Bta
- Thread starter ajer
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perfectdark
Active Member
Originally Posted by Ajer
http:///forum/post/2799144
I have a BTA. I know its normal for it at night to deflate it's bubble tips. About 30 minutes-1 hour after my lights go off in my tank the BTA deflates. Then 2-3 hours after the lights go off the BTA closes. Is this normal?
yes completely normal.
http:///forum/post/2799144
I have a BTA. I know its normal for it at night to deflate it's bubble tips. About 30 minutes-1 hour after my lights go off in my tank the BTA deflates. Then 2-3 hours after the lights go off the BTA closes. Is this normal?
yes completely normal.
perfectdark
Active Member
Originally Posted by Ajer
http:///forum/post/2799181
Also, what is the best way to feed the BTA? I have have used a bamboo skewer with the points sanded, also used a gloved hand.
Not sure if all that is necessary... I just feed my tank and it picks up food from the water column. If you want to spot feed it, mince up some raw seafood and use a turkey baster, squirt it into its tenticals. If you feed larger pieces you can place them into its tenticals with your hand, no real danger here. Their pretty mild mine has never hurt me, and I have handled it quite often.
http:///forum/post/2799181
Also, what is the best way to feed the BTA? I have have used a bamboo skewer with the points sanded, also used a gloved hand.
Not sure if all that is necessary... I just feed my tank and it picks up food from the water column. If you want to spot feed it, mince up some raw seafood and use a turkey baster, squirt it into its tenticals. If you feed larger pieces you can place them into its tenticals with your hand, no real danger here. Their pretty mild mine has never hurt me, and I have handled it quite often.
lexluethar
Active Member
Originally Posted by PerfectDark
http:///forum/post/2799275
Not sure if all that is necessary... I just feed my tank and it picks up food from the water column. If you want to spot feed it, mince up some raw seafood and use a turkey baster, squirt it into its tenticals. If you feed larger pieces you can place them into its tenticals with your hand, no real danger here. Their pretty mild mine has never hurt me, and I have handled it quite often.
Agreed. Although I do use a shrimp skewer to feed mine from time to time. I'll feed it small (smaller than its mouth) pieces of shrimp that i've smashed up to loosen the meat up. I just place the food at the end of the skewer then allow the anemone to grab the food and pull it towards its mouth. Never 'force' it to eat. Allow the anemone to grab and feed by itself. But dark is right, all that isn't necessary - its just how i've been doing it for a while and prefer to do it.
As for the danger, really no danger. If you are allergic to their venom you may have issues. Or if you have a cut it may sting a bit if it touches you. But i have also handled mine tons of times for various reasons and never have had any ill effects. Wash your hands and arms thoroughly after handing though.
http:///forum/post/2799275
Not sure if all that is necessary... I just feed my tank and it picks up food from the water column. If you want to spot feed it, mince up some raw seafood and use a turkey baster, squirt it into its tenticals. If you feed larger pieces you can place them into its tenticals with your hand, no real danger here. Their pretty mild mine has never hurt me, and I have handled it quite often.
Agreed. Although I do use a shrimp skewer to feed mine from time to time. I'll feed it small (smaller than its mouth) pieces of shrimp that i've smashed up to loosen the meat up. I just place the food at the end of the skewer then allow the anemone to grab the food and pull it towards its mouth. Never 'force' it to eat. Allow the anemone to grab and feed by itself. But dark is right, all that isn't necessary - its just how i've been doing it for a while and prefer to do it.
As for the danger, really no danger. If you are allergic to their venom you may have issues. Or if you have a cut it may sting a bit if it touches you. But i have also handled mine tons of times for various reasons and never have had any ill effects. Wash your hands and arms thoroughly after handing though.
ajer
Member
I just got the BTA 3 days ago and yesterday it opened and bubbled but today it didn't open. I did feed it yesterday. I measured all stats yesterday. No free ammonia but possibly a microscopic amount of total ammonia. No nitrites, .15 nitrates. PH, Alk, SG and temperature all normal. Also, I don't know if this is related but there are thin clear filaments on the BTA. The sand sticks to these filaments. Any help?
perfectdark
Active Member
Originally Posted by Ajer
http:///forum/post/2799297
I just got the BTA 3 days ago and yesterday it opened and bubbled but today it didn't open. I did feed it yesterday. I measured all stats yesterday. No free ammonia but possibly a microscopic amount of total ammonia. No nitrites, .15 nitrates. PH, Alk, SG and temperature all normal. Also, I don't know if this is related but there are thin clear filaments on the BTA. The sand sticks to these filaments. Any help?
Pics? Feeding alone depending on the size of the meal may make the animal act as you are describing. However, the fact you have readable amounts of ammonia is not good and the clear filaments descrip.. has me curious.
http:///forum/post/2799297
I just got the BTA 3 days ago and yesterday it opened and bubbled but today it didn't open. I did feed it yesterday. I measured all stats yesterday. No free ammonia but possibly a microscopic amount of total ammonia. No nitrites, .15 nitrates. PH, Alk, SG and temperature all normal. Also, I don't know if this is related but there are thin clear filaments on the BTA. The sand sticks to these filaments. Any help?
Pics? Feeding alone depending on the size of the meal may make the animal act as you are describing. However, the fact you have readable amounts of ammonia is not good and the clear filaments descrip.. has me curious.
ajer
Member
I did a more accurate test and no there is no ammonia.
here is a pic of it yesterday:https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/data/2/2a/2aeabd17_vbattach211105.jpg
And today:https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/data/8/81/816ba2cf_vbattach211103.jpg
And the filament(sand stuck on it)https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/data/5/59/59c75f05_vbattach211104.jpg
here is a pic of it yesterday:https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/data/2/2a/2aeabd17_vbattach211105.jpg
And today:https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/data/8/81/816ba2cf_vbattach211103.jpg
And the filament(sand stuck on it)https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/data/5/59/59c75f05_vbattach211104.jpg
perfectdark
Active Member
Just slimming off some sand no big deal. There doesnt seem to be anything unusual with it. It is a tad bleached, the foot and base have a nice brown color but the tenticals are washed out. I hope your lighting is adequate. If it is then it should recover just fine.
perfectdark
Active Member
Originally Posted by Ajer
http:///forum/post/2799346
80 watt dual PC the tank is 15 inches height and 20" long
Marginal lighting... sorry to say. And just going out on a limb but someone told you weather it was a LFS or another site that PC Lights were ok for this type of anemone. Unfortunately you were given only a half truth. The second part of what you should of heard is, tank height is critical. If I am wrong my apologies, however it doesnt change my opinion that your lighting is marginal at best. 12" or less in height and approx 5 watts per gal more would be better, then I would say ok the lighting will work.
http:///forum/post/2799346
80 watt dual PC the tank is 15 inches height and 20" long
Marginal lighting... sorry to say. And just going out on a limb but someone told you weather it was a LFS or another site that PC Lights were ok for this type of anemone. Unfortunately you were given only a half truth. The second part of what you should of heard is, tank height is critical. If I am wrong my apologies, however it doesnt change my opinion that your lighting is marginal at best. 12" or less in height and approx 5 watts per gal more would be better, then I would say ok the lighting will work.
perfectdark
Active Member
Originally Posted by Ajer
http:///forum/post/2799394
Also, I just moved the rocks so now he is a only 6 inches way from the surface and 9 away from the fixture.
Thats better, although there is no guarantee it will stay there. This is why lighting in enough intensity for it to be healthy no matter where it resides in your tank is key. And yes the 70watt viper clip on light would be perfect.
http:///forum/post/2799394
Also, I just moved the rocks so now he is a only 6 inches way from the surface and 9 away from the fixture.
Thats better, although there is no guarantee it will stay there. This is why lighting in enough intensity for it to be healthy no matter where it resides in your tank is key. And yes the 70watt viper clip on light would be perfect.
braydonosu
Member
I never had luck with my BTA under PC lighting - I now use T5's and had some success although tragically I left for a week on business and left someone in my old house in charge - needless to say when it got hot out they didn't know what to do - My tank was over 85 when I got back the thing cooked on me. I havn't used Halides, but have heard good things with BTA's under them.
perfectdark
Active Member
Mine is 5" directly under a 150 watt halide. There are some theory's that BTA's will hide from intense light. Any anemone not accustom to intense light will hide away from it once introduced. The fact is while it may hide for a bit it will adapt and be quite happy under it in a short time.