Anyone with 120 Gallon Reef

robertmathern

Active Member
Originally Posted by King_Neptune
http:///forum/post/3203805
Never enough room is right. I built my stand with 40 inches of room inside...and last night I had to turn down an awesome skimmer because it was 8inches too tall.
8'' stoped you man thats when you have to improvise lol. I have lots of room ballasts are all in the old computer armour and under the tank is a 55 gal fuge and an RODI thats it. with a 180 gal tank that leave lots of realestate.
 

cam78

Active Member
IMO drilling the bottom of the tank requires making sure no critters get stick to the screen and also make sure they are easily accessible for maintenance.
Drill which tank at the bottom? Display? AM I missing something? Isn't this what the two overflows are for? Also What do you think the best way is to get the water from the sump to the Refuge? Just use gravity, let it drain into the refuge?
This si the sump I will be using: http://budurl.com/ReefReadySump
Its a 30 Gallon (36x16x12) Oceanic Reef Ready Sump (model 2)
 

robertmathern

Active Member
I have to be honest here. I would not use the 30 gal. if you are going down a floor then go big real big. Think of it this way my 180 has close to the same footprint. When I shut off my pump the water level in the 55 sump raises about 2'' and its about 2' of plumbing. So in a 30 your looking about 4'' and thats not even counting the 1 floor of plumbing that will have to drain. Now you talking close to 5-5.5'' thats half the water in that tank. not worth the effort. I would go a 75 gal
 

cam78

Active Member
Originally Posted by robertmathern
http:///forum/post/3205012
I have to be honest here. I would not use the 30 gal. if you are going down a floor then go big real big. Think of it this way my 180 has close to the same footprint. When I shut off my pump the water level in the 55 sump raises about 2'' and its about 2' of plumbing. So in a 30 your looking about 4'' and thats not even counting the 1 floor of plumbing that will have to drain. Now you talking close to 5-5.5'' thats half the water in that tank. not worth the effort. I would go a 75 gal
Does it matter I will also have a 55 refuge it will be draining into as well. The thirty will most likely just be my filtration, bio balls, pads then the refuge will have sand bed, LR, Chaeto, and then skimmer.
 

scopus tang

Active Member
Originally Posted by CAM78
http:///forum/post/3205018
Does it matter I will also have a 55 refuge it will be draining into as well. The thirty will most likely just be my filtration, bio balls, pads then the refuge will have sand bed, LR, Chaeto, and then skimmer.
IMPO, I would put the skimmer in the sump, not the fuge; sucking pods into your skimmer isn't going to help your pod population.
Originally Posted by CAM78

http:///forum/post/3205002
IMO drilling the bottom of the tank requires making sure no critters get stick to the screen and also make sure they are easily accessible for maintenance.
Drill which tank at the bottom? Display? AM I missing something? Isn't this what the two overflows are for? Also What do you think the best way is to get the water from the sump to the Refuge? Just use gravity, let it drain into the refuge?
This si the sump I will be using: http://budurl.com/ReefReadySump
Its a 30 Gallon (36x16x12) Oceanic Reef Ready Sump (model 2)
I think he was referring to my post about plumbing the two tanks together. If you can get your sump up high enough, gravity feed into the sump will be more than adequate. You'll have to have an overflow set up in the fuge so that the fuge doesn't drain into the sump completely when the power shuts off. If I had unlimited space, I would create a third prechamber out of a separate container with the pads and LR, and then gravity drain that into your sump w/skimmer, have a seperate chamber with the return pump, drop the overflow from the fuge into that seperate chamber and then use the return pump to return water to the DT. JMO
 

cam78

Active Member
Originally Posted by scopus tang
http:///forum/post/3205032
impo, i would put the skimmer in the sump, not the fuge; sucking pods into your skimmer isn't going to help your pod population.
I think he was referring to my post about plumbing the two tanks together. If you can get your sump up high enough, gravity feed into the sump will be more than adequate. You'll have to have an overflow set up in the fuge so that the fuge doesn't drain into the sump completely when the power shuts off. If i had unlimited space, i would create a third prechamber out of a separate container with the pads and lr, and then gravity drain that into your sump w/skimmer, have a seperate chamber with the return pump, drop the overflow from the fuge into that seperate chamber and then use the return pump to return water to the dt. Jmo
so do sump to refuge then from refuge to a third container the pump from there to display? What is the point of the third container? Thank you for your input.
 

cam78

Active Member
Also looking around I haven't seen too many refuges separate from sumps. Is this uncommon to have a sump tank then a whole separate refuge tank?
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by CAM78
http:///forum/post/3205122
Also looking around I haven't seen too many refuges separate from sumps. Is this uncommon to have a sump tank then a whole separate refuge tank?
As my buddy Randy can tell you it is the way I and we configured my setup. Sump and separate refuge.Point of info,do all your sump refuge work before you drill and bulkhead for your return pump. once that work is complete then position your return pump and mark where you need to drill the tank feeding the return pump so it is on a level line. Dont forget any damping materiel you will use under your pump
 

cam78

Active Member
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/3205150
As my buddy Randy can tell you it is the way I and we configured my setup. Sump and separate refuge.Point of info,do all your sump refuge work before you drill and bulkhead for your return pump. once that work is complete then position your return pump and mark where you need to drill the tank feeding the return pump so it is on a level line. Dont forget any damping materiel you will use under your pump
Can you post pictures of yours Joe? Thanks
 

scopus tang

Active Member
Originally Posted by CAM78
http:///forum/post/3205043
so do sump to refuge then from refuge to a third container the pump from there to display? What is the point of the third container? Thank you for your input.
Nope. main overflow from DT comes into basement (hardline PVC). Splits, with a ball valve on each (allows you to control flow). Main, larger overflow line drains into the first seperate chamber (this chamber is the a rubbermaid or glass tank (think a five to 10 gallon container full of LR, with a blue filter pad covering top, so anything large coming through overflow catches on the filter pad). Drill this container and set up a L line so that the lowest level if the system shuts off is close to the top. Water dumps through a distribution set-up over the top of the filter pad, dumps into the tank and is filter over the LR, when it fills it overflows and gravity feeds into the first sump chamber (seperate tank). The first sump chamber contains the in sump skimmer. Seperate 1st chamber from second with dual baffle system to prevent air bubbles. 2nd chamber of sump holds your return pump if you do a in sump return pump. If you use a external pump, the pump can either be set up so its plumbed to this bubble free chamber or you can simply drop a suction hard line into this chamber from the external pump with the pump sitting up on a platform beside the sump.
Fuge is your seperate 55 gallon tank, drilled and plumbed with an overflow. Sits higher than the sump so it also gravity feeds into the return chamber of the sump so that pods are swept in the water and returned to the DT via the return pump without being sucked into the skimmer. The second smaller T off your main DT overflow provides the flow into the fuge (flow rate regulated by the ball valve), and gravity allows it to overflow into your sump. You'll have to do an overflow so the Fuge doesn't empty into the sump when the power fails or is shut off.
I'd draw you a diagram, but cant download it from home. Won't be back to better internet connection till Monday.
Water changes are totally easy to perform. Shut off the ball valve to the fuge, drain out whatever volume you want to change out from the fuge, refill and restore flow. no draining of DT to perform water changes.
FYI, Joe's seperate fuge is set-up on the same level as his sump, not quite the same system as you are going for.
Why the seperate chamber for LR? More water volume in the whole system and more room for LR potentially. You could accomplish something very similar with a 3 chamber sump, 1st chamber LR rubble, second chamber skimmer and third chamber return line; thus eliminating the need for a seperate container. But at the cost of water volume and water holding capacity in your sump.
Oh yeah, chances are good you'll have to additional powerheads in the fuge in order to keep that large volume of water moving or you're going to have issues with cyano.
 

cam78

Active Member
That is Awesome, thank you for the response. I would totally LOVE a diagram. I wanna set it up the way you suggest because all of you guys are SO knowledgeable!! Thank you please let me know on MOnday if you have some sort of diagram or something. If not I still appreciate it.
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
At my age I need visuals .I cant wait to see Randy's diagram also. Some thoughts on my end. I am assuming your DT is already drilled for an overflow box. Does it also have holes drilled in it for the returns? You are going to want a straight shot coming into and leaving your main external pump. The way I see it is You will or should have two overflow boxes tied into one feed line. ON the feed from your sump/refuge you should have a short length of PVC from your bulkhead to a true union ball valve.(a ball valve with a union at each end incorporated into the body.) then pump. On the discharge side a short length of PVC and true union valve. This will allow you to shut the valves on either side of the pump and remove the pump without losing any water.
AS far as pump size. I think you are looking at a plumbing layout like this. Most pumps have a 90 degree in-fluent and discharge set up so the water from your sump/refuge will come into the pump on a straight line. if you can position your sump/refuge so the discharge is going straight up to one of your return lines your then need a T fitting continuing up the T you will need a 90 degree elbow to a lock-line fittings so you can articulate your returns in your tank. Back at the T filling you will need a horizontal PVC to the other side of your tank, an elbow, vertical PVC, elbow and lock- line fittings. NOTE all of the fittings involved will add friction and head pressure to your pump this has to be taken into consideration when ordering your pump.
This may seem a little confusing but its really not. Once you get a working drawing posted it is much simpler to visualize.
Note to disscuess later. The longer and straighter distance you can get by with between your sump/rufug and pump the bette. This length reduces turbulence at the intake of the pump.
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
At my age I need visuals .I cant wait to see Randy's diagram also. Some thoughts on my end. I am assuming your DT is already drilled for an overflow box. Does it also have holes drilled in it for the returns? You are going to want a straight shot coming into and leaving your main external pump. The way I see it is You will or should have two overflow boxes tied into one feed line. ON the feed from your sump/refuge you should have a short length of PVC from your bulkhead to a true union ball valve.(a ball valve with a union at each end incorporated into the body.) then pump. On the discharge side a short length of PVC and true union valve. This will allow you to shut the valves on either side of the pump and remove the pump without losing any water.
AS far as pump size. I think you are looking at a plumbing layout like this. Most pumps have a 90 degree so the water from your sump/refuge will come into the pump on a straight line. if you can position your sump/refuge so the discharge is going straight up to one of your return lines your then need a T fitting continuing up the T you will need a 90 degree elbow to a lock-line fittings so you can articulate your returns in your tank. Back at the T filling you will need a horizontal PVC to the other side of your tank, an elbow, vertical PVC, elbow and lock- line fittings. NOTE all of the fittings involved will add friction and head pressure to your pump this has to be taken into consideration when ordering your pump.
This may seem a little confusing but its really not. Once you get a working drawing posted it is much simpler to visualize.
Note to discuses later. You should try to have the longest and straightest distance between your sump and in-fluent side of the return pump. this will cut down on turbulence at the in-fluent side of the pump
 

cam78

Active Member
florida joe;3205618 said:
At my age I need visuals .I cant wait to see Randy's diagram also. Some thoughts on my end. I am assuming your DT is already drilled for an overflow box. Does it also have holes drilled in it for the returns?
Answer: It is predrilled and has two over flows at the rear of the tank. Its a AGA 120. I have to re read your post to understand it. I am torn between reading this and about to watch the Jets game.
BTW I was wondering who Randy was, I am so happy he is the one helping me out on this. Thank you so much Joe and Randy. I know a decent amount on Reefs but never had a overflow/sump tank. Im excited though!! Wish you guys could help me with this project here.
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
CAM78;3205637 said:
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/3205618
At my age I need visuals .I cant wait to see Randy's diagram also. Some thoughts on my end. I am assuming your DT is already drilled for an overflow box. Does it also have holes drilled in it for the returns?
Answer: It is predrilled and has two over flows at the rear of the tank. Its a AGA 120. I have to re read your post to understand it. I am torn between reading this and about to watch the Jets game.
BTW I was wondering who Randy was, I am so happy he is the one helping me out on this. Thank you so much Joe and Randy. I know a decent amount on Reefs but never had a overflow/sump tank. Im excited though!! Wish you guys could help me with this project here.
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