144half circle stocking list, input appreciated...

[aquaknight]

Originally Posted by stdreb27
http:///forum/post/2767771
He said 5 foot in diameter. 4 foot radius I'd try it.
Correct, he did say 5' diameter. However, the circumference of that round pane is 88" IIRC (Rotary do you have that old thread?)

Also note, that a "half circle" tank really is more of an oval then a true half circle.
Of course that is only if the fish chooses to swim along that path. That is way I mention creating a rock wall or something so he doesn't just zoom along the back of the tank.

 

[aquaknight]

Originally Posted by Rotarymagic
http:///forum/post/2767696
I'm thinking about growing a sponge in some sort of dedicated fuge for it... then fragging it and putting bits in the DT. I was definitely going to QT any tang and tusk that goes in. Whats the smallest QT tank I can use and what kind of filtration while keeping it hypo?
Well, IMO, you really should QT all of the fish. The tangs and tusk usually aren't the ones that bring the disease into the tank, but they're the ones that unfortunately suffer the consequences.
For QT size, it really just depends on what you what to do, and how fast or slow you want to take it. If you absolutely had to, something like a 25gal could work. However, IMHO, the best QT tank out there is a 55gal. This is where I differ a bit from the norm, as I often QT more then one fish at a time. The large size of a 55gal QT makes it possible. It's 4ft in length, so there's a bit of swimming room, yet the gallonage is low enough that you won't be forking over tons of dough to keep up with water changes. Which, is the only means of filtration doing hypo. Do water changes as often as you can. I do 10gals every 3 days on my 55gal QT.
Also note, I would never QT to fish that are competitive or aggressive towards each other. Like a Tang with a Dwarf Angel, or an Angel and a Puffer should be no problem together in QT.

 

[stdreb27]

Originally Posted by AquaKnight
http:///forum/post/2767865
Well, IMO, you really should QT all of the fish. The tangs and tusk usually aren't the ones that bring the disease into the tank, but they're the ones that unfortunately suffer the consequences.
For QT size, it really just depends on what you what to do, and how fast or slow you want to take it. If you absolutely had to, something like a 25gal could work. However, IMHO, the best QT tank out there is a 55gal. This is where I differ a bit from the norm, as I often QT more then one fish at a time. The large size of a 55gal QT makes it possible. It's 4ft in length, so there's a bit of swimming room, yet the galllonage is low enough that you wouldn't be forking over tons of dough to keep up with water changes. Which, is the only means of filtration doing hypo. Do water changes as often as you can. I do 10gals every 3 days on my 55gal QT.
I dunno, any fish in the wild is going to have some parasites. From what they eat and stuff, the difference is they have access to stuff that addresses that, and we aren't able to duplicate that in a closed system.

 

[rotarymagic]

Originally Posted by AquaKnight
http:///forum/post/2767865
Well, IMO, you really should QT all of the fish. The tangs and tusk usually aren't the ones that bring the disease into the tank, but they're the ones that unfortunately suffer the consequences.
For QT size, it really just depends on what you what to do, and how fast or slow you want to take it. If you absolutely had to, something like a 25gal could work. However, IMHO, the best QT tank out there is a 55gal. This is where I differ a bit from the norm, as I often QT more then one fish at a time. The large size of a 55gal QT makes it possible. It's 4ft in length, so there's a bit of swimming room, yet the gallonage is low enough that you won't be forking over tons of dough to keep up with water changes. Which, is the only means of filtration doing hypo. Do water changes as often as you can. I do 10gals every 3 days on my 55gal QT.
Also note, I would never QT to fish that are competitive or aggressive towards each other. Like a Tang with a Dwarf Angel, or an Angel and a Puffer should be no problem together in QT.

So don't just freshwater dip them lol??? I'll have a UV sterilizer on the tank haha.

 

[aquaknight]

Originally Posted by stdreb27
http:///forum/post/2767870
I dunno, any fish in the wild is going to have some parasites. From what they eat and stuff, the difference is they have access to stuff that addresses that, and we aren't able to duplicate that in a closed system.
Yea, it's really hard to say. It's my long running theorm that about 99% of the Ich and Marine Velvet in customers tanks, came from a fish that got infected in either a wholesaler, distributor, or at the retail level. If you were able to get fish straight from a collector, Ich and Marine Velvet would be non-existant in this hobby.
The only thing we really can't provide for our fish, is clean, fresh, water. When a tang or Tusk or other fish gets Ich in the wild, that bit of Ich drops off dutring it's life cycle at a location in the ocean. The fish still continues to swim and after all the Ich has dropped off, he is no longer affected. This is actually the 3rd form of treat for Ich. You had 2 tanks, and constantly switch the fish back from one tank to the other. After you move the fish, you completely drain and sterilize the other tank. The Ich drops off the fish and is killing when you clean the tank. For obviously reasons, it's almost impossbile to actually carry out this method.
Other things like internal parasites, flukes, and isopods, yea, almost exclusively come from the wild.
Originally Posted by Rotarymagic
http:///forum/post/2767898
So don't just freshwater dip them lol??? I'll have a UV sterilizer on the tank haha.
If you are being serious,

, a FW dip only kills a portion of Marine Velvet or Ich on an infected fish. Many of the parasite are deep within the fish.
A UV sterilizer is virutally useless to fight Ich or MV.

 

[rotarymagic]

Originally Posted by AquaKnight
http:///forum/post/2767900
Yea, it's really hard to say. It's my long running theorm that about 99% of the Ich and Marine Velvet in customers tanks, came from a fish that got infected in either a wholesaler, distributor, or at the retail level. If you were able to get fish straight from a collector, Ich and Marine Velvet would be non-existant in this hobby.
The only thing we really can't provide for our fish, is clean, fresh, water. When a tang or Tusk or other fish gets Ich in the wild, that bit of Ich drops off dutring it's life cycle at a location in the ocean. The fish still continues to swim and after all the Ich has dropped off, he is no longer affected. This is actually the 3rd form of treat for Ich. You had 2 tanks, and constantly switch the fish back from one tank to the other. After you move the fish, you completely drain and sterilize the other tank. The Ich drops off the fish and is killing when you clean the tank. For obviously reasons, it's almost impossbile to actually carry out this method.
Other things like internal parasites, flukes, and isopods, yea, almost exclusively come from the wild.
If you are being serious,

, a FW dip only kills a portion of Marine Velvet or Ich on an infected fish. Many of the parasite are deep within the fish.
A UV sterilizer is virutally useless to fight Ich or MV.
I'm kidding.