaze t5 as well as the coralvue/led combo fixture.

MB7 is a bacteria that brightwell cultured. many people swear that it is the right culture for carbon dosing. some people have even stated it only took them two weeks to cycle using MB7. i seeded my tank prior to using vodka and was succesful. my next go around, i will not seed and see the...

try upping your mag too. while its probably not related it will help keep stuff more stable. and what are you testing your dkh on, salifert?

im biting my lips just to get pass the 6 month mark for my wrasses lol

long term for this hobby usually means past 12 months. try calibrating your refractometer

its nutritious but it can easily cause an algae outbreak as well as darken the SPS too much. how long did u dip for. i would do at least 10 minutes and blow it with a turkey basterp to see if anyhting comes flying off. theres so many factors here, which is why im asking how they died. itll help...

you can hang it up higher to get more coverage in the tank. it should light it up fine if u raise it like 3" more. if not you can always do the 2 island lamp thing. how do you like the colors though? amazing isnt it