8'x2' stand and canopy re-finish

acrylic51

Active Member
Hey Buddy!!!!! Looks very nice.....See you used the old trick with the steel wool between the coats of poly......Tedious as you know, but the end results are so worth it......The more you rub it down with the steel wool, you can make anything look like a mirror.....I wish I could find the old pics to my 240.....you could shave in the finish.....
Did you use pine on the trim work on the stand.........
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Yeah, the original wood was actually white pine. I didn't want to deviate too much from the original wood, so I used white pine as the trim. The oak ply on top and within the stand is there for strength and well,... looks.
The stand didn't turn out as good as I wanted it to be, but at least I have a little experience under my belt working with polyurethane. The guy that I did this stand for has another project for me to do in the oncoming months. I also have a couple of other stands that people are talking to me about doing. Hopefully I will get a little business.
This hurricane that is supposed to come through Louisiana in the next couple of days is probably going to throw everything off... and be very bad for some businesses. I know I'm worried that my current apartment is going to flood, since it almost floods every time it rains too long already. I'm trying to take preparations myself,... packed down my wifes car with some supplies and filled up the gas tank. I got everything off the ground in the apartment that I wanted to keep.
It's going to really suck if power goes out. Anyways... enough of me itching and moaning about it. Whatever happens, happens.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
I hear you Seth.......Hopefully the storm isn't severe......I think pine is hard to work with only due to it's staining characteristics.....It doesn't seem to take stain evenly and even when you pre treat is doesn't help that I've seen.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///t/392517/8x2-stand-and-canopy-re-finish/40#post_3490161
I hear you Seth.......Hopefully the storm isn't severe......I think pine is hard to work with only due to it's staining characteristics.....It doesn't seem to take stain evenly and even when you pre treat is doesn't help that I've seen.
You're absolutely right. You can definitely see the stain color differences in the front of the stand. Pine is horrible to stain - and I don't like doing it. But, it's what the guy wanted. If I were going to do it myself - and build the stand from scratch, I would have definitely invested in Red Oak or White Oak. Not a soft wood for sure.
I'll be building a 20g stand for myself here in the next couple of weeks out of red oak. I'm going to stain as well. Watch for the thread! I'm taking my 20g tank down and converting it to a freshwater planted tank. I'm hopefully going to get a 75g reef ready tank soon to set up. I'm selling the 110g tall that I have. It's just too tall to really work in. Very hard to get motivated to clean it correctly.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Wasn't knocking it at all Seth.....I just know how much of a pain it can be....You almost have to go darker than what you want and then bleach it back a bit till you get your coloring of choice.......
Red Oak is another I try to stay clear of.....It has very open pores, and finish quality can be a nightmare unless you close the pores of the wood completely........Stains decent IMO, but getting that mirrored finish without closing the pores is near to impossible.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///t/392517/8x2-stand-and-canopy-re-finish/40#post_3490173
Wasn't knocking it at all Seth.....I just know how much of a pain it can be....You almost have to go darker than what you want and then bleach it back a bit till you get your coloring of choice.......
Red Oak is another I try to stay clear of.....It has very open pores, and finish quality can be a nightmare unless you close the pores of the wood completely........Stains decent IMO, but getting that mirrored finish without closing the pores is near to impossible.
Hmm. I might have to re-think my strategy.
What wood would you recommend? I like white oak but the $$ is just... whew.
I think poplar is something available at my local lumber store. I know there are a couple of other lumber yards where I am at that I can call and ask to see what types of wood are available...
I didn't want to fool with staining and bleaching that stand. I think it looks pretty decent for what it turned out to be. I think that the job that I did is going to be MUCH much better than what my client could have probably accomplished on his own.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
I like Poplar, 1 easily available, works rather well IMO, but the dust drives my sinuses crazy for whatever reason.....Doing an American doll dresser (dual closing doors, with European hinges, 2 hanging racks, shoe racks, sliding drawer on 10" ball bearing slides fully adjustable, and 3 small shelves....) and canopy bed right now for my granddaughter......Maple is also another nice choice IMO, finishes and works well.....Cherry another, but expensive......
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Yeah, Maple, Mahogany and Cherry are all a little out of my price range.
Poplar might be best for me then. I've never worked with it, but I know the wood is pretty when I see it in the lumber yard.
When you spoke of sealing up the pores in Red Oak... could you give me a link to some more detail on that? I'm just curious as to what all it takes.
 

novahobbies

Well-Known Member
I'd like to know as well. The stand I just finished was predominately pine, and it shows. That combined with a fair newbie with staining, and.....well, *I* can see the problem spots, even if the missus claims she can't.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
I think with most of the more porous woods it's generally recommended to apply a coat or two of conditioner to seal the wood and then do multiple coats of dye or stain to get the color you're after. Just make sure you aren't mixing water born products with oil based. You have to be careful with the poplar though too, I've noticed. It's a softer wood close to pine or at least the stuff you get from the big home improvement stores is. As with anything there's multiple species with different characteristics. The stuff I got down here took stained pretty well and fairly even in 1-2 coats if you work quick and don't let any excess sit on the surface of the wood for too long. The grain in poplar can very dramatically and some areas or pieces depending from which stock they came from will soak up the stain quicker than others. I find that with the more practice I get you can judge these areas pretty quickly in order to adjust if need be and work faster n lighter over them.
Dark stains over plywood can be tough. I like the way birch plywood takes stain if you can find some descent pieces to work from H.D. or Lowes.
 

lol

Member
I think it turned out pretty good. I like the poly that you put on it. 5 coats?! Have you delivered it yet? What did the guy think?
It takes a lot of time, patience and experience to do the kinds of things you do. I'm sure you did a much better job than what he might have been able to do on his own.
So are you doing this for extra cash or something?
 
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