Beginner's Equipment Guidebook
- Thread starter tony detroit
- Start date
tony detroit
Active Member
Something else useful that I forgot to add to the skimmer section that I learned the hard way through trial.
When using a needle wheel skimmer, the further below the water line the less air the pump will pull.
If the pumps is down a foot from the top of the water the water pressure puts pressure on the air hose and somewhat collapses it. You will find a substantial increase in bubbles and air intake when your inlet pump is just below the water level.
This holds true for sedra pumps, asm skimmers, eure reefs deltec, h and s, etc. All needlewheel pumps. The only exceptions to this would be those using ridgid hose, which I haven't seen yet.
When using a needle wheel skimmer, the further below the water line the less air the pump will pull.
If the pumps is down a foot from the top of the water the water pressure puts pressure on the air hose and somewhat collapses it. You will find a substantial increase in bubbles and air intake when your inlet pump is just below the water level.
This holds true for sedra pumps, asm skimmers, eure reefs deltec, h and s, etc. All needlewheel pumps. The only exceptions to this would be those using ridgid hose, which I haven't seen yet.
squidd
Active Member
I have run a number of spray bars on a number of different tanks
I have run several different size piping at various lengths...
I have run multiple small holes...Drilled holes larger....
I have run 1 outlet, 2 outlet "T"s, 4-8 outlet "spreader bars"....
I have also "measured" the flow rates of the different setups...
There is a tradeoff in having the flow "distribution" of a spray bar
And that is in a measurable loss of flow potential...upwards of 30% depending on the restrictiveness of the setup...
Many small holes are the worse...1/4" or less -30%
Multiple "bigger holes" aren't much better... up to 1/2" -25%
3/4" or larger "multiple" outlets (4 to 8) are "starting" to get better -12-15%
Two outlet "T"s of "same size as main run aren't too bad -5-6%
And a single outlet of proper size pipe is the best and "Base" number for the comparisons...
I am confident your "results" will not vary much from these numbers...
I have run several different size piping at various lengths...
I have run multiple small holes...Drilled holes larger....
I have run 1 outlet, 2 outlet "T"s, 4-8 outlet "spreader bars"....
I have also "measured" the flow rates of the different setups...
There is a tradeoff in having the flow "distribution" of a spray bar
And that is in a measurable loss of flow potential...upwards of 30% depending on the restrictiveness of the setup...
Many small holes are the worse...1/4" or less -30%
Multiple "bigger holes" aren't much better... up to 1/2" -25%
3/4" or larger "multiple" outlets (4 to 8) are "starting" to get better -12-15%
Two outlet "T"s of "same size as main run aren't too bad -5-6%
And a single outlet of proper size pipe is the best and "Base" number for the comparisons...
I am confident your "results" will not vary much from these numbers...
squidd
Active Member
My thoughts of filtration...
Large (adaquate) quantity of Live Rock and SSB for Biological filtration (suface area for Bacteria)...High Flow , distributed through out the tank to keep deitrus suspended and removed from MT,promote gaseous exchange and maintain oxygen levels...a Large sump and LARGER Fuge with Macros for malnutrient removal through export (denitrification) and a Killer Skimmer to remove Mass quantities of DOCs (organics) prior to decomposition...
With a well balanced system, no other "filtration devices" (bioballs or biological "media") are necessary...Other than the ability to run Chemical Media (carbon or phosphate removers) from time to time, best done in a Fluidized bed (or converted canister) type system...
Large (adaquate) quantity of Live Rock and SSB for Biological filtration (suface area for Bacteria)...High Flow , distributed through out the tank to keep deitrus suspended and removed from MT,promote gaseous exchange and maintain oxygen levels...a Large sump and LARGER Fuge with Macros for malnutrient removal through export (denitrification) and a Killer Skimmer to remove Mass quantities of DOCs (organics) prior to decomposition...
With a well balanced system, no other "filtration devices" (bioballs or biological "media") are necessary...Other than the ability to run Chemical Media (carbon or phosphate removers) from time to time, best done in a Fluidized bed (or converted canister) type system...
squidd
Active Member
You mean the "Anti-siphon Hole"...?? (I don't believe in check valves for SW tanks)...
If the return is slow and/or not too powerful straight down is fine...
If it has any force at all you may want to "direct" it (turning it into usable flow) with an output nozzle of some sort...
I would suggest a 45* elbow rather than a 90* as it restricts flow less and will push oxygenated water "out" into the tank and towards the bottom rather than straight down where it might "wash out" the sand..
If the return is slow and/or not too powerful straight down is fine...
If it has any force at all you may want to "direct" it (turning it into usable flow) with an output nozzle of some sort...
I would suggest a 45* elbow rather than a 90* as it restricts flow less and will push oxygenated water "out" into the tank and towards the bottom rather than straight down where it might "wash out" the sand..
jcarroll
Member
is there a certain direction you're supposed to direct it? It makes an awesome current. I don't even need a powerhead with it. It's directed toward the front of the tank, but the current is pulled toward the overflow box on the opposite end of the tank, sound like it'll work out?
J
jrisgr8
Guest
I wish I would have seen this before!! Great info. Here's a bump!
F
formula2
Guest
Thanks so much for the awesome info!!!
tony detroit
Active Member
Forgot I even wrote this
Couple of updates since I wrote this:
1. My sulphur de-nitrator is absolutely awesome, Europeans have been running them for years, they're just starting to make a dent in the U.S. market. They work, and they work very well. I wish I would have had one back when I had my agressive tanks.
2. I've read several reports of Coralife UV sterilizers catching fire.
3. I don't believe I stated it earlier but 250W Metal Halide lighting will suffice for most tanks unless they are deeper than 24''. 175's will work for a large majority of corals, but in not so deep tanks, and in good water quality / clarity only. If you run 400's you can most likely count on needing a chiller, speaking of chillers, that brings us to number 4.
4. Chillers function best in rooms away from the tank. They dissolve the heat they remove around the unit itself.
5. Fans mounted properly can replace the need for a chiller, they can drop tanks 4 degrees or even more when used right or in series.
6. When you purchase a high end skimmer, especially on larger tanks, try to run it in the sump if you can. I see a lot of people getting good skimmers lately and overflowing them on the carpet, then they starve the return pump for water.
If you're going to run it external at least make sure you have a collection cup with a drain line installed going to a large bucket or floor drain. Also make sure you have an auto top-off unit. You'd be surprised what can happen while you're at work, you'll come home to a sump missing 6'' or water. Within half an hour a high-end skimmer can suck out half a gallon if a anemone/clam goes the way they do.
Remember WATER QUALITY is what makes corals grow. Lighting comes second.
If anybody has anything else to add to this that I forgot/missed feel free. I'll pop it up time to time and add things to it that I remember here and there.
Couple of updates since I wrote this:
1. My sulphur de-nitrator is absolutely awesome, Europeans have been running them for years, they're just starting to make a dent in the U.S. market. They work, and they work very well. I wish I would have had one back when I had my agressive tanks.
2. I've read several reports of Coralife UV sterilizers catching fire.
3. I don't believe I stated it earlier but 250W Metal Halide lighting will suffice for most tanks unless they are deeper than 24''. 175's will work for a large majority of corals, but in not so deep tanks, and in good water quality / clarity only. If you run 400's you can most likely count on needing a chiller, speaking of chillers, that brings us to number 4.
4. Chillers function best in rooms away from the tank. They dissolve the heat they remove around the unit itself.
5. Fans mounted properly can replace the need for a chiller, they can drop tanks 4 degrees or even more when used right or in series.
6. When you purchase a high end skimmer, especially on larger tanks, try to run it in the sump if you can. I see a lot of people getting good skimmers lately and overflowing them on the carpet, then they starve the return pump for water.
If you're going to run it external at least make sure you have a collection cup with a drain line installed going to a large bucket or floor drain. Also make sure you have an auto top-off unit. You'd be surprised what can happen while you're at work, you'll come home to a sump missing 6'' or water. Within half an hour a high-end skimmer can suck out half a gallon if a anemone/clam goes the way they do.
Remember WATER QUALITY is what makes corals grow. Lighting comes second.
If anybody has anything else to add to this that I forgot/missed feel free. I'll pop it up time to time and add things to it that I remember here and there.
B
bwonder
Guest
This is great info!
BUMP:
BUMP:
stimpy4242
Member
Tony_detroit please contact me at phil@philipdepalo.com
Thanks
Thanks
keith burn
Active Member
Can someone please put a chart that gives all to test levels for my 75g reef tank
ph?salinity?calcium?ammonia?nitrate?nitrite?etc.
BTW, won't using carbon pull your ph down and pull out trace elements as well as all listed above?
ph?salinity?calcium?ammonia?nitrate?nitrite?etc.
BTW, won't using carbon pull your ph down and pull out trace elements as well as all listed above?