Are RI/DO Sytems Absolutely Necessary?

J

jdlane

Guest
Is an RI/DO system an absolute must? If so what is the most economical, best bang for your buck system for a 29 gallon tank? What exactly does one of these systems do anyway? I know this is an expensive hobby but I would like to limit pricey add on's that aren't crucial so that I can concentrate on buying the fun stuff like fish, live rock, crabs, shrimp etc. Thanks for any info!!!
 

justinx

Active Member
an RO/DI unit has numerous benefits and it significantly improves the quality of tap water. An RO unit works by passing water through a very fine grained membrane at rather high pressure. What results is that rather pure water is all that passes through. The RO unit removes about 80% (depending on a few factors) of dissolved solids from the water such as copper, chlorine, silicates, all things that are harmful to a reef tank.
Then if your unit has it, the DI portion (deionization) passes the now cleaned RO water over a resin that removes 99% of the remaining dissolved solids, in particular, phosphates.
Now what does this all mean? Obviously the purer the water, the better right, and as far as technology stands, an RO/DI unit is the most economical way to do so. In the longrun, an RO/DI will prevent algae break outs such as diatoms and hair algae, both nuisances that plauge many reefers, and are difficult to rid.
There are alternatives to purchasing an RO unit. You can usually buy RO water from the store, but as you can imagine this sucks to carry bucket after bucket of water back and forth. Sometimes, grocery stores sell RO water, but these units are not always properly maintained which can affect the quality of water.
To sum up, RO water is almost a must. you can use tap water if you wish, but if you are serious about reefing, i PROMISE you that you will kick yourself in the teeth for doing so.
This site sells RO units as well as many others. ---- often has good units as well from an "h20 guru" see what he has to offer for the best bang for you buck.
HTH
 

timo

Member
The "Dry Goods" section of SWF.com, the 3rd button down on the left of the screen, is open again, and offers them for sale. There is also a picture.:cool:
 

justinx

Active Member
There are a number of options. You could use a bucket with lid such as a bulk salt bucket. Garbage cans, or rubbermaid containers. Anything with a lid that seals air tight works best.
 

kmax

New Member

Originally posted by JustinX
There are a number of options. You could use a bucket with lid such as a bulk salt bucket. Garbage cans, or rubbermaid containers. Anything with a lid that seals air tight works best.

Thanks. It just puzzles me what people do when they run out of containers. :)
 

col

Active Member
Is an RI/DO system an absolute must?
Not in all cases. If you have a fish only system you can try tapwater and see how you get on with it. If you run into algae or other water problems then you can point the finger at the tapwater.
Test your tapwater for Nitrates and Phosphates - these will definitley cause problems if there.
If on the other hand you have corals etc that need the highest spec water - then an RO/DI is absolutely necessary.
 

broncofish

Active Member
I use a cheap single stage RO unit. Cost like 60 bucks or something like that. No diatoms, no algae, no cyano, and trates trites ammo are all zero. Heck if one of the clownfish breeding books discusses how tap water users have more luck with Anemones than RO/DI users. I think there is a complicated balance of not removing to much, but not introducing, phosphates and nitrates.
 

kpogue

Member
For a 29 gal system you can buy RO/DI water from a reputable water co. FAR cheaper and easier than buying a RO/DI unit. I use a local company, pick it up myself and pay $3 for 5 gals. If I had it delivered it would be $4.75. I have a 30 reef and a 125 reef and I really don't want to go through the hassel of making my own when I can get top quality water cheap. I have NEVER had hair aglae, diatoms, slime, scum or cooties in my tanks. I attribute that to the water and the flow. I haven't said it in awhile so I'll say it now. I believe there are 2 areas where you CANNOT scrimp in this hobby - WATER & LIGHTING. If you do, you'll pay for it later.
 

justinx

Active Member
I have NEVER had hair aglae, diatoms, slime, scum or cooties in my tanks.
HA HA . . . said the algae god's. you are doomed now!!!
(better find a nice piece of wood and start knockin'!:D :D
 

kpogue

Member
Oh, I forgot to mention I hang Wolfbane around the hood to keep away the algae gods - it's work for 9 years? 10 years?...
 

sterling

Member
I don't have a R/O unit. I just go to Dominick's and buy their drinking water in 2 1/2 gallon jugs. It is R/O and it has always worked fine.
My tank is in my office and I've already taken up so much space with the tank and it's other supplies i don't dare take up any more space, hubby will.......well, he will.
 

joerdie

Member
i know that i will probably be flamed for this but i have never used an ro/di unit. the reasion is that i have had my city water tested and it comes out without nitrAte, silicates (sp), or phosphate. i live in cincinnati (and i hate it) but the water here is really good.
p.s. in hobby for 5yrs and havent had any alge problems yet
 
S

simm

Guest
same hre. However mine is well water and it has tested well. I dont have an RO. I just treat my fresh water. I have not had problems with my tank yet.
 

joerdie

Member
to test fresh water you could take the water to a good lfs and ask for a trAte, phosphate, pH test. i dont know of any water systems that have high leavels of amonia (unless your getting it from a stagnent source. I accually took my tap water and tested it with a fresh water test, then took it to 3 or 4 lfs's in my area to quadrupal check. to my suprise. I aint got no phosphate!!! I aint got no nitrAte!!! (i know im an idiot):D
 
Top