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Originally Posted by SCSInet I used to interrupt, but now I try to stay out of it unless it's obviously going to cause harm to his livestock. I kind of figure that bad advice is dispensed all day long when I am not around. Besides, I also imagine that most people assume I don't know what I'm...

Whatever you do don't use a brass check valve. PVC only.

Originally Posted by Bang Guy As long as it stays balanced I can't think of any downside of those levels. Usually it's very difficult to maintain those parameter levels but it's not impossible (obviously). Is your Salinity really high also? Nope, a litt low. SG is 1.022

This is going to be awesome when it is done!

Originally Posted by Posiden I use the API test kits. In order for you to get a KH of 230.....you would have to add 230 drops of regent to the vial. I just don't see it. Oh, and if you read the book that comes with the test kit, you will read that it should be in the 8-12 range. I would redo...

The only difference in the 2 tanks was the temperature in the 75 got a little warm (81) and the 20 gallon I had been temporarily keeping everything in was only at 79. I drip acclimited for 30 minutes though. The water was a bit cloudy from the sand being stirred up but other than that all othe...

I did upgrade from a 55 to a 75 last Sunday. The new tank was going in the same spot as the old one so I moved everything into a 20 gallon for about 10-12 hours while I did the switch out. Inverts & corals started dying within 24 hours of the change. At day 4 I figured out what the problem...

Originally Posted by fitbmxdude989 im going to answer a question with a question: why did you apply a copper check valve to a salt water aquarium knowing that the salt is going to dissolve it? Where did I say I knew this was going to happen?????????????????? When my inverts and corals started...

Thanks for your help guys. I"ve got several HOB filters laying around so I am going utilize carbon, Cuprisorb, Poly filters & lots of water changes to hoperfully resolve this problem. I guess I will need to use all of these for several months to be sure I get it all out of the system. What an...

Originally Posted by deejeff442 when you are at your lfs ask for a product that takes out heavy metals.it comes in a bean bag and works alot better than carbon .i have one in my overflow but hell if i can remember what the name was.its around $10. when the stuff inside turns from white to...

I hope I am ok... I've done a 10% water change and will be going to get a new PVC check valve tomorrow, some poly filers & more salt so I can do more water changes.

I just set up my new 75 gallon tank this past weekend. Within 24 hours I had lost most of my inverts and several of my corals I did some research and found that copper leach from my brass check valve into my tank. I went to the LFS and bought a seachem test kit and it reads between 0 & .1. I...

Bought 4 new zoanthids 6 days ago, each containing 20-30 polyps. None have opened yet. Some have started to peak open but then close back up. Is this normal?? I am new to SW.

Tank looks great. Love the aquascaping!

I always click the "new posts" button at the time every time I come back to the site or if I want to see what threads have just been replied to recently.

I have the AquaClear 110 and get no bubbles. Do you have your water level high enough??

I am having the same problem with mine. I have a nice HOB filter that came w/ a brick of carbon that I have not used yet. I will put the carbon in tonight and report back with the results.

Originally Posted by Bang Guy That's really high. High enough that I question your test kits. Brand new API test kits. Less than a month old.

I am using Coralife salt and it seems several people on here have high calcium when using that brand. I am almost out so I will probably switch to Instant Ocean or Tropic Marin.

I have not added any calcium to my tank but it always reads 500-540 PPM. My KH is around 230. Is this a high enough level to go along with my calcium?? PH is 8.2-8.4