Blue powder tang or blue hippo tang?
- Thread starter mrmax
- Start date
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
They are both ich magnets, but it's not a question of what is easier to keep alive... it's a question of compatibility.
What fish do you currently have?
How big is your tank?
I also agree with Bang, a blue hippo is much easier to care for.
What fish do you currently have?
How big is your tank?
I also agree with Bang, a blue hippo is much easier to care for.
mrmax
New Member
Is it best to drip acclimate or just float and fill bag with aquarium water? My LFS says it is best to float then fill bag with aquarium water because the water in the airline for drip acclimating changes temperature by the time it gets to the bucket. Is this true? Or should I drip acclimate?
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
salt water fish are osmoregulators and have to balance their osmotic pressures differently than inverts, which are osmoconformers. An osmoregulator is much less sensitive to differences in salinity, as long as the difference is not that significant. If you know that the source water that the fish in the bag has not been treated with copper, I say to float the bag.
With inverts and cnidarians, I typically do a float and pierce the bag with a knife once every fifteen minutes to half an hour and let it acclimate. Drip is good as well, but I also put a small heater in the bucket that is acclimating.
When I owned my store, I had set up a saltwater acclimation station, which consisted of a row of three 10g tanks and two 5g tanks in the back. My main pump was connected to the acclimation tanks. When I would get a large order, I would put all of the water and everything from multiple bags in the same tank that could possibly go together, with a small heater and an airline to pump air into it. I'd hit it with a little prime or amquel and then start a two to three hour drip acclimation. I rarely lost fish that way. I had separate tanks for the inverts and corals - which was easy to just empty and go. But, then again, that's a commercial business way of doing things compared to at home stuff.
With inverts and cnidarians, I typically do a float and pierce the bag with a knife once every fifteen minutes to half an hour and let it acclimate. Drip is good as well, but I also put a small heater in the bucket that is acclimating.
When I owned my store, I had set up a saltwater acclimation station, which consisted of a row of three 10g tanks and two 5g tanks in the back. My main pump was connected to the acclimation tanks. When I would get a large order, I would put all of the water and everything from multiple bags in the same tank that could possibly go together, with a small heater and an airline to pump air into it. I'd hit it with a little prime or amquel and then start a two to three hour drip acclimation. I rarely lost fish that way. I had separate tanks for the inverts and corals - which was easy to just empty and go. But, then again, that's a commercial business way of doing things compared to at home stuff.
zoidberg01
Member
I say hippo tang because the powder blue will fight to the death to any other tang or a fish with similar shape
flower
Well-Known Member
You will not automatically add ich to your tank, that's a crazy way to look at it. The tangs are just sensitive and easily stressed, making them a prime target for the parasite. Quarantine the fish before adding it to the display and save yourself lots of troubles...otherwise, every time you put your hands in the tank, or do a water change, or add anything new, the tang will get stressed and ich will break out, and by sheer numbers the death toll will start.
okiereefer2
Member
I have both---the Powder blue being the last one added--
My tank is practically all tangs--a yellow, a naso, a hippo, and the powder..
I was real nervous about the powder from what I'd read, but it was eating in no time
and doesn't take any crap off of ANYONE..
They are supposed to be rather timid--but that hasn't been the case for me..
All getting along fine now, along with a maroon clown, mandarin, 6line wrasse, and a bi-color blenny..
I had horrible luck buying small hippos, probably lost 3 before shelling out the bucks for a large one--and it was a healthy beast when it arrived and rules the tank now..
Love my Tangs
My tank is practically all tangs--a yellow, a naso, a hippo, and the powder..
I was real nervous about the powder from what I'd read, but it was eating in no time
and doesn't take any crap off of ANYONE..
They are supposed to be rather timid--but that hasn't been the case for me..
All getting along fine now, along with a maroon clown, mandarin, 6line wrasse, and a bi-color blenny..
I had horrible luck buying small hippos, probably lost 3 before shelling out the bucks for a large one--and it was a healthy beast when it arrived and rules the tank now..
Love my Tangs
zoidberg01
Member
Fresh dip both of them because if they have ich that will really help
2tangcrazy
Member
Blue hippo has to be easier than the Powder Blue. My blue was doing fine, fat and sassy, got a new sleeper head goby and within weeks my Blue had ich ,this fish had been in my tank for 6 months doing fine. This is my 2nd PB in 3 years , the only reason I got a 180 was to be able to keep a PB. I love the look but they are very ich succeptable . The last one infected the tank and I lost 5 other fish
too. Thankfully all my other fish would eat the medicated food. Everyone else is doing fine this time. How big is your tank? the Powder Blue needs a 6 ft tank. Good luck with your new fish whatever you decide. Unfortunately I won't ever get another Powder Blue.
too. Thankfully all my other fish would eat the medicated food. Everyone else is doing fine this time. How big is your tank? the Powder Blue needs a 6 ft tank. Good luck with your new fish whatever you decide. Unfortunately I won't ever get another Powder Blue.
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2tangCrazy http:///t/396709/blue-powder-tang-or-blue-hippo-tang#post_3535980
Blue hippo has to be easier than the Powder Blue. My blue was doing fine, fat and sassy, got a new sleeper head goby and within weeks my Blue had ich ,this fish had been in my tank for 6 months doing fine. This is my 2nd PB in 3 years , the only reason I got a 180 was to be able to keep a PB. I love the look but they are very ich succeptable . The last one infected the tank and I lost 5 other fish too. Thankfully all my other fish would eat the medicated food. Everyone else is doing fine this time. How big is your tank? the Powder Blue needs a 6 ft tank. Good luck with your new fish whatever you decide. Unfortunately I won't ever get another Powder Blue.
Hi,
Ich is a parasite, as soon as a fish is stressed the parasite is able to really attack it, and then by sheer numbers kill even the healthy unstressed fish......remove all the fish from the display for 8 weeks, and treat your fish in a hospital tank with either hypo or copper...once the 8 weeks are past, and all the fish parasite free from treatment, return them to the now parasite free display...THEN you can quarantine a PB and if it is ich free after 4 weeks (treat with hypo or copper if necessary), add it to your display.
Medicated food won't clear the tank of ich. The tank has to be without any fish for 8 weeks for the parasite to die off without a host. So if you want that PB, you can still have one.
Originally Posted by 2tangCrazy http:///t/396709/blue-powder-tang-or-blue-hippo-tang#post_3535980
Blue hippo has to be easier than the Powder Blue. My blue was doing fine, fat and sassy, got a new sleeper head goby and within weeks my Blue had ich ,this fish had been in my tank for 6 months doing fine. This is my 2nd PB in 3 years , the only reason I got a 180 was to be able to keep a PB. I love the look but they are very ich succeptable . The last one infected the tank and I lost 5 other fish
too. Thankfully all my other fish would eat the medicated food. Everyone else is doing fine this time. How big is your tank? the Powder Blue needs a 6 ft tank. Good luck with your new fish whatever you decide. Unfortunately I won't ever get another Powder Blue.Hi,
Ich is a parasite, as soon as a fish is stressed the parasite is able to really attack it, and then by sheer numbers kill even the healthy unstressed fish......remove all the fish from the display for 8 weeks, and treat your fish in a hospital tank with either hypo or copper...once the 8 weeks are past, and all the fish parasite free from treatment, return them to the now parasite free display...THEN you can quarantine a PB and if it is ich free after 4 weeks (treat with hypo or copper if necessary), add it to your display.
Medicated food won't clear the tank of ich. The tank has to be without any fish for 8 weeks for the parasite to die off without a host. So if you want that PB, you can still have one.
2tangcrazy
Member
All the other fish seem to be fine. I have a Naso tang 6", Purple and yellow tang 5", a pair of black and white clowns, Yellow head sleeper goby, coral beauty, sunshine damsel, lawnmower blenny, purple psuedochromis and a cleaner wrasse. All of these are survivors of the last powder blue ich outbreak except the male clown and the purple and yellow tang. The fish guy in town says to remove them from their normal tank is likely to stress them out more and have a greater loss of fish. I live in Anchorage AK the only place here to get fish is ***** or Coral Finatics (local fish guy). It just breaks my heart to lose a fish especially My favorite. So for me I think I will have to leave them in the ocean.
geridoc
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoidberg01 http:///t/396709/blue-powder-tang-or-blue-hippo-tang#post_3535955
Fresh dip both of them because if they have ich that will really help
Freshwater dips are effective for a variety of external parasites, but not so much for ich. The ich parasite burrows under the mucus layer where it is protected from the osmotic shock of a freshwater dip. The only advantage to such a dip is to lower the number of parasites to only those under the mucus. This may delay the visible outbreak since you are adding fewer infectious organisms, but it is coming. The first stress and, bang!, there it is. Effective treatments (hypo, copper, metronidazole, etc) need 6-8 weeks of exposure so that all of the infectious organisms mature and fall off, which is when they can be killed.
Originally Posted by zoidberg01 http:///t/396709/blue-powder-tang-or-blue-hippo-tang#post_3535955
Fresh dip both of them because if they have ich that will really help
Freshwater dips are effective for a variety of external parasites, but not so much for ich. The ich parasite burrows under the mucus layer where it is protected from the osmotic shock of a freshwater dip. The only advantage to such a dip is to lower the number of parasites to only those under the mucus. This may delay the visible outbreak since you are adding fewer infectious organisms, but it is coming. The first stress and, bang!, there it is. Effective treatments (hypo, copper, metronidazole, etc) need 6-8 weeks of exposure so that all of the infectious organisms mature and fall off, which is when they can be killed.
zoidberg01
Member
I know because it won't take off the ich when it's in a dormant stage
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2tangCrazy http:///t/396709/blue-powder-tang-or-blue-hippo-tang#post_3536000
All the other fish seem to be fine. I have a Naso tang 6", Purple and yellow tang 5", a pair of black and white clowns, Yellow head sleeper goby, coral beauty, sunshine damsel, lawnmower blenny, purple psuedochromis and a cleaner wrasse. All of these are survivors of the last powder blue ich outbreak except the male clown and the purple and yellow tang. The fish guy in town says to remove them from their normal tank is likely to stress them out more and have a greater loss of fish. I live in Anchorage AK the only place here to get fish is ***** or Coral Finatics (local fish guy). It just breaks my heart to lose a fish especially My favorite. So for me I think I will have to leave them in the ocean.
ich is in the system...you have to remove all the fish from the tank to allow the ish parasite to die off without a host. You can treat the fish in a separate tank, but the display must be fishless for 8 weeks. Healthy fish can resist the parasite, but stress will allow the parasite to explode in numbers, killing even the healthy fish. All new fish are stressed, so every time you add a new critter, the whole tank will break out...and the death toll begins again.
Originally Posted by 2tangCrazy http:///t/396709/blue-powder-tang-or-blue-hippo-tang#post_3536000
All the other fish seem to be fine. I have a Naso tang 6", Purple and yellow tang 5", a pair of black and white clowns, Yellow head sleeper goby, coral beauty, sunshine damsel, lawnmower blenny, purple psuedochromis and a cleaner wrasse. All of these are survivors of the last powder blue ich outbreak except the male clown and the purple and yellow tang. The fish guy in town says to remove them from their normal tank is likely to stress them out more and have a greater loss of fish. I live in Anchorage AK the only place here to get fish is ***** or Coral Finatics (local fish guy). It just breaks my heart to lose a fish especially My favorite. So for me I think I will have to leave them in the ocean.
ich is in the system...you have to remove all the fish from the tank to allow the ish parasite to die off without a host. You can treat the fish in a separate tank, but the display must be fishless for 8 weeks. Healthy fish can resist the parasite, but stress will allow the parasite to explode in numbers, killing even the healthy fish. All new fish are stressed, so every time you add a new critter, the whole tank will break out...and the death toll begins again.