120 gal tank help sqidd/ lion crazz / anyone!!!!!!!!

[saltn00b]

ok, the tunze are very good powerheads, likely the best you can get, and you will pay for them. i dont know what overflow box that is but they are all pretty much the same. all that matters is the diameter of the drain hole. 1" is rated to flow 600 GPH down, so if that is all you have that is the max you will be able to push back up. if you go over that your sump runs the risk of running dry cause the pump is pushing too much. a ball valve on the pump can be used to 'throttle it back'. also find out on the sequence website what the Tarpon pushes at the head-height. that is how high up from the pump is the end of the return line postioned? 4 ft? 5 ft? the website will tell you what your actual GPHs will be like. so depending on what you have for your pump circulation, you may want to employ 2 over flow boxes, or one that is of a larger diameter than the standard 1". the majority of your flow however should be from another source. Tunze are good because the engine is mounted on the outiside of the tank and megnetically push the blade on the inside. to me , it is still clunky over all but at least you are saving yourself extra heat sinks. Heavily consider CLS - closed loop system, for the bulk of your flow. easily installed with a little PVC and a large pump. this will remove PHs from the equation, freeing up tank space, not transferring heat, providing a LOT more flow, and saving you money down the line as PHs do NOT last forever. oh and with skimmers always go with larger

 

[lion_crazz]

Much better revised list.
I would recommend the Salifert test kits if you have the extra cash to spend.
I would also recommend the anti-siphon hole in the return for a little extra protection.

 

[lion_crazz]

The super skimmer is a good skimmer, but I was always partial to ETSS skimmers. That is all I have used on my tanks (75 and 210) and they have always worked excellent for me.

 

[lion_crazz]

You are also going to need a bigger bucket of salt. I would recommend getting the 200 gallon bucket of salt.

 

[saltn00b]

although i mix my own salt water, when filling a tank for the first time, especially a big boy, i usually will just by saltwater from the store, at least 50% of it or so. but its always good to buy the biggest bucket of good salt because its cheaper in bulk, and it goes quick enough

 

[lion_crazz]

Originally Posted by saltn00b
although i mix my own salt water, when filling a tank for the first time, especially a big boy, i usually will just by saltwater from the store, at least 50% of it or so. but its always good to buy the biggest bucket of good salt because its cheaper in bulk, and it goes quick enough
Yeah, that would also work. The only reason I recommend mixing it yourself is so that you can get used to making up water and adjusting it before you get live animals in the tank.

 

[lion_crazz]

Your 4th drawing looks very good for your sump, also.

 

[volitan_fa]

On the live sand, 90 lbs may not be enough. You've gotta remember that live sand is going to weigh more per cubic foot than most other kinds of sand. You'll need to figure ABOUT 70-90 lbs/square ft. So figuring your dimensions with sand that weighs 90 lbs/square ft you're looking at about 112.5 lbs of live sand.
And for what it's worth, I like the 4th sump better too

 

[volitan_fa]

Also, just for my own curiosity, what kind of T5 setup are you looking into?

 

[antologia2007]

Originally Posted by lion_crazz
The super skimmer is a good skimmer, but I was always partial to ETSS skimmers. That is all I have used on my tanks (75 and 210) and they have always worked excellent for me.

I started looking at the ETSS skimmers and i saw a site that builds a sump for it included if you pay. sump-skimmer combo
The question is do you have your ETSS skimmer with a sump only or did you build a sump/fuge and bought only the ETSS skimmer
how do you have your filtration setup for your 210
thanks
saltn00b
lion_crazz
for the help
and all others that contribute also
i might have this puppy running before the date i had in mind
Originally Posted by lion_crazz
Your 4th drawing looks very good for your sump, also.
they are not my designs i got them from people needing help in their sump/fuge i give credit to them
and thank them for posting them

 

[antologia2007]

Originally Posted by volitan_fa
Also, just for my own curiosity, what kind of T5 setup are you looking into?
i haven't done much research into lighting (the tank i bought came with some light already, it was used as a fw tank so ill use those for now
since ill be dealing with an empty tank for about a month and 1/2, then 6 months with fowlr then like saltnoob put it ill graduate in about 6 months from that point on, to softies and so on
i just read if you are planing on having sps in the future, might as well spend enough on lighting now and not have to buy some for the time being and then upgrade to better ones
i just want to get my sum/fuge, overflow in and return flow balanced in order to get the tank up and running

 

[saltn00b]

you dont need anything but basic lights that you have until you are ready to start dealing with corals / clams / anenomes.

 

[antologia2007]

Originally Posted by saltn00b
Heavily consider CLS - closed loop system, for the bulk of your flow. easily installed with a little PVC and a large pump. this will remove PHs from the equation, freeing up tank space, not transferring heat, providing a LOT more flow, and saving you money down the line as PHs do NOT last forever. oh and with skimmers always go with larger
???

 

[antologia2007]

i also found info of the overflow box
would this go with the Sequence Reeflo Water Pumps Tarpon 1440gph
CS202 OVERFLOW BOXCPR CS202 Overflow Box
Flow rate 1500 gph.
10" wide
(2) 1" bulkhead fitting
or should i go with something smaller
CPR CS102 Overflow Box
For glass or acrylic aquariums up to 250 gal.
Flow rate 1200 gph.
10" wide
(2) 1" bulkhead outflow
or
CPR CS90 Overflow Box
For glass or acrylic aquariums up to 125 gal.
Flow rate 600 gph.
8" wide
1" bulkhead outflow
or should i change both of them
what is a good waterflow for my 120 (any recommendations )
thanks

 

[deric203]

Keep going Antologia. You're setting my tank up right now too. I got a new 135 and am looking for the same set up.
36" stand
270 lbs ls (dsb)
200 salt
165 lr
Mag Drive 18 pump.................................................
4 SEIO 1100 ph
Coralife 220 skimmer
2 Jager 200w heaters
Lights-spent the money (it hurt) coralife 72" HQI retro ---Retro will allow me to mount directly to canopy. When cleaning or working in the tank, canopy door goes up and the lights are out of the way.
22 gal sump/refugium-not big enough, will use as sump and add 30 gal refugium.
Auqualight dual power center.
refrac, test kits, books that are not nearly as good as SWF forum, ect, ect.
Anyone see any problems with my set up? UPS has every piece enroute but I can change anything.
To connect fuge/sump- 1 1/2" bulkhead Placed 2/3 towards the top?

 

[antologia2007]

Originally Posted by Deric203
Mag Drive 18 pump
4 SEIO 1100 ph
why do you have 4 seio 1100

 

[antologia2007]

Originally Posted by saltn00b
Heavily consider CLS - closed loop system, for the bulk of your flow. easily installed with a little PVC and a large pump. this will remove PHs from the equation, freeing up tank space, not transferring heat, providing a LOT more flow, and saving you money down the line as PHs do NOT last forever. oh and with skimmers always go with larger

ive been doing some more reading and found out that the cls is for drilled tanks

ive gathered this much but correct me if im wrong
i dont have my tank drilled so that means the cls is a no no for me but like i said correct me if im wrong?
i also read on the same post that lion crazz was helping grubsnaek that a good turnover for a 135 tank would be about 1750 - 2000 gph
this is what im trying to find out when im writting about
Return pumps

[hr]
pump Sequence Reeflo Water Pumps Tarpon 1440gph
Overflow box

[hr]
cpr cs202 are this compatible with the in and out flow

Originally Posted by grubsnaek
i curently have about 1500 gph turnover.
for a FOWLR and soft corals how much more gph should i go.

Originally Posted by lion_crazz
Another 250-500 gph.
This brought up another question
how many powerheads do i need?
ill most likely be using the
CPR CS102 Overflow Box
For glass or acrylic aquariums up to 250 gal.
Flow rate 1200 gph.
10" wide
(2) 1" bulkhead outflow
i read that grubsnaek had a lot of powerheads (2-600gph 1-mag12 and 4-150'sgph)

 

[antologia2007]

I found a post that said answered one of my questions
and so i have now
for my sump and tank flow
Powerhead

[hr]
Tunze Pump with Multicontroller 1250gph
Return pumps

[hr]
Sequence Reeflo Water Pumps Tarpon - Flow: 1,250gph @ 4'
Overflow box

[hr]
cpr cs102 flow of 1200
is this right or do I need more or less of a turnover or do i need to change something

 

[saltn00b]

that is looking good so far IMO. Tunze are great and eliminate the need for a multiple small PHs because the flow radiates out instead of a linear blast. dont worry about too much flow, they say you can never have enough flow. when you think about it, a reef is submerged in the ocean which is something of Tremendous forces, currents and waves and storms create an almost uncalculable amount of flow in the wild. If you are on the high side of the flow , just make sure you aim a bit higher as to not blow your sand around.

 

[antologia2007]

Originally Posted by saltn00b
Tunze are great and eliminate the need for a multiple small PHs because the flow radiates out instead of a linear blast.
with the tunze i will wont have to buy two or three phs is that what you mean or is it better to buy two or three phs?
although from what you wrote i understand that one tunze is better than the averange phs
does a ph go connected directly in to the pump's tubing line or is it somewhere in/out-hanging of the tank?