am I understanding auto topoffs?

[jacksonpt]

Been looking to add an auto topoff to my reef setup, so I've been doing a lot of searching and reading of old posts. Help me make sure I understand this, 'cause it seems waaay to easy ('bout time something reef related was easy )
I should be able to:
- put a bucket ontop of my tank
- put a powerhead in the bucket
- run tubing from the powerhead to the sump
- attach float valve to the tubing in sump
- fill bucket with topoff water
- plug in powerhead
is that really all there is to it? It would be nice to be able to put the bucket somewhere else, but that's the only place it can go with the way my tank is setup.
So, for the next obvious question - what's a good powerhead to use for this application? What's a good float valve?
Thanks.

 

[tony detroit]

You can't just plug in the powerhead. These units work much easier if you connect them to an RO filter. I assume you're talking about the Kent topoff unit. If you want to use an electric pump you are going to need a pressure activated solenoid. This will in turn switch your pump on. The way I am understanding you is that the pump is always going to be running. I could be wrong.

 

[jacksonpt]

ok, crap... I guess I don't understand them. Guess I've got more reading to do.

 

[dattong]

jacksonpt, actually you're basically rite about what you had described if your pump is controled by a float switch. In this case you can put your top-off water container anywhere you want.

 

[scottnj]

Jack,
There are a few options and your not all that far off. I assume by the bucket your talking about one filled with fresh RO/DI water to top off the tank right?
Then you have a few options:
You can sit the water container above the sump and let it gravity feed down through an airline tube and use a plastic valve to adjust the drip rate and try to match the drip rate to the evaperation of the tank. So if you evap out 1 gallon a day you would need to drip about .04 gallons an hour. This is not the most accurate way, and you probably evap more during the day then at night, but its simple and inexpensive to set-up.
You can put the water container above the sump and gravity feed it to the sump and use a float valve. A float valve is just a plastic float which will cover the hole stopping the flow when the sump is 'full'. Salt build up can block the flow rate, or keep the valve from fully closing on these set-ups emptying the entire water container into your sump.
A third option is to use a pump or power head, and a float switch. (Not a valve.) You can buy a magnetic float switch for aquariums already set up and ready to plug in or you can wire it yourself if so inclinded. You could also use a bilge pump float switch for a boat. If you go that route, the water container does not need to be above the sump, just as long as the pump/powerhead has enough ummmph to pump into the sump. Also, the best bet here would be a dosing pump as it pumps slowly, or a small hobby pump, or use a ball valve on the line to limit how fast the pump can move the water into the sump. (The concern here being if the float switch fails in the on position you have the potential to flood the tank.
All three have some pros and cons. I went with a float switch on mine, partly so I didnt have to get the container above the sump. I also used two switches so that they both need to be in the on position in order for the pump to pump for additional safety.
-Scott

 

[jacksonpt]

Thanks scott... that's some good info. The dual float switch sounds like a good idea. I'm kind of a dummy in this area if you couldn't tell, but how do the float switches control when the pump runs?
Any pictures and additional details about your setup?

 

[bigmac]

Be vewy vewy carefull Setting up a proper top off system can benifit your reef tank, setting up an improper system can wipe it out. The problem with using a system like the one you suggested is you'll be filling the bucket everyday...depending on the bucket size and tank size.
All the ideas suggested are subject to failure...Using a float switch along with a powerhead is what failed for me, twice in a week. Both times were my fault. The key is to make it as fool proof as possible and expect it to fail. An easy safe gaurd (it can still fail) for the powerhead and float switch combo is to add a needle valve at the end of your output line. Adjust the drip rate a little above evaporation and your set. Hopefully if the switch fails you'll catch it before the sump overflows.
I use a combination of a few ideas. I run my RODI unit off a solenoid controlled by a timer. The timer is set to run 180 minutes twice a week. This fills a 35 gal RODI water holding drum outside the window of my tank. (I have to check this about once a month to insure the drum is staying filled) I top off my sump using a Litermeter (dosing pump) set to pump a little faster then evaporation. The Litermeter is controlled by a sipedone float switch. If both of those were to fail I use another float switch to shut down the pump if the level in the sump gets to high. Its a great system that needs little care.
I run this through a large MyReef Kalk reactor.

 

[scottnj]

Big Mac, sounds like you have a lot of fail safes built in. I agree, they are great, but can also cause all sorts of trouble.
As mentioned on my set-up I use dual float switches for a fail safe. I would love to have it all hooked to a RO/DI unit to supply water, but thats a bit too lofty at the moment.
So I use a plastic container from staples designed to store files. Its clear plastic, holds about 3 gallons of water and has a lid that latches on. I have a small hobby pump which is for fountains, and it is set about an inch off the bottom of the container. With my evap rate I need to check the container every 3 days. I wanted this size container so I could dose Kalk through it as well.
Jackson, I can try to take some pics for you if you want. I made a goal post if you will from PVC pipe to hold the float switches in the sump. (Need to put them where the water level should remain constant.) Also, I put them a little away from one another so that water turbulance wouldn't cause the pump to falsely cycle on and off. They are basically a magnetically opereated switch, so when the float drops with the water level the switch turns on and the pump pumps. Once the level floats back to where it belongs the switch triggers to off and shuts off the pump. (Again, on my set-up both have to be in the ON position in order for the pump to run, it cuts down on cycling from water turbulance some, as well as acts as a fail safe should one switch stick in the on position.)
-Scott

 

[bigmac]

Originally posted by ScottNJ
Big Mac, sounds like you have a lot of fail safes built in. I agree, they are great, but can also cause all sorts of trouble.

What would those troubles be?

 

[sebae0]

i have a 20 gallon rubbermaid with a float valve connected to my ro/di unit that i controll daily to add water to the makeup container.then i have a float switch in my sump connected to a mag 2.5 when the level in the sump drops the float switch kicks in and adds water to tank, because my make up container is so big i just turn the ro/di unit on for a little while every day to keep it full.
when i went on vacation just left it running so as to not run out and haven't had any problems for over a year.

 

[sanangelofish2]

This is very low tec but this is how i do it. I took a pvc pipe cut it off the hieght of where i wanted the water to fill.
Then i took a i think its a 3 gallon or 2 gallon water bottle and drilled a hole in it and i turn it upside down so water only comes out when the neck is out of the water cost was about 4 dollars i think. works great i refill about every other day or so i guess i could use a bigger bottle

 

[scottnj]

Originally posted by bigmac
What would those troubles be?
Mac,
Not referring to your system, but to your comments on how a poorly put together auto top off can cause problems. Be it flooding the tank outright, not replenishing when its supposed to, etc.
As I said, it sounds like you put a bunch of time in thinking yours out and have a lot of fail safes built into it.
-Scott

 

[bigmac]

your 100% correct on that brother........I flooded my tank room twice in a week with 35 gal of water both times..both times because of no backup system.

 

[marvida]

I just installed an auto top off on one of my tanks. It has a float switch controlling a Maxi 1200 that sits in a 4 gallon bucket. One thing to keep in mind, if your resevoir is below tank level, is to keep the end of the line that delivers the water to the tank out of the water so that it won't siphon back into the bucket.

 

[bigmac]

also keep in mind that if the resevoir is above the tanksump level, once the pump starts up a siphon will occure empting the resevoir and voiding the float switch and pump.

 

[starfishjackedme]

I have two float switches, on for low water level to fill the display - and the other up side down to cut off an overflow situation. I had a float switch stick once and flooded my living room. Now i use the back up of a second floatswitch inverted to kill the circuit if the top off float sticks again.

 

[tony detroit]

Kent marines float valve kit's work good.

 

[scottk]

Go to californiareefs.com and get the float switch package with the snail guard. About $30 or so and it gets sent to your house fairly quickly. It is quality stuff. Use a container to hold the water/kalkwasser. Mount the switch, plug in a powerhead and let it rip.
Got one, got it set up and have had no problems ever since.
I put the return for mine in the refugium to mix the water a little better before it gets to the tank.
There is a good picture of the set up on the website and also in PSYCH1's "Tank of the Month" on -- from last year (May?June?).

 

[joejubee]

sanangelofish2, could you post an image of your waterbottle setup? The way I envision it is a bottle "hovering" with its neck just under the surface, so when the water level falls, you get a couple of "glub-glub-glubs" and you're back to square one right?
If you could post an image, that would be cool.
Thanks,
Joe

 

[newfishliny]

:cheer: :thinking:
I have read so many times how our sumps over flow; from electricity shuting off or top off failing .
well my project is to drill a hole in my sump and install a bulk head fitting: from there attach a hose that goes to at least a five gallon container.YES the cantainer needs to be lower then the sump.
IF YOU CAN RUN THE HOSE TO A AREA WHICH WILL DRAIN AND NOT HARM ANYHTING , YOU CAN ALSO PUT A BOAT BILGE PUMP IN THE CONTAINER AND PUMP IT TO ANOTHER AREA.

THATS MY THOUGHTS , WHAT DO YOU THINK
NEW FISH