BUFFER Does Not Raise PH!!!!

57chev

Member
Its like when I was in biochem and trying to learn the kreb cycle. I said to the prof. But Sir, if there's 26 ATP's that come from the KC because GTP and ADP, and I have a patient with a slipped IVD because of a rotated SP and I cant palpate a TP, I my never become a DC and get stuck at KFC on KP, sir.........
 
T

thomas712

Guest
Sounds like someone has to many ATP on there hands. The energy of breaking it into the ADP is making you think to hard. Yeay I remember that cycle. :D
 

bang guy

Moderator

Originally posted by EUPHORIA
and what does that do in return? :)

A precipitation event will end with lower Calcium, ALK, Magnesium, and PH. Generlly heaters & powerheads will have a coating of Calcium carbonate but in large events there could be coating on every surface.
 

snipe

Active Member
Never knew it was that complicated I knew it was all connected but not like that. I myslef havent used a buffer or anything of that sort. But I would like to thank you for helping us noobs out
.
 

kyaney

Member
In order to know what a buffer will do to your tank, you have to know what a buffer is. A buffer is something that, when added, will allow the addition of an acid or a base without a change (or a minimal change) in the pH. The more effective the buffer, the more acid or base that can be added and 'absorbed'. In the body, it is the lungs and the kidneys that control the acid/base balance. We use proteins, HCO3, phosphate, and phosphate esters to buffer the addition of acids and bases to our system (H+, HCO3, CO2). A fish tank can't produce buffers, so it must rely on what we add. By adding a buffer to our tanks, we can't expect the pH to change, but to remain constant with the addition of acids and bases. The degree of buffering depends on what we used, how much we used, and to what degree the acid or base is added. In order to change the pH effectively, we would need to add either a basic compound or an acidic compound.
 

kyaney

Member
Oh yeah, a couple of more things. When using the terms 'raising pH and making more alkaline'.......they are the same thing. Neutral is about 7.0. Anything above that is basic (or alkaline) and anything below that is acidic. But then again, anything above any number is more alkaline (basic) then the original number and anything below a number is more acidic the the originl number.
 

mudplayerx

Active Member
I did not read the entire thread, so this may be redundant.
PH= The measure of the acidity or base of your water. 7 is neutral.
Alkalinity= The ability of your water to retain its current PH when acids like carbonic acid from CO2 are introduced into the water.
Anyone have any opinion on Seabuffer formula from Aquarium Systems? My PH was 7.8. After I added 1 tsp per 10 gallons, the PH went to 8.2 and has stayed there for over a month.
Seabuffer contains Sodium Bicarbonate, Sodium Carbonate, Sodium Borate.
ps- a woprd of caution, first mix up your buffer in a jar of topoff water and add it to either your filter or your sump. I added it directly to the main tank and one anemone did not like it at all. He turned inside out for over an hour but is fine since then.
 

alodar

New Member
Wow .. lots of info!
I am having a heck of a time with my pH and alkalinity. The pH is hanging around 7.8 and now my dKH is out of range (over 12 I think) thanks to using those buffers.
I did a water change (about 25%) and still no stability in the water. Was that not enough of a water change, or do I need to do something else?
 

ophiura

Active Member
Usually water changes (with RO water) will help bring things back into line. Water changes with tap water may not help this situation if it is hard water. The alkalinity will remain high. So if you are not, I would suggest switching to RO water for your water changes. What are your calcium levels?
Also note that many pH issues are related to circulation and flow in the tank. This can be an issue. What sort of circulation/skimmer are you using?
 

alodar

New Member
I've been using RO water, so that's not an issue. As far as circulation goes, I have a 100gph powerhead along with the powerhead from my filter. Keep in mind I have a 12 gallon nanocube! :joy:
Thanks for the help!
 
K

krustytheclownfish

Guest
For those that aren't reading this whole thread, look at SolonFairy's first post. She/He had some good points and suggestions.
FWIW, B-Ionic from ESV makes a 2-part calc/alk supplement that comes in either a carbonate form (for low pH systems) or a bicarbonate form (for high pH systems).
Also, be advised that calcium, pH, and alkalinity (and magnesium for that matter) are connected. Changing one effects the others. So test, test, test before you start dumping additives on your tank (Salifert makes good test kits) . Don't add anything to your tank that you don't test for. Less is usually more...contary to all the products and advertising that are out there. If you ask people that have been in this hobby for a long time, most will say they only add 1 or 2 additives to their tanks. Those are usually some form of a calcium and alkalinity supplement.
Oh, and a pH of 8.0 is fine. This hobby can be complicated enough. Don't sweat the small details. Stability is more important in measurements then trying to get something "just right". If you have a pH that is always 8.0, congrats...now you can worry about something else...like what animal to add next.
HTH
John
 

lillibirdy

Member
Thank you for starting this thread. I am eagerly trying to absorb this info. However, I am sorta feeling stupid like I can't absorb it all at the moment. My PH was stable at 7.9, and everyone seemed happy, however my Fish guy was appalled and I so upon his advice I used baking soda at first, then buffer. NOW, my alkalinity is as you said, off the charts. PH is now 8.3, but seems to drop, daily, (but not terribly) also as you said. Can you do a PH for dummies on how is best to do this balancing act...and how I can lower my alk?
thx
KathyW
 

bang guy

Moderator
I'd either let ALK fall naturally or do a water change to help it along.
ALK and Calcium need to be tracked and added together.
I'd recommend the water change and then increase water cirsulation and definately test your calcium level.
 

lillibirdy

Member
I just did a 25 % water change and still way high, it isn't my tap water, that is low. But otherwise good I think, (I have never had any algae), and am FOWLR at this point. Calcium is about 480, was even higher before buffer, (could having CC be a reason it stayed up)? If waiting it out won't hurt the fish, I will do that.
Can you tell me, when the alk gets more normal levels. How to proceed to keep PH from dropping from top offs and water changes. My LFS said baking soda and buffer, but was not clear about details. I am befuddled as to which, when, how often.... now that I have gotten on this chemical merry go round... how do I get off......any advice is greatly appreciated.
KathyW
 
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