BTA Has Me confused...
- Thread starter meowzer
- Start date
invertcrazy
Member
Anemones get 90% of their food from the lights, so you will need T5ho or medal halide lighting and you will need to soak the food in a vitamin like zoe or selcon and feed 2 or 3 times a week.Whatever food you are feeding, chop very small and soak in salt water with vitamins for a couple hours before feeding. Then with a turkey baster, lightly squirt the food onto the tentacles. This is not going to be a over night fix, it's going to take a couple of months. Just my .02
meowzer
Moderator
Originally Posted by Lmecher
http:///forum/post/2892820
I'd go with something a little more solid, just very tiny pieces. Is it sticky?
I don't know if it is sticky or not...it is very hard to get to.
so you will need T5ho or medal halide lighting
I just paid $1200 for MH lights. So that shouldn't be the problem. I guess I just have to try to be sure it is actually getting the food.
http:///forum/post/2892820
I'd go with something a little more solid, just very tiny pieces. Is it sticky?
I don't know if it is sticky or not...it is very hard to get to.
so you will need T5ho or medal halide lighting
I just paid $1200 for MH lights. So that shouldn't be the problem. I guess I just have to try to be sure it is actually getting the food.
lmecher
Member
The reason it is hiding is your lights are too intense for it in the condition it is in. I would just give it a (very) little squirt of chopped up food with a turkey baster/ syringe directly into it's tentacles daily only when it is inflated. If you have selcon, that would be good to add. Invertcrazy is absolutely right, although if it is shying away from the light you need to provide it with nutrition by feeding.
I have a very bleached rose, I placed 1 or 2 mysis onto it's tantacles every day. At first it would not eat, it'd just drop them. I have continued this for a few weeks, I pushed the mysis into it's tentacles, not into it's mouth to help it hold onto it finally it started eating and now it has come out from behind the rock directly under my MH.
I have a very bleached rose, I placed 1 or 2 mysis onto it's tantacles every day. At first it would not eat, it'd just drop them. I have continued this for a few weeks, I pushed the mysis into it's tentacles, not into it's mouth to help it hold onto it finally it started eating and now it has come out from behind the rock directly under my MH.
meowzer
Moderator
Originally Posted by Lmecher
http:///forum/post/2892862
From your photo it looks like you should have no trouble getting food to it. All you can do is keep trying, be persistant. Just don't overfeed, teeny tiny meals until you are sure it is eating what you give it at that point you can increase the size of the pieces. Good luck.
Thanks, I just tried to give it a piece of silverside...hopefully it will hold onto it..
http:///forum/post/2892862
From your photo it looks like you should have no trouble getting food to it. All you can do is keep trying, be persistant. Just don't overfeed, teeny tiny meals until you are sure it is eating what you give it at that point you can increase the size of the pieces. Good luck.
Thanks, I just tried to give it a piece of silverside...hopefully it will hold onto it..
lmecher
Member
Your lights are perfect, more people should follow the example. The anemone you got is not healthy, thats the problem. Once you get that baby up to speed it will thrive. Your right, it seems out of whack. You spend the money on lights and now they're too brite. That figures, just can't win sometimes. But on a serious note keep us posted will be watching for updates. I want to see this little one get better.
dive girl
Member
Good luck with your BTA. If you can get it to eat, that's a good sign. I got a beautiful white and pink condi from a LDS, unfortunately pink and white is not a great color/condition for them. I started feeding mine about 1/3 of a silverside. Sometimes he (Darwin) would eat it and other times, not. It was easier to feed him small pieces of silversides because his tentacles weren't sticky and he could hold the fish easier. He let me know when he wasn't hungry and would let the piece drop. He is now a beautiful brownish color with a green tint and just a little pink on the tips. He now eats the food that everyone else eats (I make my own 'mix') and eats a little most days. (I offer him food often because my clown gobie likes to play "clownfish" and host in him---I know, I know
!) The shrimp that hang out in his neck of the woods love it when he's not hungry, food goes flying. He looks so different from what I first got him. Maybe not as striking in color but much happier and healthier (except for the little trip into the powerhead a few months ago). By the way, are all of your powerheads well covered?
By the way, I'm a newbie and am just relating what's worked for me.
By the way, I'm a newbie and am just relating what's worked for me.
meowzer
Moderator
OK, I thawed a mysis cube, and added a few drops of zoe....The anemone is not easy to get to since this tank is 30" deep, it is towards the bottom, and under a rock...so I sucked some of the mysis into a feeding syringe thing (looks like a skinny baster) and reached as far as I could under the rock and squirted it in...I have no clue if it got any or not, but I do not see how it could have missed it....How often should I do this????
meowzer
Moderator
Originally Posted by Lmecher
http:///forum/post/2893175
I'd give it just a little everyday, now I understand your problem. I have a tank that is 24" deep and when I am reaching in (I am in to my armpit) I can't see what I'm doing cuz I can only see from the top.
Well between the baster and my arm, I can get to the rock, so I figure if I get enough of the mixture under the rock surely some will get into the anemone. So, do this every day??? And if the anemone is indeed getting some, it won't take more than it needs..right? So I don't have to worry about too much food?
http:///forum/post/2893175
I'd give it just a little everyday, now I understand your problem. I have a tank that is 24" deep and when I am reaching in (I am in to my armpit) I can't see what I'm doing cuz I can only see from the top.
Well between the baster and my arm, I can get to the rock, so I figure if I get enough of the mixture under the rock surely some will get into the anemone. So, do this every day??? And if the anemone is indeed getting some, it won't take more than it needs..right? So I don't have to worry about too much food?
lmecher
Member
I would worry about the food that dosen't get eaten so start off with very little. Uneaten food will increase you bioload.
If your only feeding small meals it won't be too much, that anemone needs all it can get. Just look to see if it is expanded before feeding, don't feed if it is deflated.
If your only feeding small meals it won't be too much, that anemone needs all it can get. Just look to see if it is expanded before feeding, don't feed if it is deflated.
fragglerock
New Member
About your question to me:
My apologies, for not answering sooner...
Starving and bleached go hand in hand a lot of the time.
A white anemone (BTA) is a bad color, because it means it has lost its little animals who live inside it, which give it color. Those little animals (zooxanthellae) live inside the anemone and they assist it to keep its color and to survive.
They feed on things which free-float in the water and also on foods ingested by your anemone, and thrive off of good lighting. You have good lighting and he will adjust, hopefully.
When a coral or an anemone becomes bleached (white) it is a very bad sign. It means that the little animals who symbiotically live within it are starving to death. Many times, an anemone will expell these little animals as they die and you will actually see its color coming out in its poop.
You didn't know this, of course, when you bought it, and LFS are famous for selling anemone who are bleached and starving to customers, becuase most people tend to buy white rather than brown anemone.
So, making a long answer shorter...lol...the first thing not to do is panic. Do not panic. You did the best thing for that anemone possible by bringing him home to your wonderful lighting, which will assist to feed the little zooxanthellae inside him, and with time, he may adjust just fine.
I don't think anything you did caused anything, from what you have told us, and it sounds like as soon as it begins to adjust to your lighting a bit better, it will be in a much improved atmosphere.
For what it's worth, it's very rewarding to rescue and to revive an anemone who has been through such a tough time.
My suggestion to you is to go against everyone else's suggestions to feed it silversides, and to instead feed it krill. Although a higher fat content, the coloration of the krill filters into the anemone and they repair faster. Every single time I've fed mine silversides repeatedly, I have lost them. I now retain my 3 just perfect, living on phyto and on krill weekly. I only feed one time weekly.
But...what works for me, may not necessarily work for everyone else. I live by Karen's Anemone site's suggestions for mine, and we go right alongside what she recommends, up to the silverside issue. She does recommend feeding silversides, even though experts say not to, and I disagree with her. I have just had too many die on me within a week after feeding them the silversides.
Maybe it's our local silversides...I don't know.
Either way, you could try some krill, chopped into quarter-inch bits.
My apologies, for not answering sooner...
Starving and bleached go hand in hand a lot of the time.
A white anemone (BTA) is a bad color, because it means it has lost its little animals who live inside it, which give it color. Those little animals (zooxanthellae) live inside the anemone and they assist it to keep its color and to survive.
They feed on things which free-float in the water and also on foods ingested by your anemone, and thrive off of good lighting. You have good lighting and he will adjust, hopefully.
When a coral or an anemone becomes bleached (white) it is a very bad sign. It means that the little animals who symbiotically live within it are starving to death. Many times, an anemone will expell these little animals as they die and you will actually see its color coming out in its poop.
You didn't know this, of course, when you bought it, and LFS are famous for selling anemone who are bleached and starving to customers, becuase most people tend to buy white rather than brown anemone.
So, making a long answer shorter...lol...the first thing not to do is panic. Do not panic. You did the best thing for that anemone possible by bringing him home to your wonderful lighting, which will assist to feed the little zooxanthellae inside him, and with time, he may adjust just fine.
I don't think anything you did caused anything, from what you have told us, and it sounds like as soon as it begins to adjust to your lighting a bit better, it will be in a much improved atmosphere.
For what it's worth, it's very rewarding to rescue and to revive an anemone who has been through such a tough time.
My suggestion to you is to go against everyone else's suggestions to feed it silversides, and to instead feed it krill. Although a higher fat content, the coloration of the krill filters into the anemone and they repair faster. Every single time I've fed mine silversides repeatedly, I have lost them. I now retain my 3 just perfect, living on phyto and on krill weekly. I only feed one time weekly.
But...what works for me, may not necessarily work for everyone else. I live by Karen's Anemone site's suggestions for mine, and we go right alongside what she recommends, up to the silverside issue. She does recommend feeding silversides, even though experts say not to, and I disagree with her. I have just had too many die on me within a week after feeding them the silversides.
Maybe it's our local silversides...I don't know.
Either way, you could try some krill, chopped into quarter-inch bits.
lmecher
Member
Zooxanthellae is algea, they process food from the light just as a plant does. I have never heard experts say not to feed silversides, the important thing is to get it to eat something. Small pieces will be easier to digest.
FraggleRock, This was purchased from Saltwaterfish.com it arrived in this condition, now they are just trying to save it.
FraggleRock, This was purchased from Saltwaterfish.com it arrived in this condition, now they are just trying to save it.
meowzer
Moderator
That's ok...LOL...The one thing I have been learning from this site, is you take a little from everyone. I have read many times over that what may work for one, does not always work for all....One thing I was wondering though....My MH lights have 3 250watt bulbs...the anemone is on the right side of tank (under a rock)...should I turn that one light off for a few days? Or at this point just leave it?
TO ALL: I greatly appreciate the help....
TO ALL: I greatly appreciate the help....
lmecher
Member
Man I feel bad, you do seem confused. This is much to digest, everyone telling you something different. I would say when you find something your anemone preferrs, stick with it, mine just don't seem to like silversides so I switch off between mysis, krill, shrimp and Rods's. I soak it in selcon while it thaws. Just remember to give small feedings until you are sure it is eating what you give it. I am keeping my fingers crossed hoping it pulls through.
Here are some exerpts from wetwebmedia, people write in with questions for the experts to answer, it may help to know your giving it the right treatment.
Bleached anemone... needs help 9/17/04
Crew, If you would be so kind as to identify the anemone in the attached photo? It appears to me to be a Condylactis, but my Cinnamon clown (Amphiprion melanopus) loves to hang out in it and he is only supposed to like bubble tip anemone (Entacmaea). What do you think?
<the anemone clearly is a bleached bubble-tip anemone: Entacmaea quadricolor>
It was sold to me as a bubble tip (with the rock). David A. Bidwell
<the ID was correct... although this anemone is EXTREMELY unhealthy... bleached of all zooxanthellae and soon to be dead (months) if it does not get some very regular feedings from you - finely minced meats of marine origin several times weekly or near daily. Thawed Mysid shrimp and Pacifica plankton are a good start. Anthony>
Bleached anemone... needs help II 9/18/04
Anthony, Thanks so much. I wish it were better news. The sad shape of the anemone confused me.
<understood... no worries, there is hope>
I'll be sure to feed it much more frequently (thawed Formula
Two for now) given the absence of its symbiotic food provider.
<excellent... and other fine meaty foods in time too please>
Realistically, how likely is it to return it to health? Dave
<actually... quite good. This is one of the hardiest anemones in captivity. My top pick/recommendation. Have faith and feed regularly! Anthony>
Karen's Roses
http://www.karensroseanemones.com/sa...mthepetsho.htm
Here are some exerpts from wetwebmedia, people write in with questions for the experts to answer, it may help to know your giving it the right treatment.
Bleached anemone... needs help 9/17/04
Crew, If you would be so kind as to identify the anemone in the attached photo? It appears to me to be a Condylactis, but my Cinnamon clown (Amphiprion melanopus) loves to hang out in it and he is only supposed to like bubble tip anemone (Entacmaea). What do you think?
<the anemone clearly is a bleached bubble-tip anemone: Entacmaea quadricolor>
It was sold to me as a bubble tip (with the rock). David A. Bidwell
<the ID was correct... although this anemone is EXTREMELY unhealthy... bleached of all zooxanthellae and soon to be dead (months) if it does not get some very regular feedings from you - finely minced meats of marine origin several times weekly or near daily. Thawed Mysid shrimp and Pacifica plankton are a good start. Anthony>
Bleached anemone... needs help II 9/18/04
Anthony, Thanks so much. I wish it were better news. The sad shape of the anemone confused me.
<understood... no worries, there is hope>
I'll be sure to feed it much more frequently (thawed Formula
Two for now) given the absence of its symbiotic food provider.
<excellent... and other fine meaty foods in time too please>
Realistically, how likely is it to return it to health? Dave
<actually... quite good. This is one of the hardiest anemones in captivity. My top pick/recommendation. Have faith and feed regularly! Anthony>
Karen's Roses
http://www.karensroseanemones.com/sa...mthepetsho.htm