Cathey's 55 gallon dream... my first tank

cathey

Member
I have always dreamed of having a saltwater aquarium, and recently purchased a 55 gallon tank to start my dream. I do not know what all i need. I have researched and have chosen to go with live sand to start. I know i need a hydrometer, and another water tester kit to check my ph, ammonia, and nitrates. I am thinking 2inch bed of live sand. Please give me pointers on mixing my water and time frames to add my sand, live rock, and when to add fish to the tank. I have a submersible heater and thermometer that is for a 50-75 gallon tank. Is it necessary to have air under my sand? I am going to start with fish only but hopefully as i learn more about the hobby to incorporate some coral. Are carbon filters good for saltwater, or do i need to purchase a different type of filter?
I am extremely eager to start, but i know patience is key in this hobby.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by cathey http:///t/392683/starting-a-saltwater-tank-and-am-a-complete-virgin-to-this-i-need-help-and-more-help#post_3488483
I have always dreamed of having a saltwater aquarium, and recently purchased a 55 gallon tank to start my dream. I do not know what all i need. I have researched and have chosen to go with live sand to start. I know i need a hydrometer, and another water tester kit to check my ph, ammonia, and nitrates. I am thinking 2inch bed of live sand. Please give me pointers on mixing my water and time frames to add my sand, live rock, and when to add fish to the tank. I have a submersible heater and thermometer that is for a 50-75 gallon tank. Is it necessary to have air under my sand? I am going to start with fish only but hopefully as i learn more about the hobby to incorporate some coral. Are carbon filters good for saltwater, or do i need to purchase a different type of filter?
I am extremely eager to start, but i know patience is key in this hobby.
Welcome to the site!
2 inches of live sand is good indeed. You need lab type test kits. Rock goes in before the sand and the sand is distributed around them...you can't build on shifting sand. Live rock or base rock purchased for saltwater tanks are a must. The rock used in freshwater aquariums are not suitable.
At the top of the new hobbyists section are 101 tips to get started and Snakeblitz has also put out a thread on the subject.
I don't know what type of filter you have so I don't know if you need a different one. The only one NOT
to have is an undergravel filter. You will need power heads to push the water and make a current in the tank. The wave is the live of the ocean and your saltwater tank. Leave the top open, no glass or plastic lids and no air lines.
List your equipment so we know what you have so far. Don't even think about fish until you have the tank fully cycled. We are here to help you every step of the way.
Carbon removes toxins and makes the water nice and clear, always rinse it before you use it. I have always used carbon, others have not, it isn't necessesary except under certain circumstances if you use a canister filter or a HOB with cartridges ...they have carbon that comes with them...and that's fine.
Salt mixed water is first so have it mixed before you add anything, let it churn with a power head 24 hours before use. You can also get premixed water from the fish store. (more expensive)
The first time you can mix the salt right in the tank but after you begin, a seperate tub or container will be needed for future water changes.
Use RO (reverse Osmoses) water. Either have your own unit or go to a grocery store to get it. 5g jugs is what I used for many years. Do not use tap water it will cause all kinds of algae problems later.
 

cathey

Member
I started it today. No where here in ky had a refractometer so i had to go with a hydrometer. I put in a 2 inch bed of live sand and started with 28 lbs of live rock. I did the shrimp method to start my cycle against the local aquarium supply store owner's advice. lol. He wanted me to put a damsel in to start the process, but i went with snake's advice. Didn't care much for the people there as they were rude and didn't seem to want to help me in locating anything or offer any advice. They did not have powerheads. Could someone please push me in the right direction to a reputable site that does furnish them? I would also really appreciate any suggestions as to the velocity that they need to pump for my FOWLR tank. Keep in mind guys that i just started this hobby and i am in a sense ignorant on a lot of things, but i have been researching for the past 3 weeks on this, and i plan to continue. My interest is piqued, so the hobby will have my attention for some time.
Here's my list
55 gallon glass aquarium
aquaeon 200 watt heater,
2-18" overhead 10,000 light bulbs. They are hood lights.
2- carbon filters that each are sufficient for 100 gal. tank. They are the cheap common ones.
55 lbs of live sand.
28 lbs. of live rock
and a decomposing shrimp (lol)
I used a hydrometer and my salinity is testing at 34 right now. Gravity at 1.025. Temp at 78. Are these levels gonna change much during my cycling process? I plan to invest in a refractometer, but i want to buy some other needed items first like the powerheads. I mixed the water myself with R/O water and instant ocean salt. Do i need to remove my hoods on this tank? I really do not want to, I have small children in my home. the only test kits the store had was the strip test strips, so i only bought a small bottle of 25 strips, as i plan to get the liquid kits as soon as they get some in stock. I really hate to give this store my business, it was not a pleasant shopping experience at all this morning, but they are the closet store in a 100 mile radius. I drove 66 miles there today and refused to come back home empty handed. So, i started the tank without powerheads... Is this going to kill my rock or cause any problems as long as i get them in the next week or two as the cycling process is going? Should i already start the 8 hr timers with the lighting even though the sand and rock is all that is live in the tank? My sand seems to already have settled.. i left for a few hours and upon returning my water is already cleared up. I did use the small plate to pour the water on and it worked wonderfully! I plan to add more live rock, but just wanted to get a start now. I know it doesn't look like much but these are good size base live rock to begin.


 

cathey

Member
looked on this site for a powerhead... will a hydro koralia evolution 550 be a good choice at 550 gph? Please give me some advice on this before i purchase the item?
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Hi,
I don't know the technicality of power head size...Kiefers is very good at sort of thing, so follow his advice.Two gives you better control to be sure that the water is circulated throughout the tank.
Don't feel too bad about the pet store, I have three around me, and none of them carry good equipment. I purchase almost everything on-line except fish food. Country folks get rude when you make them feel dumb or uneducated. When you go into a fish store knowing more than they do, because of information you got on a fancy computer...they are going to feel offended and act rude. It's best to just not tell them where you got your information or that you are new at everything. Make it sound like you were sent to the store for a certain thing and stay with that.
My late husband was was a good ol boy from Tennessee, right on the border of Kentucky, petstores down there cater to farmers and more into horse feed and dog food.
If you have small children, use egg crate to cover the tank and remove the hood. Egg crate can be found at any Home depot it is in the lighting department, I think it's actually called diffuser, if you ask for egg crate they look at you funny. You can also invest in a canopy, it makes the tank taller and not so easy for little fingers to reach into the tank. I think it makes the tank look nicer as well.
You won't kill your rock or sand not having a power head yet. Get them ASAP to circulate the water....you need lots more rock about 1/2 way up the tank, and it needs to be under the sand so push all the sand to one side add the rock and push the sand back into place around the rock. Make sure your rocks kind of lock into each other and is very strudy. A rock slide could kill your critters or break the tank.
I woud get at least 1 T5HO light, 10K bulb with one actinic...the fish lights that come with the hoods don't do a saltwater tank justice, the fish are so colorful and the better light will bring that out. I have the linkable T5HO they are inexpensive and are cool to the touch. It's easy to upgrade if you decide to get coral later. I use 1 over my 56g tank, and I have the 3 linked up over my 90g tank.
I still don't understand your filters...are they canister...hang on the back overflow like a Penquin or whisper style or a wet/dry sump...???? All these have carbon..LOL, what type do you have. Oh and the strip tests are fine for cycling the tank, you will need the lab type before you start adding fish.
 

cathey

Member
My filters are the hang over the back. One is a whisper 60. it is supposed to pump a little over 300gph. The other is larger and it say's regent on this. they were given to me by my sister-n-law so i do not know the gph rating on the 2nd filter. It is larger than the other and looks as if it pumps more than the whisper, but honestly i don't know for sure. I plan to purchase a canister filter later. Okay so i have been told with the powerheads that i should go with an output that is at least 15 times the gallons of my tank. Should that rating include what my filters put out or not?
I also am thinking the rock that i got from the LFS has apstacia on it. i did not put my sand and rock in a quarintine tank to start. From what i have read so far i will want rid of it... any pointers on that? I will be setting up a quarantine tank soon. plan on going with a 10 gallon with a small 155gph powerhead for it, but i am not sure if i need to have sand and rock in it also.
I have read about water changes.. How often should those take place? And should i do one soon after my tank cycles through the stages? I had found one thread that told about the characteristics of each cycle, but i can't seem to find it now. Someone please let me know what it is.. I am thinking it was posted by snake but am not sure on that.
 

cathey

Member
i did buy new lights for the hood lights that were rated for coral. They are T5HO, but they are in the hood so i will need to find another form of lighting correct since i need to leave the top open to my tank.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by cathey http:///t/392683/starting-a-saltwater-tank-and-am-a-complete-virgin-to-this-i-need-help-and-more-help#post_3488723
i did buy new lights for the hood lights that were rated for coral. They are T5HO, but they are in the hood so i will need to find another form of lighting correct since i need to leave the top open to my tank.
Don't run out and get another light just yet...
For now just leave the hinged hood part up. Do you have a picture of your light unit? Rated for coral means????? 10.000K is best to help corals grow and they have a blue or purple light along side.... most in hood lights are 5500 to 6500 and used for freshwater tanks. You want a marine light. I can't explain the details...2Quills is the guy who knows about lights. Try sending a PM to him and see what he has to say.
 

cathey

Member
The bulbs are supposed to be sufficient for coral that i bought from the LFS. They were not for a freshwater tank... they are intended for marine. I did not keep the box so i really can't tell the BTU's. I plan on making another trip to the LFS to pick up some more live rock this week and a few items i need for my quarantine tank, and i will take a look at those bulbs then and get back with you on the BTU's. I went with a 750 and 550 gph powerhead and have that installed. Am starting to see an ammonia spike. I am having problems with keeping my salinity and gravity up at the levels it needs to be? is this common when cycling your tank? My numbers are this on day #6.
Salinity 32.2
Gravity 1.024
Ammonia .5
Nitrite .5
Nitrate 10
ph 8.0
alkalinity 300
hardness 425
 

cathey

Member
Well i bought more live rock today and changed my lights... which i am guessing my ballasts are shot. It blew both of my new t8 lights 10000k. I replaced the fuses... i don't know i am at a complete loss and extremely upset with the whole lighting ordeal. Got one ballast to work. The lady at the LFS sold me the wrong fuses. Put the old one back in and i now have my blue light. On one side that is. lol
 

sweat90lx

Member
I am very new to this hobby also. My tank has been running for about 3 months.
I only have one powerhead rated at 1200 gph, so I think you better than me in that area.
I bought a cheap 4 bulb T5HO 216watt light fixture from the auction site. It is working good for me.
Dont worry about PH too much. Are you topping off the tank with freshwater daily? Saltwater does evaporate, but only water not the salt. You salinity should stay about the same.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by cathey http:///t/392683/starting-a-saltwater-tank-and-am-a-complete-virgin-to-this-i-need-help-and-more-help#post_3489394
The bulbs are supposed to be sufficient for coral that i bought from the LFS. They were not for a freshwater tank... they are intended for marine. I did not keep the box so i really can't tell the BTU's. I plan on making another trip to the LFS to pick up some more live rock this week and a few items i need for my quarantine tank, and i will take a look at those bulbs then and get back with you on the BTU's. I went with a 750 and 550 gph powerhead and have that installed. Am starting to see an ammonia spike. I am having problems with keeping my salinity and gravity up at the levels it needs to be? is this common when cycling your tank? My numbers are this on day #6.
Salinity 32.2
Gravity 1.024
Ammonia .5
Nitrite .5
Nitrate 10
ph 8.0
alkalinity 300
hardness 425
Hi,
You are wasting your test kits....only test for ammonia, and when that goes to 0, test for nitrites and if that is 0, test for nitrates. Often you can have ammonia and nitrites at the same time, but it isn't something to have to monitor. All you need to concern yourself with right now is ammonia. Once you have an ammonia spike the rest will follow.
Once you set the SG (saltiness) and keep the water level the same (top off the tank with freshwater to keep the water line always the same) as Sweat explained. Anyway you shouldn't be concerned anymore with the SG until it's time for water changes and adding live critters. So during cycle nothing else matters...I use ammonia test strips at that stage because they are fast and cheap. Save the better kits for later when it's important to have a correct reading.
 

bassinprof

New Member
Cathey, I was looking at the original picture of your live rock that you posted and it's hard to tell for sure because the water's cloudy but it looks to me like you might have a couple of aiptasia anenomes coming out of the rock. If you're not going to have corals then they may be okay but most people with corals consider aiptasia a pest. Although they can be quite pretty, they reproduce very quickly, sting corals, and are hard to eradicate once they get a foothold.
EDIT: Sorry, I didn't see above where you already noticed you had aiptasia. I would get rid of them now if I were you. The nice thing is that since you don't have other live inverts in the tank yet you don't have to worry about harming other animals. Here's a link about aiptasia: http://www.saltyunderground.com/pages.php?pID=11&CDpath=0&gclid=COuDzqjTg7ICFURxQgodiHAAWA . If you scroll down to where aiptasia elimination is covered there are several remedies. I would use Calcium Hydroxide to fill up the holes the aiptasia are living in. The good thing about this method is that you don't have to worry about it burning other animals since the tank is basically bare. Also, you can leave it there permanently and it will slowly disolve Ca and hardness into your water (which is a good thing overall).
 

cathey

Member
Sorry about the pic. I took those right after i got all the water in and sand was kicked up a bit. I noticed the aipstacia from another pic someone else posted. I had planned to do peppermint shrimp to eat it after i got my tank cycled. I will definitely read that article and check into the other options to get it under control before it takes over. Thanks for the link. I added more live rock yesterday. This brings me up to 42 lbs and i don't think i will add anymore. I really dont care much for the aquascape that my husband did, but i am glad he did get his hands wet other than surprising me with the tank a few weeks ago. I give him KUDOS... good husband surprising me with a tank to start my dream.
 

cathey

Member
here's a pic with the new rock and another of the aipstacia. There are 3 of them, but one is growing quite rapidly. It's large and i guess in charge!



 

cathey

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by sweat90lx http:///t/392683/starting-a-saltwater-tank-and-am-a-complete-virgin-to-this-i-need-help-and-more-help#post_3489540
I am very new to this hobby also. My tank has been running for about 3 months.
I only have one powerhead rated at 1200 gph, so I think you better than me in that area.
I bought a cheap 4 bulb T5HO 216watt light fixture from the auction site. It is working good for me.
Dont worry about PH too much. Are you topping off the tank with freshwater daily? Saltwater does evaporate, but only water not the salt. You salinity should stay about the same.
No, i haven't been topping the tank off with freshwater. I did add 2 gallons of saltwater to try to raise my SG when i noticed it changed a few days ago. But it is still testing low. It's not in the danger zone but i want to keep it up around 35-36 on salinity and just not getting there.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by cathey http:///t/392683/starting-a-saltwater-tank-and-am-a-complete-virgin-to-this-i-need-help-and-more-help#post_3489699
No, i haven't been topping the tank off with freshwater. I did add 2 gallons of saltwater to try to raise my SG when i noticed it changed a few days ago. But it is still testing low. It's not in the danger zone but i want to keep it up around 35-36 on salinity and just not getting there.
Just so you know..... To maintain the SG....salt remains while the water evaportates, the lower the water level the higher the SG. So mark your tank where the water level is and always keep the water at that level. Add fresh RO water to always bring it back up to that line.
A water change is an exact swap of saltwater. Remove old water and replace it with new mixed (24 hours mixing it by churning it in a tub with a power head, before using it.) Saltwater. Make sure the SG in the new mix matches the old. If want to raise the SG, just add water with higher SG as the top off instead of fresh RO... by a few degrees not all at once... over a few days until you get the SG at the proper level you want.
Aptasia stings fish as well, kill it off with Joes juice, or aptasia X, aim right in the center disc (don't touch it) just squirt the white paste on it and watch it melt and die...or add about 5 peppermint shrimp...they eat the aptasia. Never try to remove or dig it out of the rock...it will send spores and breed out of control all over the tank.
Just trying to help.
 

bassinprof

New Member
Personally, I would not wait until you can add the Peppermint shrimp. From what I understand it's hit or miss whether the shrimp will do the job and the longer you wait the longer the pests have to spread. Now's the time to take care of it so you don't have to worry about the treatment harming other things in the tank.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassinprof http:///t/392683/starting-a-saltwater-tank-and-am-a-complete-virgin-to-this-i-need-help-and-more-help#post_3489776
Personally, I would not wait until you can add the Peppermint shrimp. From what I understand it's hit or miss whether the shrimp will do the job and the longer you wait the longer the pests have to spread. Now's the time to take care of it so you don't have to worry about the treatment harming other things in the tank.
I disagree, It isn't hit or miss with peppermint shrimp...However they look very simular to camelback shrimp, and there could be a mix up with a person getting the wrong shrimp or folks feed the shrimp so they are not hungry enough to go hunting for food.
Also peps won't eat the big granddaddy aptasia...so do treat them with Joes juice or aptasia X like Bassinprof suggested, and the let the peppermint shrimp take care of any new baby crops. The biggest problem is that aptasia can grow in spots near impossible to get with the applicator so I believe you do need a critter to help keep them in check.
 
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