Black Dogface- White Stringy Material coming out of mouth.

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gtdarock

Guest
Hi. I need help with my black dogface puffer. I got him last week, and he has not been eating. I try mysis shrimp,krill,blood worms,squid, and nothing. So I even added garlic to the food, and water, and nothing. Now this morning I notice that he has a white stringy material coming out of his mouth, and it looks like his mouth is swollen shut. I don't know what to do anymore. I've been trying to get him to eat, with all differrent kinds of food, and it looks like I got him sick. He's not even opening his mouth anymore. What should I do-? Any help would be great, thank you.
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
-Can you post your water levels for me? (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, kH, salinity, and temp)
-When you got this fish, how did you acclimate him and for how long? Was he out of the water at all?
 
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gtdarock

Guest
Hi. Thanx for the reply.
I acclimated him for about 1 1/2 hours. I let him float for an 1/2 hour then added a cup of water from the tank every 15 mins, then finally released him. He was probably out of the water from the LFS, for about 3 seconds. I am really worried about him mouth being closed shut, and it looks like him is coughing up that stringy stuff sometimes. I am thinking of adding this capsuls I have called -Maracyn. I always have a hight Nitriate reading in my tank. My other readings are below.
Ammonia- .25
Nitrite- .25
PH- 7.8
TEMP - 80
Salinity- 1.022
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
Hm, none of those water parameters really look good (besides for temp and salinity).
Do you know your alk? That would help figure out why your pH is low.
Why can't you get your nitrates down? How often do you do water changes? When you say they are high, how high do you mean?
How long has this tank been running?
 
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gtdarock

Guest
Tank has been running for a year. I do water changes every month, 20 percent. My Nitrates are at 80 right now. About the Alk, I am not sure. Do you think I should use the Marcacyn for the puffer-?
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
No, I think you should fix the water levels first. Using the medication will not help the fish if the external stresses are not fixed.
What kind of substrate are you using on the bottom?
I would also try to get some live food for the puffer. Ghost shrimp, black worms, and brine shrimp will probably help him to begin eating once you begin to fix the water levels.
I would start doing weekly 20% water changes to get those levels down immediately.
 
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gtdarock

Guest
Ok. So i will do the water change. But how long do you think the puffer can go without eating-? I was wondering if the weekly 20% water change would be too much for the fish-? I know what made my water levels. get to that level. Ever since I got a lionfish, and I have been feeding him live guppies, my levels went up. Sometimes he would miss them, and my niger trigger would chew the guppy in pieces. Getting this puffer to eat is driving me crazy. No frozen foods at all. I went back to the LFS, and the said it takes sometime for the fish to be acclimated. Also they said the puffer can go awhile without eating. One on my friends told me to get clams from a supermarket. So I am trying my best to get him to eat, cuz I paid $ 130 for him.
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
Yup, live feeder fish are surely messy. I would avoid using any type of freshwater feeder FISH. These are very unhealthy for your lion and trigger and can cause a disease known as fatty liver disease. It is one of the most common causes of death among captive lionfish.
20% weekly water changes will not hurt your fish if you do them properly. I have explained how I do water changes in the next post for you. Doing them this way will ensure that you do not stress your fish when you do them.
You still did not answer what type of substrate you are using on the bottom of your tank. Sand, aragonite, crushed coral?
Clams from the grocery store would help. The live black worms and ghost shrimp would also entice your puffer to start eating too. It is definitely neccessary to get your levels down fast though. That is why I recommend the 20% weekly water changes. I would even do 30% the first week, just to make a big dent in those nitrates.
 
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gtdarock

Guest
Any ideas of feeding my lionfish different foods-? If you can go into detail about the water changes, I would greatly appericiate it. I have sand mixed with some aragonite. Also about doing the water changes weekly, do I have to change the pad too-? Thanx
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
When I do a water change, here is my process.
I have 2 trash cans. A good water bucket, and a bad water bucket. The two are never mixed. I have "good" on one, and "bad" on the other. Since I do 40 gallon water changes, I use a 45 gallon trash can.
Fill up a trash can with water. Pour the salt in. Guess-timate it the first time. Put a heater in, and heat it to the exact temperature of the tank. For the first 24 hours, put a powerhead on the bottom of the bucket/trash can to mix the water with the salt. Salt will fall to the bottom, so this is where you want your powerhead. After 24 hours has passed, bring the powerhead closer to the top to increase the oxygen. Dissolving salt with water uses the oxygen up in the water, so you need to replace this. You could use an airstone, but I just use a venturi powerhead because it sucks air in (I run 2 poweheads, one at the top, and one at the bottom, since I have such a huge trash can - you only need one). After the first 24 hours has passed, check the salinity and pH and adjust accordingly. If it is too high, add regular water. If it is too slow, add more salt. If your pH is different from your tank, check your alkalinity. Many times, you need to buffer alkalinity because there are some salts that you give a low alk level.
Once the salinity, pH, kH, and temp are EXACT to your tank, you are ready to do a water change.
When I do a water change, I never dump water into the tank. I have a 5 gallon bucket that I use to take water from my trash can. I put the five gallon bucket on the floor and pump water from the 5 gallon bucket to my sump using a small powerhead and some tubing. This way, the fish are not getting stressed out by you adding a lot of water to the top of the tank. They do not even realize that you are adding water to the tank because it is calm, plus all the water levels are identical to that of the tank. (Plus, this way is a lot less messy).
If you have any questions, please feel free to ask me.
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
What are you using, a poly fiber pad? If so, replacing these every week will certainly help remove more nitrates.
If you need to use live foods for your lion right now, live ghost shrimp, gut loaded with nutrients, is the way to go. Eventually, you want your lionfish eating krill, prawn, silversides, squidd, mysis shrimp, etc. Plus, to get them some extra nutrients, I always recommend the use of vitamins (Zoe, Selcon, VitaChem).
 
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gtdarock

Guest
Thanx for all the help. I really appericiate it. I was wondering if there is anything I can do for the puffer to open his mouth again.-? He swims around with his mouth closed shut. I am thinking that the white stringy stuff coming out of his mouth, which I think is fungus, is causing him to keep it closed-?
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
As for the mouth funugus, I would try some PimaFix to help him out. PimaFix treats fungal infections and treats both internal and external bacterial infections and will not affect anything else that you have in the tank (fish, rock, inverts, etc.)
PimaFix will not work though unless you make the water clean and healthy for the fish first though.
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
Basically, the ammonia, and even the nitrites, is like offering your fish a cup of poison. So you see this this fish's reaction. You need to get those levels to zero very fast.
 
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gtdarock

Guest
OK.Thanx. i will get the PimaFix today and do about a 30 % water change. Also how long do you think the puffer can go without eating-? Its been a week already. I hope the black puffer will make it.
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
I would not worry about that. He could go longer than that if neccessary. Get the PimaFix, do a 30% water change without stressing the fish out, and you should begin to see some improvements I would think. You may even want to pick up a bottle of live Turbo Start to add extra biological bacteria to the tank after the water change. This would help bring down the ammonia and nitrite even more so.
 
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gtdarock

Guest
Did a 30 % water change, and added the PIMAFIX. Almost 30 minutes after I put it in, the puffer was coughing up a lot of white stuff.So today is the second day, and i added another dose of the PIMAFIX.On the bottle it says to add a dose of it for the next 7 days.
So the puffer still has it on him, I guess he is improving, cuz he is coughing it up. But he is still not eating anything. Is it still due to the fact that he stills has the infection-? I tried feeding him blood worms,brine and mysis shrimp,krill,clam meat and lastly putting a silverside on a feeding stick. I don't know what else to do,to get him to eat-? Today is one week that he didn't eat. I really don't want to lose this guy. He is swimmimg around and stuff,but still got that stuff on his mouth. Help-?? Thanx
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
The PimaFix should continue to help. Continue to monitor water levels. Test your water later today and post what the readings are.
 
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gtdarock

Guest
I will check the water today, and post the readings. I think I made a very stupid move, I know that when you add a treatment in your tank you should turn off the skimmer. Stupid me- I DIDN'T. What I did was it turn the skimming down, cuz I have a Seaclone 150. So I guess most of the PIMAFIX was getting sucked up.I'm not sure,cuz I think the Puffer is doing better,he's coughing up the cotton stuff,but not a lot at all. I hope he eats soon. So I just turned the skimmer off, and added another dose. Also my porcupine has a pop eye, will the PIMAFIX take it out-? And did I made a mistake leaving the skimmer on-? Thanx
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
Leaving the skmmer on is only a problem in terms of foaming. It's good that it is off. If he has pop eye, there is still something wrong with the water quality. MelaFix should be used to treat this. PimaFix and MelaFix were designed to work together, so the products are fine to put in at the same time.
 
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