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Before you make any changes verify your ph reading. How are you testing for it? Most often the cause of low ph is high co2 in the room (house). Try taking a sample of the water and aerating it outside then testing the ph. If it raises (and it should) there is your problem. In this case, getting...

Originally Posted by Bang Guy I often hear hobbiest discuss what a pain it is to have to turn over their Astrea and Turbin Snails after they fall on the sand bed. To me this is an obvious problem of low Salinity. Snails do not just fall off the glass. I agree. This is definitely a sign of...

Originally Posted by Pyro I keep my S.G. at about 1.026. I think I'm going to lower it a bit because I'm using a swing arm hydrometer for measuring right now and I've heard its better to run a little lower (1.024-5). Most swing arm hydrometer are not temperature compensating, so you have to...

Originally Posted by Dmitry I've read in a few places that for FO tanks lower salinity boosts fish's immune system. Hmm.... I honestly never heard of this before. I think you cannot go wrong by keeping it NSW levels. I wouldn't try to improve on nature.

Originally Posted by lion_crazz Were you just throwing that in there or responding to what I said? lion_crazz, I was just throwing that in there. :)

It is doubtful that RO would bring your water to 0 ppm (or 0 uS/cm conductivity). If your water was 35 ppm, then a DI would bring down to 0. Basically the lower your RO brings the water, the longer the DI resin would last.

Hmm... A refugium populated with fish or other preditors won't be much of a 'refuge'.

Generally the rule of thumb is not to add what you cannot test for. That said, supplementing calcium and alkalinity as needed, along with sheduled water changes should be all you need.

Patience, patience, patience... Only bad things happens fast in reef keeping. Lot and lots of reading and researching. It never stops, which is what makes this such an interesting hobby. The web is great for that. Ask questions. If you are not sure or ignorant of something in particular, just...

Originally posted by msd2 W/a properly setup filter you should get TDS readings of 0-3ppm. hmm...:thinking: I was always under the impression that a properly running RO/DI should give you a conductivity 0 uS/cm and when it starts creeping up above 2 uS/cm, it would indicate that something is...

It might be a good idea to go DI as well. That will further elliminate the possibility of impurities getting in.

Is it a RO or a RO/DI?

My experience with them is that they will eat your smaller fish especially at night when they are easier to catch. Years gone by, I have had a couple of them.

Hmm.... This thread has taken on that 'tone'.:rolleyes: I don't think there is any intentional flaming (or otherwise) going on, but I think the only point being made above is that quite a few experience reefers have tried to keep this fish without much success and it would be a mistake for...

Hmm... could be. In any case, handle with care.

Success with that fish past a year is minimal. The few that I have heard that lived beyond that, died within the second year. Such a shame because it is truely a beautiful fish. Glad to see that yours is doing fine, but I wouldn't recommend the purchase of these to others based on their history...

I agree. With a softies tank, regular water changes should be all you need. If your coralline really takes off and starts to deplete your calcium/ alkalinity then one of the popular 2-parts additives would easily handle such a demand, which would stll be relatively low. IMO, I wouldn't add...

Originally posted by NM reef ....all that high tech stuff creates headaches. I know what you mean.:D