Best salt

aztec reef

Active Member
Originally Posted by Mr_X
http:///forum/post/2800943
correct. i don't add anything. at the end of the week(i do weekly waterchanges), my calcium is still up.
Cool, when I run out of kalk or when I decide not to use a calcium reactor, I will most defenetly try +ceanic.
According to u , all u need is +canic salt and weekly water changes....
No calcium,magnesium,alk, stablelizers..Nor the need of a calcium/alk reactor.
Great innovation.
 

addicted4life

New Member
I am positive since I switched from IO to Tropic marin I have never seen a dirty bucket after mixing my salt. Never could figure what that brown residue was that would settle in my IO buckets after mixing. I also was looking for higher calcium and magnesium levels when I made the switch. Not to mention the savings in buying that big bag o salt. I think it works out I get 100 gallons of extra salt mix for the price of 50 gallons. Course I don't get that pretty bucket, and the bag is a monster to get into a car.
 

mr_x

Active Member
Originally Posted by Aztec Reef
http:///forum/post/2800972
Cool, when I run out of kalk or when I decide not to use a calcium reactor, I will most defenetly try +ceanic.
According to u , all u need is +canic salt and weekly water changes....
No calcium,magnesium,alk, stablelizers..Nor the need of a calcium/alk reactor.
Great innovation.

there are probably 10 people that frequent this forum who have seen my setup. they will attest to no, kalk or calcium reactor here.
i do change about 50 gallons a week though.
 
Originally Posted by Mr_X
http:///forum/post/2800990
there are probably 10 people that frequent this forum who have seen my setup. they will attest to no, kalk or calcium reactor here.
i do change about 50 gallons a week though.
I agree 100 percent, no calcium reactor here, no adding kalk or any supplement, just weekly water changes with Red Sea Coral Pro Salt here.
 
Originally Posted by Mr_X
http:///forum/post/2800990
there are probably 10 people that frequent this forum who have seen my setup. they will attest to no, kalk or calcium reactor here.
i do change about 50 gallons a week though.

Yep, I am one of the lucky members that have seen your set up, and you are correct. I seen no trace of reactors or dosing equipment. And what a setup it is

I also have switched to Oceanic salt and my coraline growth has taken off!
 

aquaguy24

Active Member
i've used oceanic from the get go...although im a far cry from sps dominant...but i have a good amount of different types of corals and i do water changes about every 3 weeks ..15g....i always test my water before and after a water change...CA levels still high 430-415.. alk still at 12.. ph always remains around 8.2...ppl complain that oceanic give low alk reading but i have no problems there..
 

aztec reef

Active Member
Whatever works for u, that's the beauty of this hobby.
All I know its that a fully stocked reef(especially sps dominant) needs a constant balanced supply of cal/alk in order for coralines to grow lush and for corals/snails/tube worms and other crutaceans to lay down new layers of calcium carbonate.
This processes uses large amount of. Magnesium too.
So how's your magnesium,alk,?
It matters Cause alk,cal,magnesium are linked.
(You're talking about buffering capabilities here) especially in the absense of aragonite.
Animals Use calcium, not gallons of water.
U are the first person(I hear) with a large tank that relys primary on waterchanges for calcium stability.
I'm under the impresion that As corals/coraline/inverts grow, your calcium intake increases.
If u still using the same amount of calcium as u did when u started your tank, then your tank must not be that old. Or maybe its those large weekly water changes.
As a side note: why the need for such large waterchanges?
I mean, if levels stay good throughout the week, a weekly 50g waterchange is no better than a 25g weekly waterchange.
But I could not prove you wrong, cause you're the best judge for ur tank.
 

mr_x

Active Member
i do the large waterchanges because i feed the lps frequently, and also the fish, and because i do not want a calcium reactor, or have a need to add anything else. i haven't tested my water in a while, but everything was in acceptable levels the day before, and after the waterchange. i feel that it makes my tank a "no brainer". a 50 gallon waterchange assures me that my tank is always healthy. not to mention, it's really not that expensive, and it's very easy for me. i have a sink about 6' from the tank.
this particular 195 gallon i keep at this moment was started in august of '07. alot of the colonies i keep now were remnants from my 125 which was started in oct. of '06.
 

stanlalee

Active Member
Originally Posted by Aztec Reef
http:///forum/post/2801390
Whatever works for u.
and there lies the answer to this whole drawn out thread. somebody with a start up tank doesn't have nearly the same needs for salt as a guy with a yr old SPS tank. how many times are we going to hear I use oceanic because the calcium level keeps me from dosing only to hear the next guy say I'm using oceanic and my calcium is 580ppm help! same goes for Mg, Sr and alkalinity and its pointless to include most other elements into the equation because you, me nor scientist have a clue as to wether more or less than sea levels are harmful, helpful or indifferent.
I have used several salts from "basic" to "reef" and have swtiched abruptly from time to time and none made ANY noticeable difference over the others so I've found the best salt for me is the one thats cheapest and locally available in abundance. that happens to be regular grade red sea salt. I started with IO like most people (LFS used to sell 50lb bags for $5.99), then I went to red sea cause I had to drive 35miles to get the 5.99 IO, then I tried the other brands of "reef" salts (only to find half the time regular red sea had just as much calcium, the main reason I tried them) and now I'm right back at red sea. even if it aint perfect its nothing a little kent pro buffer DKH and reef complete cant fix and they'll likely expire before I can use them up.
 

jemshores

Member
Originally Posted by Keebler
http:///forum/post/2800716
Yeah, salt is something you should decide on a stick with imo. You can't get curious and make a salt switch all of the sudden.
In reading all these it leads me to want to switch. I use Instant Ocean, have been for 8 months. Coming up on a water change (55G FOWLR w/ a few zoas) and can I switch? Will it change my chemistry that much? (do 10 gs every 3 weeks) Every is running so smooth don't want to want to "fix something that ain't broke. But at the same time, if there's a better salt out there (Oceanic) that would benefit my system, would like to try it...
 
V

vince-1961

Guest
My selection of salt was truly scientific! There were two buckets of salt on the shelf at the store. (I'm not including the tiny little bags of salt as I have a 220g DT.)
First time, I bought the cheaper one, Instant Ocean.
Second time, I bought the only one left on the shelf, CoraLife.
I noticed that no-one mentioned the CoraLife brand.
 

justdugan

Member
Originally Posted by Mr_X
http:///forum/post/2800990
there are probably 10 people that frequent this forum who have seen my setup. they will attest to no, kalk or calcium reactor here.
i do change about 50 gallons a week though.

I am one of them and I will be the first to say it is BEAUTIFUL!!!
 

spiderwoman

Active Member
We've used a 50/50 mixture of IO and Oceanic for a good while and have now switched to Tropic Marin. With shipping prices fixed with a few online vendors Reef Crystals became very competatively priced and we buy 2 buckets at a time.
Salifert for test kits.
 

addicted4life

New Member
There is no magic salt that matches the ocean perfectly.
I bet the ocean water in florida is different than the water in California.
IO might have claimed that, and it was a perfect match for wherever they got their saltwater sample.
As for testing multiple buckets of each salt goes, no other salt ever received the complaints IO and reef crystals got.
 

aztec reef

Active Member
Originally Posted by Stanlalee
http:///forum/post/2801422
and there lies the answer to this whole drawn out thread. somebody with a start up tank doesn't have nearly the same needs for salt as a guy with a yr old SPS tank. how many times are we going to hear I use oceanic because the calcium level keeps me from dosing only to hear the next guy say I'm using oceanic and my calcium is 580ppm help! same goes for Mg, Sr and alkalinity and its pointless to include most other elements into the equation because you, me nor scientist have a clue as to wether more or less than sea levels are harmful, helpful or indifferent.
I have used several salts from "basic" to "reef" and have swtiched abruptly from time to time and none made ANY noticeable difference over the others so I've found the best salt for me is the one thats cheapest and locally available in abundance. that happens to be regular grade red sea salt. I started with IO like most people (LFS used to sell 50lb bags for $5.99), then I went to red sea cause I had to drive 35miles to get the 5.99 IO, then I tried the other brands of "reef" salts (only to find half the time regular red sea had just as much calcium, the main reason I tried them) and now I'm right back at red sea. even if it aint perfect its nothing a little kent pro buffer DKH and reef complete cant fix and they'll likely expire before I can use them up.
I agree, as we all know every tank has different needs at different times, throughout. Tanks life span.
One thing I can say, its that wether u just started your reef yesterday or its been up and running for a few years.
We cannot rely on solely waterchanges to keep alk,cal,mag, balanced. Cause guess what? Eventually 2 part additives/ buffers/reactors will be needed(regardless of saltmix brand)
Just like aragonite is usefull in reefs, (as a natural buffer stablelizer). Since the equillibrium ph value of aragonite is the same as the ocean. It reacts on demand.
Supplying ph and mineral support to a system, before u get the chance to drop everything and run to the lfs To get that special salt.
First. One should understand the nutrient needs and their limits as to nutrient processing of their tanks.
Here's a few;
*natural and efficient natural nitrate reduction,
*self regulating carbon sources
*self regulating buffering capacity
*resident sulfur reduction and regenaration
*a source of trace elements
*a natural energy flux
*environmental equillibria
All this new salts are pointless.
I'm not the one making this new salt mixes, its the psudo scientists. Same ones that make all reef supplements. So obviously they think it matters, or else they would not continue to feed new hobbiests with all this crapola.
At least I'm not as clueless,
One thing I know, its that Natural reefs have lower concentrations of elements in water column, of which they inevitably thrive on.
.
Not to mention the tremendous
Teaming biodiversity in oceans compared to our enclosed environments.
.
So if you ask me?, I'm sticking with the laws of Nature..
Why would your ittle reef use more elements than the ocean.?
In addition, everyone gets plenty excess elements via foods.
Now, that's Something that doesn't take place in the oceans.( At least not daily).
unless ufos feed the oceans..
It all comes down to maintaining balanced cal,alk,mag levels.
Its not rocket science is it?
 

aztec reef

Active Member
Originally Posted by addicted4life
http:///forum/post/2801772
There is no magic salt that matches the ocean perfectly.
I bet the ocean water in florida is different than the water in California.
IO might have claimed that, and it was a perfect match for wherever they got their saltwater sample.
As for testing multiple buckets of each salt goes, no other salt ever received the complaints IO and reef crystals got.
We're not trying to match the ocean.we're trying to match tropical reef environment's chemistry.(Ecuador style)
 
V

vince-1961

Guest
Aw Man! Forget Ecuador. How about good old fashioned Georgia? (as in South Atlantic Bight)
Yee Haw!
 
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