janicebembry
Member
Can't seem to communicate well with anyone. Thanks anyway.
Beth, I give up.
- Thread starter janicebembry
- Start date
squirreloso
Member
i know how you feel
try reefcentral.com
they have a better turn around with responses
i lost all my fish due to velvet. it does look like dust compared to ich, which looks much larger like grains of salt. the dust can be anywhere from white, beige, tan, or yellow.
copper is supposed to work, but for my fish it was too late
try reefcentral.com
they have a better turn around with responses
i lost all my fish due to velvet. it does look like dust compared to ich, which looks much larger like grains of salt. the dust can be anywhere from white, beige, tan, or yellow.
copper is supposed to work, but for my fish it was too late
1journeyman
Active Member
Janice, I'm sorry you are frustrated. Have you tried a different computer? The thread linked has pictures that work. The issue is on your end.
moonsoonliang
New Member
squirreloso
Member
yes the pictures work for me too, however there are no pictures or article about marine velvet at all.
so if your looking for pics of marine velvet its true it is not there.
they give alot of pictures of brooklynella though...just not for velvet, which is odd, shouldnt velvet be on that list since its so common?
so if your looking for pics of marine velvet its true it is not there.
they give alot of pictures of brooklynella though...just not for velvet, which is odd, shouldnt velvet be on that list since its so common?
What symptoms did your fish have squirrel?
I've yet to find a picture of velvet, and I'm not the only one looking for one. It is not a common fish disease.
It will look like a light dusted powder on the fish, white or golden in color. The fish's gills will be red, swollen, and the fish will be gilling rapidly.
I've yet to find a picture of velvet, and I'm not the only one looking for one. It is not a common fish disease.
It will look like a light dusted powder on the fish, white or golden in color. The fish's gills will be red, swollen, and the fish will be gilling rapidly.
michaeltx
Moderator
from my understanding of this disease is that once it progresses to this point it usually to late to do anything about it.
The life cycle of A. ocellatum
A. ocellatum has a three-stage life cycle: parasitic trophonts, encysted reproductive tomonts and free-swimming infective dinospores. The parasitic trophont attaches to the one or more epithelial cells via rhizoids. It appears that nutrients are absorbed via the rhizoids. After the trophont matures, it detaches from the host, retracts it rhizoids, forms a cyst and becomes a tomont. The tomont may divide up to 8 times producing 256 dinospores (Noga and Levy, 1995). The free-swimming dinospores seek out a fish host to infect and remain infective for at least 6 days at 26°C (Noga and Levy, 1995). Amyloodinium can complete its life cycle in under one week under optimal conditions (Noga and Levy, 1995).
Signs of amyloodiniosis
The signs of amyloodiniosis include respiratory difficulties, loss of appetite, swimming near the surface, scratching. As the gills are usually the primary site of infection, difficulty in breathing is the most common sign and may be the only sign before death. Heavy infections may also affect the skin, fins and eyes. The common name "marine velvet" comes from heavy infestations of the skin which may have a dusty appearance.
Mild infestations of 1 or 2 trophonts per gill filament cause few problems, however heavy infestations of up to 200 trophonts per gill filament cause severe damage to the gills, including inflammation, haemorrhage and tissue death. The fish usually die from a lack of oxygen within 12 hours of a heavy infestation. (Noga and Levy, 1995). Given the short life cycle, a mild infestation can become a heavy infestation in under a week.
Treatment for of amyloodiniosis
Chemotherapy is the only effective treatment for Amyloodinium, with copper being the most widely used. Copper will not affect trophonts or tomonts but is toxic to the dinospores (Noga and Levy, 1995). Free copper should be kept at 0.12-0.15 mg/L for at least 14 days, although 21 days is better to be certain of killing all dinospores and to ensure that all trophonts have become tomonts and all tomonts have excysted. Copper cannot be used in the presence of invertebrates and treatment should be performed in a hospital tank void of any calcium carbonate substrate. The copper level needs to be tested regularly to ensure that sufficient concentrations are maintained. Copper is also toxic to the fish and care must be taken to avoid overdose.
Of all the copper medications available on the market, Cupramine by Seachem appears to be the safest. It is a complexed copper and is more stable that copper sulfate, copper citrate or chelated copper. As it is complexed, the total copper concentration should be maintained at 0.5 mg/L for three weeks.
Noga and Levy (1995) report on success with the use of chloroquine diphosphate (an antimalarial medicine). It was found to be very safe and effective in killing dinospores on excystment. It is non-toxic to fish, but very toxic to algae and many invertebrates, so, like copper, should only be used in an hospital tank. Treatment involves maintaining chloroquine diphosphate at 5-10 mg/L for 10 days.
not sure if this helps or not just something that I found that may be of help.
mike
The life cycle of A. ocellatum
A. ocellatum has a three-stage life cycle: parasitic trophonts, encysted reproductive tomonts and free-swimming infective dinospores. The parasitic trophont attaches to the one or more epithelial cells via rhizoids. It appears that nutrients are absorbed via the rhizoids. After the trophont matures, it detaches from the host, retracts it rhizoids, forms a cyst and becomes a tomont. The tomont may divide up to 8 times producing 256 dinospores (Noga and Levy, 1995). The free-swimming dinospores seek out a fish host to infect and remain infective for at least 6 days at 26°C (Noga and Levy, 1995). Amyloodinium can complete its life cycle in under one week under optimal conditions (Noga and Levy, 1995).
Signs of amyloodiniosis
The signs of amyloodiniosis include respiratory difficulties, loss of appetite, swimming near the surface, scratching. As the gills are usually the primary site of infection, difficulty in breathing is the most common sign and may be the only sign before death. Heavy infections may also affect the skin, fins and eyes. The common name "marine velvet" comes from heavy infestations of the skin which may have a dusty appearance.
Mild infestations of 1 or 2 trophonts per gill filament cause few problems, however heavy infestations of up to 200 trophonts per gill filament cause severe damage to the gills, including inflammation, haemorrhage and tissue death. The fish usually die from a lack of oxygen within 12 hours of a heavy infestation. (Noga and Levy, 1995). Given the short life cycle, a mild infestation can become a heavy infestation in under a week.
Treatment for of amyloodiniosis
Chemotherapy is the only effective treatment for Amyloodinium, with copper being the most widely used. Copper will not affect trophonts or tomonts but is toxic to the dinospores (Noga and Levy, 1995). Free copper should be kept at 0.12-0.15 mg/L for at least 14 days, although 21 days is better to be certain of killing all dinospores and to ensure that all trophonts have become tomonts and all tomonts have excysted. Copper cannot be used in the presence of invertebrates and treatment should be performed in a hospital tank void of any calcium carbonate substrate. The copper level needs to be tested regularly to ensure that sufficient concentrations are maintained. Copper is also toxic to the fish and care must be taken to avoid overdose.
Of all the copper medications available on the market, Cupramine by Seachem appears to be the safest. It is a complexed copper and is more stable that copper sulfate, copper citrate or chelated copper. As it is complexed, the total copper concentration should be maintained at 0.5 mg/L for three weeks.
Noga and Levy (1995) report on success with the use of chloroquine diphosphate (an antimalarial medicine). It was found to be very safe and effective in killing dinospores on excystment. It is non-toxic to fish, but very toxic to algae and many invertebrates, so, like copper, should only be used in an hospital tank. Treatment involves maintaining chloroquine diphosphate at 5-10 mg/L for 10 days.
not sure if this helps or not just something that I found that may be of help.
mike
squirreloso
Member
marine velvet is extremely common, as common as ich. its also very common in freshwater tanks, betta's often succumb to it.
im 99% sure my fish died of marine velvet
they had nearly every sypmtom
first signs were flashing, itching against rocks
they started to breath a bit heavier but still continued to eat as normal.
they would continue to itch and were bothered by something, they would dart around sometimes but not too often.
then a fine powdery coating would show up, little tiny specks, not very white and large like ich, but more smaller and slightly tan. if i can compare the size to ich, lets say ich was salt grain sized (a bit exagerated) then velvet would be compared to powdered sugar size...very very fine.
sometimes it would be hard to see but under the lights at a certain angle you can see it very well.
they stayed with the dusting for about a few days id say, then the heavy panting would occur, that is when their gills were destroyed by the parasite.
once they heavy breathing occured they were dead within 24 hours.
velvet can wipe out a tank quicker than any other parasite out there
i wish i would have taken pictures, but at that time i didnt even think of it. i have a feeling it wouldnt be too noticable in pictures because it looks so subtle, which is why you may have trouble finding pictures of it.
i did add coppersafe, but it was too late, once the heavy panting starts the fish are done for.
oh when they had the fine dusting i did add quick cure, it did nothing but turn my tank blue.
the tank has to be fallow now for at least 8 weeks, im going for 10 weeks just to be safe
if your gramma is still alive?? then its probably not velvet, once velvet rears its ugly head it kills fast!
heres a pretty good article..(am i allowed to post a link?)
Unfortunately not that link if it has any links directing you to a competitor of SWF.com then its not allowed
see what had me baffled with this illness is that my fish were older and i didnt add any new fish, but now im learning that it doesnt necessarily have to come in on a new fish, it can come in on live rock and inverts, something i did add quite often. i bought new corals from time to time, and they all would come on a piece of live rock. i also added more clean up crew (snails and hermits) so i think my puzzle has been solved
im 99% sure my fish died of marine velvet
they had nearly every sypmtom
first signs were flashing, itching against rocks
they started to breath a bit heavier but still continued to eat as normal.
they would continue to itch and were bothered by something, they would dart around sometimes but not too often.
then a fine powdery coating would show up, little tiny specks, not very white and large like ich, but more smaller and slightly tan. if i can compare the size to ich, lets say ich was salt grain sized (a bit exagerated) then velvet would be compared to powdered sugar size...very very fine.
sometimes it would be hard to see but under the lights at a certain angle you can see it very well.
they stayed with the dusting for about a few days id say, then the heavy panting would occur, that is when their gills were destroyed by the parasite.
once they heavy breathing occured they were dead within 24 hours.
velvet can wipe out a tank quicker than any other parasite out there
i wish i would have taken pictures, but at that time i didnt even think of it. i have a feeling it wouldnt be too noticable in pictures because it looks so subtle, which is why you may have trouble finding pictures of it.
i did add coppersafe, but it was too late, once the heavy panting starts the fish are done for.
oh when they had the fine dusting i did add quick cure, it did nothing but turn my tank blue.
the tank has to be fallow now for at least 8 weeks, im going for 10 weeks just to be safe
if your gramma is still alive?? then its probably not velvet, once velvet rears its ugly head it kills fast!
heres a pretty good article..(am i allowed to post a link?)
Unfortunately not that link if it has any links directing you to a competitor of SWF.com then its not allowed
see what had me baffled with this illness is that my fish were older and i didnt add any new fish, but now im learning that it doesnt necessarily have to come in on a new fish, it can come in on live rock and inverts, something i did add quite often. i bought new corals from time to time, and they all would come on a piece of live rock. i also added more clean up crew (snails and hermits) so i think my puzzle has been solved
sepulatian
Moderator
A hard lesson learned; qt EVERYTHING going into your tank. It is very unfortunate and many people still think that quarantining fish is enough. It is not. I am very sorry that you had to have this experience. Do you have fish left? If you do then pull them out to a quarantine tank and let the velvet die off in your tank.
squirreloso
Member
no, sadly all the fish died. it was like a domino effect, one by one they all perished
i never even thought to QT corals and inverts
i never even thought to QT corals and inverts
sepulatian
Moderator
Originally Posted by squirreloso
no, sadly all the fish died. it was like a domino effect, one by one they all perished
i never even thought to QT corals and inverts
Many people don't. Don't beat yourself up about it. I know that you are sad, but it happens. A fellow member lost many of her prized, large fish, that she had had for years after adding more rock to her display. It has happened with many others as well. It is a hard lesson learned. I am so sorry that I was not on earlier this week when the symptoms started. I feel like I could have helped you save these fish. I am so very sorry.
no, sadly all the fish died. it was like a domino effect, one by one they all perished
i never even thought to QT corals and inverts
Many people don't. Don't beat yourself up about it. I know that you are sad, but it happens. A fellow member lost many of her prized, large fish, that she had had for years after adding more rock to her display. It has happened with many others as well. It is a hard lesson learned. I am so sorry that I was not on earlier this week when the symptoms started. I feel like I could have helped you save these fish. I am so very sorry.
squirreloso
Member
thank you
it was very hard. i was very attached to my red lipped blenny that i had for about 18 months. he was a little beast always attacking me when id feed him his nori. that just added to his personality, he can never be replaced.
it all happend so fast
it was very hard. i was very attached to my red lipped blenny that i had for about 18 months. he was a little beast always attacking me when id feed him his nori. that just added to his personality, he can never be replaced.
it all happend so fast
michaeltx
Moderator
thats the bad thing about this hobby NOTHING good happens fast. It has happened to just about everyone in some way or another. I lost a show size quinefowl puffer in one day I bought him that morning healthy and happy the next morning I woke up to find him dead in the tank because of something I did. just remember to learn from your mistakes so you dont repeat them and do the best that you can for future aqusitions.
Mike
Mike
sepulatian
Moderator
Originally Posted by MichaelTX
thats the bad thing about this hobby NOTHING good happens fast. It has happened to just about everyone in some way or another. I lost a show size quinefowl puffer in one day I bought him that morning healthy and happy the next morning I woke up to find him dead in the tank because of something I did. just remember to learn from your mistakes so you dont repeat them and do the best that you can for future aqusitions.
Mike
I 100% agree
Hi Mike, nice to see you in my neck of the woods
thats the bad thing about this hobby NOTHING good happens fast. It has happened to just about everyone in some way or another. I lost a show size quinefowl puffer in one day I bought him that morning healthy and happy the next morning I woke up to find him dead in the tank because of something I did. just remember to learn from your mistakes so you dont repeat them and do the best that you can for future aqusitions.
Mike
I 100% agree
sepulatian
Moderator
Originally Posted by squirreloso
thank you
it was very hard. i was very attached to my red lipped blenny that i had for about 18 months. he was a little beast always attacking me when id feed him his nori. that just added to his personality, he can never be replaced.
it all happend so fast
I know it happened fast. Do you have a qt set up? You will have to leave your display fishless for at least 6-8 weeks. You can add rock and corals, but no fish just yet. Now would be the time to add any non fish. No parasite will host non fish.
thank you
it was very hard. i was very attached to my red lipped blenny that i had for about 18 months. he was a little beast always attacking me when id feed him his nori. that just added to his personality, he can never be replaced.
it all happend so fast
I know it happened fast. Do you have a qt set up? You will have to leave your display fishless for at least 6-8 weeks. You can add rock and corals, but no fish just yet. Now would be the time to add any non fish. No parasite will host non fish.
sepulatian
Moderator
Originally Posted by MichaelTX
I have been lurking alot lately
I aways look but usually dont have much to add LOL so I dont
Mike
I am sure you have plenty of helpfull insight to add. It is nice to see you around Mike. Do I have to go pick up slack in New Hobbiest?
I have been lurking alot lately
I aways look but usually dont have much to add LOL so I dont
Mike
I am sure you have plenty of helpfull insight to add. It is nice to see you around Mike. Do I have to go pick up slack in New Hobbiest?