Center overflow

[acrylic51]

Wow......just took a close look at the tank again.....Hmmmm I'm a gambler at times.....a few things don't sit well with me.....1 being the size of the tank and no real bracing IMO.....That center section mmmmm doesn't sit easy with me......I know that's how the tank was built, but understand that the plastic trim work does nothing for structural support.....The other thing that sticks out at me if you do drill it in the middle your overflow will be smack dab under the cross bracing and be a PITA to work done in the overflow box.......I remember you saying the tank will be a room divider viewable from both sides......

 

[acrylic51]

What's the thickness of the glass......

 

[valgae]

it's 1/2". i think at this point i'm just going to drill the one side, its a 210 7x2x2. I think i typoed earlier and put 240. As far as the CL...i'll have to check out above the rim possibilities. would like to keep this tank as clean as possible, w/o powerheads.

 

[valgae]

Should I add extra bracing at the ends?? 16" of 1/2" at both ends?

 

[acrylic51]

Quote:
Originally Posted by VALgae http:///t/393561/center-overflow/20#post_3502120
it's 1/2". i think at this point i'm just going to drill the one side, its a 210 7x2x2. I think i typoed earlier and put 240. As far as the CL...i'll have to check out above the rim possibilities. would like to keep this tank as clean as possible, w/o powerheads.
Again I can't be sure if the bottom is tempered or not, but I think your safest bet would be to drill the end.....I could come up with tons of ideas on the center overflow, but without being 100% positive it was truly a glass bottom I wouldn't even attempt without first contacting Oceanic.......
Drilling the side wouldn't be that bad......Honestly I would consider and look at the BeanAnimal overflow design....Others might suggest alternative methods, but trust me this is a good, proven quite easy system to build and incorporate and will handle any flow rate and is easily fine tuned; unlike other designs......With that said I'd go "coast to coast" on the end of the tank......I would incorporate my returns up as high as possible.....I would also bring my returns back into the tank on the opposite side of the overflow....As Seth mentioned earlier look into loc line for the return pipe work inside the DT to make it adjustable to where you want and need. I suggest the returns opposite from the overflow to maximize the efficiency of the return.....I don't remember what page in my build thread, but I go into a bit about using "flow" efficiently and I cited a very good reference source on water movement inside the DT.....This is where I feel a lot of us fail at using our flow to the max......Again your not trying to get all your flow through your return pump, but this flow could/should be used to direct the detritus towards the overflow, where it can be removed from the DT......
With that being said your CL can easily be hidden and somewhat clean in the DT.....This is an area where I'm very anal about.....I don't like seeing ph's or tons of plumbing inside the DT.....To me it distracts from the overall appearance. Again personal preference, but I even go so far as to paint my plumbing or grates to blend with it's surroundings.....My tank is acrylic and when building the tank I thought ahead about the back and side of the tank being black and painted my bulkheads and grates black to blend with the panels......
Your CL returns can be drilled where you choose.....Well I guess there is some limitations, but this is where some deep thought and planning comes into play.......Again these can be drilled in the sides, and back panels....If you look at the OceansMotions website it will give you some good ideas or points on laying out your supply for your CL pump.....Again just a guide, but a lot of you'll have to think about your layout.....

 

[valgae]

OK, so I'm really liking the bean animal overflow. He had me at dead silent. Thinking about selling this tank and buying a new one. Most of what I'm wanting to do is really dependent on that bottom glass. Otherwise I've got a 2x2 pane of glass to put everything through. One thing i didnt find is specs on the overflow box itself. Any ideas??

 

[acrylic51]

Your referring to specs on the BeanAnimal overflow......

 

[valgae]

yes, ideal LxWXH and how tall to make the stand pipes?? i really appreciate your time. thank you.

 

[acrylic51]

Honestly it's the same overflow I'm using on my system.....There is no exact science or plan as to the dimensions of your overflow box......The limiting factor to the design is the diameter of the bulkheads that will determine what you can flow......My overflow is basically the length of my side of my tank, and don't remember the height of the overflow box, but the height of the standpipe you have to determine.....I made some originally and ran the system, and depending how high the standpipes are in the overflow box will determine a bit of noise as well....If your standpipes are short and you have water dropping a bit of a distance it will be noisey from that portion, but you can make them a hair under the height of your teeth in your overflow if you choose, and that quiets the noise from water dropping a distance......There is so much you have to input into the layout, there isn't 1 exact size for all.....






Again another pic of standpipes inside the overflow box.....I used 1 1/2" bulkheads and plumbing on my system......Again sizes are entirely up to you, but 1" would be minimum.....

This is a shot from inside the tank looking at the teeth of the overflow box.....Those teeth are actually removable grates I fabricated when building the tank.....

A quick pic of the valve and connection layout.....You only need 1 valve on the overflow.....That is the pipe in the middle.....The far left pipe is my emergency line incase the siphon line would clog for whatever unknown reason.....
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Another quick shot of my external overflow box.....You can see my standpipes aren't anything special, but they are laid out in detail in the BeanAnimal overflow thread.....but you can see the down turned elbow if that were to be raised higher it would make the water dropping from the teeth of the overflow into the overflow box less, which minimizes noise as well......

A basic pic of the inside of my overflow box.....Again my overflow box is external and is the length basically of the side of my tank.....
If you have some basic ideas of how you want to lay your overflow box out and what plans you've come up with I'm sure a few masterminds can easily help you put it together and pull it off.....What return pump have you chosen......Sump size......

 

[valgae]

I'm using a 55L for my sump and as of about 3pm today the tank is going against a wall, making a lot of this so much easier. Going w/ the bean overflow, 1.25" bulkheads into 1.5" pvc and 2 returns w/ the mag 18 for now. A closed loop w/ the dart hybrid-4 returns(too many?).

 

[acrylic51]

Ok.....Which end of the tank for the overflow......Personally I wouldn't use 1.25" bulkheads....IMO an odd ball size, but hey to each it's own.....I question bulkhead size for the other reason your going with 1.5" pipe.....So, why bother using 1.25" bulkheads.....Doesn't make much sense.....As far as the return pump.....Wouldn't even consider it in my design.....Compare that Mag to the WaterBlaster 7000.....WaterBlaster a heck of a lot better pump....Cost wise WaterBlaster more money, but look at the electrical consumption of the MagDrive vs WaterBlaster and the heat addition to the tank from the Mag.....To me WaterBlaster definitely a wiser choice over the long haul.....Personally though if it was my build it would be the Dart Hybrid pump used for the return, but swap the impeller out to the Snapper impeller since you don't need the Dart flow for the return per say.....
As far as the CL.....Again the Hybrid Dart a good choice, and 4 returns.....Well what are your intentions....Just dropping lines back into the tank or drilling 4 bulkhead holes strategically or employing something like an OceansMotions device.....