30 Gallon SPS Reef Build
- Thread starter lubeck
- Start date
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Lubeck, did you stop vodka dosing?
I've read that if you vodka dose and the tips receed, your alkalinity levels should be kept closer to natural sea water levels... 7-8dKH. Also, with vodka dosing, there have been reports of coral bleaching - which has been somewhat remedied by the addition of amino acids...
I've read that if you vodka dose and the tips receed, your alkalinity levels should be kept closer to natural sea water levels... 7-8dKH. Also, with vodka dosing, there have been reports of coral bleaching - which has been somewhat remedied by the addition of amino acids...
lubeck
Active Member
So my trates continue to be 2.5 and phosphates around .03. That has been like that for over two weeks. However, I do have some algae growth in the dt that my macros isn't getting in my sump. Which tells me I have too much nutrients in the tank.
So two questions. Are the parameters ok that are listed? What is the next best thing to reduce nutrients besides water changes and reducing food?
When I had my old tank way back in 05 I fed the fish every other day. I don't know if I want to do that to my fish now?
So two questions. Are the parameters ok that are listed? What is the next best thing to reduce nutrients besides water changes and reducing food?
When I had my old tank way back in 05 I fed the fish every other day. I don't know if I want to do that to my fish now?
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Macroalgae in a refugium can work. Algae scrubbers are effective. A larger protein skimmer may work. Water changes will definitely help. Chemical filtration such as GFO, Carbon and maybe even zeovit system could work.
If you have a sandbed, keep it clean.
If you have a sandbed, keep it clean.
lubeck
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/387844/30-gallon-sps-reef-build/240#post_3487284
Macroalgae in a refugium can work. Algae scrubbers are effective. A larger protein skimmer may work. Water changes will definitely help. Chemical filtration such as GFO, Carbon and maybe even zeovit system could work.
If you have a sandbed, keep it clean.
i have all of these except for the scrubber and the zeovit system...
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/387844/30-gallon-sps-reef-build/240#post_3487284
Macroalgae in a refugium can work. Algae scrubbers are effective. A larger protein skimmer may work. Water changes will definitely help. Chemical filtration such as GFO, Carbon and maybe even zeovit system could work.
If you have a sandbed, keep it clean.
i have all of these except for the scrubber and the zeovit system...
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Almost looks like red coralline. I have a ton of it in my 20g nano.
travelerjp98
Active Member
Alright, I'm putting this on my list of threads to look through and catch up on.
Looks nice!
Looks nice!
lubeck
Active Member
I'm having a battle with hair algae. I need some help! My guess is that my food is what is doing it, I feed too much so I will slow down drastically My lights may be a problem but it never was before but I was dosing then. They run from 7 am to about 9 pm but they go in stages as the day goes on.
I'm wondering if my corals could handle me covering the tank for three days without light? What do you think? Would that get rid of the hair algae?
I have to believe I have enough and the right flow in the tank as well as plenty of filtration with the sump the skimmer and the macro that runs 24/7. Thoughts?
I'm wondering if my corals could handle me covering the tank for three days without light? What do you think? Would that get rid of the hair algae?
I have to believe I have enough and the right flow in the tank as well as plenty of filtration with the sump the skimmer and the macro that runs 24/7. Thoughts?
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
3 days of no light is not enough to starve hair algae.
1. cut back feeding
2. Feed quality foods, rinse frozen foods
3. Use RO/DI water only. Change your filters every 3 months, and regularly test TDS for ZERO.
4. Use additional flow in that area of the tank.
5. gravel vac your sandbed
6. blow your rocks off with a powerhead before water changes.
7. Manually remove the hair algae and invest in a small clean up crew to keep it in check.
8. Take the affected rock out and use a spray bottle with hydrogen peroxide in it... spray the algae thoroughly and then put it back in the tank. let sit 1 minute.
9. Reduce your photo period between 8 to 10 hours per day.
10. Replace your lights if they are old bulbs.
11. Double the light watts that you have on your refugium, and set the refugium timer for 16 hours on, 8 hours off. Replace refugium bulbs every 3 months.
12. Water changes to reduce overall nitrate and phosphate and replace elements.
13. Use a properly built and maintained underwater algae scrubber in your fuge.
14. Use GFO In a reactor. Replace your media at regular intervals.
1. cut back feeding
2. Feed quality foods, rinse frozen foods
3. Use RO/DI water only. Change your filters every 3 months, and regularly test TDS for ZERO.
4. Use additional flow in that area of the tank.
5. gravel vac your sandbed
6. blow your rocks off with a powerhead before water changes.
7. Manually remove the hair algae and invest in a small clean up crew to keep it in check.
8. Take the affected rock out and use a spray bottle with hydrogen peroxide in it... spray the algae thoroughly and then put it back in the tank. let sit 1 minute.
9. Reduce your photo period between 8 to 10 hours per day.
10. Replace your lights if they are old bulbs.
11. Double the light watts that you have on your refugium, and set the refugium timer for 16 hours on, 8 hours off. Replace refugium bulbs every 3 months.
12. Water changes to reduce overall nitrate and phosphate and replace elements.
13. Use a properly built and maintained underwater algae scrubber in your fuge.
14. Use GFO In a reactor. Replace your media at regular intervals.
lubeck
Active Member
3 days of no light is not enough to starve hair algae.--- so not at all?
1. cut back feeding--- I will and have
2. Feed quality foods, rinse frozen foods --- I do. And the rinsing is debatable. But since I have issues I may until it goes away.
3. Use RO/DI water only. Change your filters every 3 months, and regularly test TDS for ZERO. --- I do and they are
4. Use additional flow in that area of the tank. ---- not necessary, flow is not an issue.
5. gravel vac your sandbed --- this is something I need to start.
6. blow your rocks off with a powerhead before water changes. --- I do this every day
7. Manually remove the hair algae and invest in a small clean up crew to keep it in check. --- what will eat it because I have mexican turbo nassaurius and they don't eat it.
8. Take the affected rock out and use a spray bottle with hydrogen peroxide in it... spray the algae thoroughly and then put it back in the tank. let sit 1 minute. ---- not too sure about this
9. Reduce your photo period between 8 to 10 hours per day. --- I will need to adjust
10. Replace your lights if they are old bulbs. --- I have led
11. Double the light watts that you have on your refugium, and set the refugium timer for 16 hours on, 8 hours off. Replace refugium bulbs every 3 months. --- need to adjust. This could be the main issue because I only have pc now
12. Water changes to reduce overall nitrate and phosphate and replace elements. --- 20% every week. Never missed. Thinking about doing a 50%?
13. Use a properly built and maintained underwater algae scrubber in your fuge. Don't think I have enough room
14. Use GFO In a reactor. Replace your media at regular intervals.
---- I have some phosaban that I never used not sure about it
Just checked my phos -.03 and trates at 2.5
1. cut back feeding--- I will and have
2. Feed quality foods, rinse frozen foods --- I do. And the rinsing is debatable. But since I have issues I may until it goes away.
3. Use RO/DI water only. Change your filters every 3 months, and regularly test TDS for ZERO. --- I do and they are
4. Use additional flow in that area of the tank. ---- not necessary, flow is not an issue.
5. gravel vac your sandbed --- this is something I need to start.
6. blow your rocks off with a powerhead before water changes. --- I do this every day
7. Manually remove the hair algae and invest in a small clean up crew to keep it in check. --- what will eat it because I have mexican turbo nassaurius and they don't eat it.
8. Take the affected rock out and use a spray bottle with hydrogen peroxide in it... spray the algae thoroughly and then put it back in the tank. let sit 1 minute. ---- not too sure about this
9. Reduce your photo period between 8 to 10 hours per day. --- I will need to adjust
10. Replace your lights if they are old bulbs. --- I have led
11. Double the light watts that you have on your refugium, and set the refugium timer for 16 hours on, 8 hours off. Replace refugium bulbs every 3 months. --- need to adjust. This could be the main issue because I only have pc now
12. Water changes to reduce overall nitrate and phosphate and replace elements. --- 20% every week. Never missed. Thinking about doing a 50%?
13. Use a properly built and maintained underwater algae scrubber in your fuge. Don't think I have enough room
14. Use GFO In a reactor. Replace your media at regular intervals.
---- I have some phosaban that I never used not sure about it
Just checked my phos -.03 and trates at 2.5
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
2,700k is pretty much where you would want to be. Intensity is also important.
lubeck
Active Member
Well after yOu sent the list of items I forgot that I've been running my fuge 24/7 with a t8 bulb That's 8 mths old and that explains why the chaeto isn't winning the battle against my dt anymore. I went and got a replacement bulb which is 4300k GLO I hope it gets the chaeto growing again.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Yeah, most CFL bulbs and tubes have to be replaced every 3 months to maintain intensity. Yes, there is light, but no intensity. Also, if your macroalgae is not doing well and maybe even turning yellow in spots, dose some iron supplement. Iron will make your chaeto grow GREEN.