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turbocav250

turbocav250

Member
Just got back from lowes with 70 dollars in pvc piping. I have a question for you all.
My Sequence Dart has a 2" suction that I am running from the top of the tank down. When I go over the top i personally think that a 2 inch pipe sucking water from the tank is alittle big. I'll probably be sucking in livestock too! Can I "T" and go with 2, 1" suctions and still get the same effect?
This is on a closed loop by the way!
 
turbocav250

turbocav250

Member
23 views and no replies?
Also I'm looking at my union from Lowes and its says 150 psi - 73 degrees F. Can I use this on my tank which has a temp of 80 degrees? The piece is made by american valve and came from Lowes.
 
6stokes

6stokes

Member
Technically, no. Two 1 inch openings are not as big as one 2 inch opening. It would take about four 1 inch openings to equal the area of a 2 inch opening. The formula to figure this out is 3.14(R^2) where R is radius.
 
turbocav250

turbocav250

Member
Thank you guys. I actually spoke with the support tech at mdm sequence inc and he said you either run the 2" intake or tee off into 2 1" intakes. I guess you really dont need the full 2" flow for the Dart Pump. I'm going to run the 2" pipe over the top with a foam filter for the strainer. Seems like the only way at this point. Can anyone point out a good 2" strainer for a closed loop system. And dont say filter floss I know that but how do you secure it!?
 
bang guy

bang guy

Moderator
When I get home tonight I'll take a pic of my 2" strainer. It's big & bulky but it will save livestock without hampering waterflow. It's basically a 4" flange with a PVC sewer grill in it.
As far as temp... that's the pressure rating at that specific temp, not the max temp for the pipe. A closed loop actually has very little pressure on it, especially with big pipes.
 
turbocav250

turbocav250

Member
Thank you bang, I'm looking forward to your post!
While your here I guess I should ask you another question. My design to prime the pump is quite simple but I'm not sure if it will cause cavitation.
Basically from the pump it 90s straight up and hits a union then goes to a "Tee". From the "Tee" the vertical section goes over the top of the tank for the intake on the pump. The horizontal section goes to a 90 then to a threaded cap. My idea is I can fill up the intake almost 3/4s of the way up the pipe to prime the pump.
The problem is no water fill be flowing through that horizontal 90 and filler cap.
Here is a vague drawing.
==== Filler Neck
|| || ||
|| || ||
||=== 90
||
||
||
||
||
=== union
||
||
||
||====Pump
 
turbocav250

turbocav250

Member
Just imagine the top section over to the left so the neck is exposed. I"ll draw a schematic up at work.
Also how far down in the tank should it be, 8"?
I'm going to put it to the left of my Overflow, will that cause the overflow to starve?
Thanks in Advance, Dan
 
bang guy

bang guy

Moderator
I dont see a problem with your prime at all. Good idea IMO. It'll send out some bubbles before it gets going but then it should be great. Do you also have valves before the Union so it's easy to take offline for maintenance?
If you can hide the bulky strainer behind some rocks that might make it look better. It doesn't really matter how far down you just don't want it sucking up sand nor sucking air.
The overflow will not be affected at all unless the pipe is actually blocking the overflow.
 
turbocav250

turbocav250

Member
I will add a BV before the union on the intake side. I have a true union on the return side of the pump. So with this strainer it is just simple a 4" PVC Expander Coupler with a 4" PVC Sewer Drain screwed into it? There is no filter floss or foam covering the drain?
Dan
 
bang guy

bang guy

Moderator
Mine probably isn't applicable for yours. It's just one idea. The beauty of closed loop is that they on'y pump in what they take out.
 
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