30 Gallon Refugium
- Thread starter zeroc0o0l
- Start date
ameno
Active Member
I think what you have in the last pic is good except for a few things I would do different. Split the supply from the DT with one pipe going into the skimmer and the other into the fuge, and not have the return pump going to the fuge and the DT. I think overall this would give you a better flow and better flow control, with a valve on each line. Also on the tree baffles after the skimmer compartment I would put the baffle that is next to the sump down to the bottom and have it come up a feww inches above the pump, and do the same thing on the fuge side. the way it is now the water will fall down from the high baffle and the bubbles it creates will be pulled into your pump suction.
sk8shorty01
Active Member
zerocoool - I would not have the pump do the extra work to send water to your refugium as that would be using power you don't have to use. It would be easier to let the gravity and ball valves control the flow to the refugium and let the pump worry about sending water strictly back up to the display itself. This means you will be getting more flow (gph wise) with the same size pump. If you go with the return T then you will be getting less flow and will have to buy a bigger pump in order to accomplish the same flow rate.
ameno - the water should be flowing underneath the last baffle next to the pump (the third baffle going from right to left) so therefore there should be no bubbles. I am almost positive this is how a bubble trap is supposed to work, if the water flows over something else it will cause bubbles again, thats why it should be going underneath the last baffle. please correct me if I am wrong, but I thought I have seen this done that way many times before.
ameno - the water should be flowing underneath the last baffle next to the pump (the third baffle going from right to left) so therefore there should be no bubbles. I am almost positive this is how a bubble trap is supposed to work, if the water flows over something else it will cause bubbles again, thats why it should be going underneath the last baffle. please correct me if I am wrong, but I thought I have seen this done that way many times before.
ameno
Active Member
When the water flows over the second baffle it will fall down to the lower level in the sump and create bubbles, these bubbles will go down and then out, pulled into the pump suction. if you put this baffle all the way down the bubbles will be forced to rise and go over then disperse at the top before it gets to the pump suction. I learn this the hard way on my first fuge. the ones I build now I set this last baffle in as stated and never get any bubbles back to the DT.
scopus tang
Active Member
Originally Posted by zeroc0o0l
http:///forum/post/2525320
Also should I try and have a prefilter before the water hits the rock? with a sock or something like that ?
zeroc0o0l, we solved this by putting an elbow at the bottom of the drain pipe over the rock rubble, and then running a short (8") piece of PVC pipe which is capped off on the end (glue the cap on). Cut perpendicular slots (two or three saw blade widths each), every inch or so in the 8" piece so your water is forced to drain out of the slots and over the whole rubble area. Then build a shelf above the rubble at the proper height for the pipe to sit on, using eggcrate. Cover your eggcrate with a blue prefilter pad ~ a you have an easy to change prefilter system. Don't glue any of the PVC, except the cap, from the elbow on, just push it together firmly.
http:///forum/post/2525320
Also should I try and have a prefilter before the water hits the rock? with a sock or something like that ?
zeroc0o0l, we solved this by putting an elbow at the bottom of the drain pipe over the rock rubble, and then running a short (8") piece of PVC pipe which is capped off on the end (glue the cap on). Cut perpendicular slots (two or three saw blade widths each), every inch or so in the 8" piece so your water is forced to drain out of the slots and over the whole rubble area. Then build a shelf above the rubble at the proper height for the pipe to sit on, using eggcrate. Cover your eggcrate with a blue prefilter pad ~ a you have an easy to change prefilter system. Don't glue any of the PVC, except the cap, from the elbow on, just push it together firmly.
sk8shorty01
Active Member
Originally Posted by Scopus Tang
http:///forum/post/2525408
zeroc0o0l, we solved this by putting an elbow at the bottom of the drain pipe over the rock rubble, and then running a short (8") piece of PVC pipe which is capped off on the end (glue the cap on). Cut perpendicular slots (two or three saw blade widths each), every inch or so in the 8" piece so your water is forced to drain out of the slots and over the whole rubble area. Then build a shelf above the rubble at the proper height for the pipe to sit on, using eggcrate. Cover your eggcrate with a blue prefilter pad ~ a you have an easy to change prefilter system. Don't glue any of the PVC, except the cap, from the elbow on, just push it together firmly.
Thats a good idea scopus, I like the design idea as everything sounds easy to take apart and clean (replace filtration). Thanks, I am going to look into doing something like this on my refugium as well.
http:///forum/post/2525408
zeroc0o0l, we solved this by putting an elbow at the bottom of the drain pipe over the rock rubble, and then running a short (8") piece of PVC pipe which is capped off on the end (glue the cap on). Cut perpendicular slots (two or three saw blade widths each), every inch or so in the 8" piece so your water is forced to drain out of the slots and over the whole rubble area. Then build a shelf above the rubble at the proper height for the pipe to sit on, using eggcrate. Cover your eggcrate with a blue prefilter pad ~ a you have an easy to change prefilter system. Don't glue any of the PVC, except the cap, from the elbow on, just push it together firmly.
Thats a good idea scopus, I like the design idea as everything sounds easy to take apart and clean (replace filtration). Thanks, I am going to look into doing something like this on my refugium as well.
zeroc0o0l
Member
sk8shorty01
The thought behind breakin the pump off into 3 places was the fact the pump is a 9.5 and I think thats about 950 gph. I think my overflow is only 600gph if I use one of the pipes for return. There are 2 pipes for the overflow I assumed that one was for drain the other for pump back into DT is this correct? I think the one return is Inch PVC and the other is half inch.
The thought behind breakin the pump off into 3 places was the fact the pump is a 9.5 and I think thats about 950 gph. I think my overflow is only 600gph if I use one of the pipes for return. There are 2 pipes for the overflow I assumed that one was for drain the other for pump back into DT is this correct? I think the one return is Inch PVC and the other is half inch.
sk8shorty01
Active Member
My brother actually used both of those holes for his drain, which brought the gph up quite a bit in the overflow, by the way is this a drilled tank or are you using an overflow box?
sk8shorty01
Active Member
I think you should also move the ball valve you have going on the return to the tank from there to the line that is running from the pump to the refugium, otherwise the water will have no restriction on that line and will most likely have most of the flow going through that area.
ameno
Active Member
your 9.5 mag will be 950 gph before head loss by the time you add elbows and height you will probably be getting closer to the 600 gph.
What is the purpose of a bubble defuser on the supply at the skimmer? the skimmer itself will be producing bubbles and your baffles are to defuse before going into the sump. What am I missing here
What is the purpose of a bubble defuser on the supply at the skimmer? the skimmer itself will be producing bubbles and your baffles are to defuse before going into the sump. What am I missing here
sk8shorty01
Active Member
I think the pipe with the slots cut in it should be added on the refugium side, and you can still do the filter pad over there.. This would help so that no bubbles get stuck in your macroalgae and cause it to start floating. I would put that on the other side, good point ameno. The skimmer is going to be adding bubbles, and the return will be spilling into the tank causing bubbles anyways so I think it would serve a better purpose at the opposite end of the tank.
ameno
Active Member
Originally Posted by sk8shorty01
http:///forum/post/2525568
I think the pipe with the slots cut in it should be added on the refugium side, and you can still do the filter pad over there.. This would help so that no bubbles get stuck in your macroalgae and cause it to start floating. I would put that on the other side, good point ameno. The skimmer is going to be adding bubbles, and the return will be spilling into the tank causing bubbles anyways so I think it would serve a better purpose at the opposite end of the tank.
agree
http:///forum/post/2525568
I think the pipe with the slots cut in it should be added on the refugium side, and you can still do the filter pad over there.. This would help so that no bubbles get stuck in your macroalgae and cause it to start floating. I would put that on the other side, good point ameno. The skimmer is going to be adding bubbles, and the return will be spilling into the tank causing bubbles anyways so I think it would serve a better purpose at the opposite end of the tank.
ameno
Active Member
to expand some on what sk8short01 said early, on your return flow, the flow is going to want to travel in the direction of least resistance which would be to the fuge in this case. I would really look at the idea of running your 1" line to the skimmer and the smaller, which I'm thinking is probably 3/4" to the fuge and doing arway with the pump return feeding the fuge. Just my 2 cents worth
wattsupdoc
Active Member
Originally Posted by zeroc0o0l
http:///forum/post/2525503
Update
IMO this design has a few flaws. Ameno has pointed some of them out, but they seem to have been discounted.
http:///forum/post/2525503
Update
IMO this design has a few flaws. Ameno has pointed some of them out, but they seem to have been discounted.
wattsupdoc
Active Member
ameno, I like to put a bubbletrap before the skimmer. Reason for this is to maintain skimmers consistancy. Sucking up bubbles IMO causes the skimmer not to run completly consistant. Surging a little etc. Stop the bubbles the skimmer runs smoother. But thats just my theory. Also surging from the drains as happens sometimes, can cause incionsistant operatation. A bubble trap just assures me that the flow is steady and controlled.
scopus tang
Active Member
Originally Posted by wattsupdoc
http:///forum/post/2525841
IMO this design has a few flaws. Ameno has pointed some of them out, but they seem to have been discounted.
Hey Doc, Wondered when you were going to show up and join this conversation.
http:///forum/post/2525841
IMO this design has a few flaws. Ameno has pointed some of them out, but they seem to have been discounted.
Hey Doc, Wondered when you were going to show up and join this conversation.
ameno
Active Member
Originally Posted by wattsupdoc
http:///forum/post/2525841
IMO this design has a few flaws. Ameno has pointed some of them out, but they seem to have been discounted.
Thanks Doc
Your theory does make sense, I've never done it that way are even thought about it but I guess it could make some difference.
http:///forum/post/2525841
IMO this design has a few flaws. Ameno has pointed some of them out, but they seem to have been discounted.
Thanks Doc
Your theory does make sense, I've never done it that way are even thought about it but I guess it could make some difference.
wattsupdoc
Active Member
I like bubble traps before the fuge too, this keeps the cheato from collecting them and floating it. Here's what I'd do. I know it's pretty much the same as I've put out there before, but I really like this design.
