Am I cycling?

scotikis

Member
I set up my tank on December 5th. It's a 125 w 130 lbs Live Rock, 300lbs sand, 39 gal 'fuge with Calerpa in Miracle Mud. I also have a UV.
I've tested my parameters weekly and I'm rather suprised that my Ammonia and 'Trites aren't @ zero. Here are my parameters:
Ammonia - .125
Nitrites - .05
Nitrates - 0
Ph - 8.6
Alkalinity - 1.7-2.8
SG - 1.022
So Far I haven't turned on the UV. The light on my 'fuge is on always. I have an abundance of algae in both the DT and the 'fuge. Since I live in the Pittsburgh, PA area, I have a lot of evaporation occuring (furnace is always running). As a result I have to top off the system almost daily. I am using tap water from my well.
I pride myself on patience, but I gotta say, it's wearing a little thin. Does this timefame sound typical? My LFS guy that set the system up with me recommended that I leave the UV off until I get livestock. Unfortunately that guy is off on disability or something and is totally out of reach. Should I continue to leave the UV off? I appreciate any feedback. Thank you. Scott
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Ok here is what I am thinking, you are using you LR to cycles your tank. But unless you have die off you are in fact not going to get any spikes. Your algae on your live rock is going to continue to grow as long as you have illumination and any critters you have may or may not die off to the extent that your bio flirtation on your live rock can not handle the load. thus a spike So no spike. But this post is post beverages so take that into consideration
 

spanko

Active Member
Readings look a little strange for a 2 month old tank to me. What test kit are you using? Can you take a sample to a LFS or a reefing friend to verify your readings?
Tap water from the well may be fueling the algae growth. Did you test the water at all prior to mixing it with salt?
 

scotikis

Member
Hey Spanko. Using Red Sea Marine Lab test kit. Yea, I can find a lfs store to verify my results. In fact, when I tested my ammonia using the freshwater/saltwater test kit for my son's 20gal freshwater tank, Ammonia read zero. I did test my tap water for ammonia prior to mixing salt and I've tested it recently as well. Ammonia both times was nonexistant.
 

bang guy

Moderator
Originally Posted by Scotikis
http:///forum/post/2942108
Thanks Joe..Cheers. With my current Amonia and Trites' levels, can I add a CUC?
First, it could just be the test kit. Are you using an Aquarium Pharaceuticals kit?
Second, start feeding the tank what you would feed the first fish inhabitant. If ammonia stays at the same place then I'd say your tank has cycled. It doesn't mean your tank is stable though....
I see no problem with adding a Cuc as long as it's not the filter feeding type.
 

cjworkman

Member
This doesn't have to do with the main problem.. but you should test your well water for phosphate. If it is present, it could become a problem in the future for algae, because carbon (if your running it) won't help remove phosphate.
For the main problem... how much flow do you have going on? How many Power Heads?
What filtration are you using? you have a skimmer or anything running?
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by Bang Guy
http:///forum/post/2942142
First, it could just be the test kit. Are you using an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals kit?
Second, start feeding the tank what you would feed the first fish inhabitant. If ammonia stays at the same place then I'd say your tank has cycled. It doesn't mean your tank is stable though....
I see no problem with adding a Cuc as long as it's not the filter feeding type.
Bang do you think its time we do away with the phrase tank has cycled in a situation like his If his live rock has substancal bio filtration and can handle the organic brake down he will not see any ammonia or nitrites when he tests. I feel the new hobbyists may feel they must see an ammonia spike and nitrate spike to have their tank CYCLE. Does this make any sense to you it is post cocktail after all
 

bang guy

Moderator
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/2942753
Bang do you think its time we do away with the phrase tank has cycled in a situation like his If his live rock has substancal bio filtration and can handle the organic brake down he will not see any ammonia or nitrites when he tests. I feel the new hobbyists may feel they must see an ammonia spike and nitrate spike to have their tank CYCLE. Does this make any sense to you it is post cocktail after all
I think the phrase is valid. There is a biologic filtration system with a plentiful bacteria population. As you know, this is step 1. i agree 100% that a big ammonia spike is not a requirement or even beneficial.
Step 2 is allowing the bacteria populations to stabilize. They are fighting for territory right now. To become a stable biofilter they require food and time. An amount of food similar to what they will process when there's a fish bioload. An unpredictable amount of time. The beauty of reef tanks is that they are all as unique as a fingerprint. We can predict trends, but not individual events.
(Joe, I'm just bringing this up for the new hobbiests, not for you ;)
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by Bang Guy
http:///forum/post/2942803
I think the phrase is valid. There is a biologic filtration system with a plentiful bacteria population. As you know, this is step 1. i agree 100% that a big ammonia spike is not a requirement or even beneficial.
Step 2 is allowing the bacteria populations to stabilize. They are fighting for territory right now. To become a stable biofilter they require food and time. An amount of food similar to what they will process when there's a fish bioload. An unpredictable amount of time. The beauty of reef tanks is that they are all as unique as a fingerprint. We can predict trends, but not individual events.
(Joe, I'm just bringing this up for the new hobbiests, not for you ;)
I fully understand and agree. I just think that new hobbyists equate a cycled tank as one that must show an ammonia spike and nitrate spike and then have their nitrates go to zero or they are not cycled. When as you and I know the phrase really means that the tank can handle the degrading of organics with out introducing toxins
 

bang guy

Moderator
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/2942888
I fully understand and agree. I just think that new hobbyists equate a cycled tank as one that must show an ammonia spike and nitrate spike and then have there nitrates go to zero or they are not cycled. When as you and I know the phrase really means that the tank can handle the degrading of organics with out introducing toxins

Yep
 

scotikis

Member
CJ - I'll check for Phos in my water. I'm not using Carbon filtration. My h20 flows from the DT tank into bio balls prior to entering the area of my Fuge that houses my Calerpa.
As far as flow. I have a pump which is rated @ 1750 gph. I do have it turned down a bit now because I was faced with a microbubble issue and backing the pump off slightly helped the situation. Thats all of the flow that I have in the tank, no powerheads. My intent is to establish a FOWLR tank and based on my readings, 12-14 turns per hour would be sufficient. Do you agree with that?
I do not have a Skimmer.
As I mentioned previously, I was advised to leave my UV off until the tank cycled. In you opinion, should I turn it on @ this point?
Appreciate it. Scott
 
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