fishman7771
New Member
I'm just trying to determine if it's even worth it to use the chaeto. Planning to put in a hang On refugium 14"L x 4"W x 13.5"H. Would i notice a difference of my nitrates and phos decreasing for my 75 gallon reef tank.
chaeto is it worth it?
- Thread starter fishman7771
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jackri
Active Member
My 90 gallon went 4 months without a water change while I was gone with for some military training -- with a skimmer and cheato is all for cleaning the water. Tested parameters when I came back and nitrates and phospates were 0
I'm a believer in cheato -- it feeds on the same nutrients that nuissance algae feeds on so given the option why wouldn't you?
I'm a believer in cheato -- it feeds on the same nutrients that nuissance algae feeds on so given the option why wouldn't you?
jackri
Active Member
Originally Posted by nwdyr
http:///forum/post/2886068
I never had a algae problem , added Cheato because everyone here said it was the thing to do....well then I got a algae problem!
So I removed it and have not had a problem since
Did you change anything else at the same time? Cheato competes with bad algae for food... so the two shouldn't go hand in hand but compete for food and drive the other out.
http:///forum/post/2886068
I never had a algae problem , added Cheato because everyone here said it was the thing to do....well then I got a algae problem!
Did you change anything else at the same time? Cheato competes with bad algae for food... so the two shouldn't go hand in hand but compete for food and drive the other out.
culp
Active Member
Originally Posted by jackri
http:///forum/post/2886545
Did you change anything else at the same time? Cheato competes with bad algae for food... so the two shouldn't go hand in hand but compete for food and drive the other out.
i would agree. Cheato is support to out compete over algae.
http:///forum/post/2886545
Did you change anything else at the same time? Cheato competes with bad algae for food... so the two shouldn't go hand in hand but compete for food and drive the other out.
i would agree. Cheato is support to out compete over algae.
florida joe
Well-Known Member
What are you nitrate readings with that configuration you are not going to get much tumbling if any of the Cheato. Look into caulerpa for your refug only
It is not a question of out competing it’s a question of which algae gets the most exposure to the nutrients
It is always the Island guys I spent many a day clamming the Schafer beds when I spent my summers in Brentwood
It is not a question of out competing it’s a question of which algae gets the most exposure to the nutrients
It is always the Island guys I spent many a day clamming the Schafer beds when I spent my summers in Brentwood
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Personally, I believe fuges have their place - if you want pod production or a remote deep sandbed or the look of greenery and the thought of nitrate and phosphate reduction.
If you want just nitrate and phosphate exportation, I would also look into a turf algae scrubber...
If you want just nitrate and phosphate exportation, I would also look into a turf algae scrubber...
ret talbot
Member
This probably goes without saying, but a fuge on a contrasting lighting scheme also assists greatly with mitigating pH spikes.
Chaeto it is for me (and seagrasses), as most caulerpa is a no no here in California.
Ret
www.SaltwaterSense.com
Chaeto it is for me (and seagrasses), as most caulerpa is a no no here in California.
Ret
www.SaltwaterSense.com
J
jojo727
Guest
i second SnakeBlitz
socal57che
Active Member
I recently converted an Aquaclear HOB into a chaetomorpha chamber. While the chaeto will not tumble, the water is forced through the mass of macroalgae by the filter pump. Mine is growing nicely and I prune it back when it grows out the overflow. I pull it out and swish it around in saltwater from a water change during service to the filter pad which I chose to use.
I place the critters (pods and stars) back into the chamber with the chaeto.
Whether it actually helps or not, it gives me another 1/2 gallon of water volume as well as extra filtration. That makes me happy, so it's worth it.
I place the critters (pods and stars) back into the chamber with the chaeto.
Whether it actually helps or not, it gives me another 1/2 gallon of water volume as well as extra filtration. That makes me happy, so it's worth it.
florida joe
Well-Known Member
I personally would go with caulerpa
mboswell1982
Active Member
what do you think about derbesia as a macro algae joe?
florida joe
Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by mboswell1982
http:///forum/post/2939064
what do you think about derbesia as a macro algae joe?
I have heard some good things but to tell you the truth all I know about it is what fallows
The many species of Derbesia are members of green algae (division Chlorophyta), where they belong to order Caulerpales, in the family Derbeciaceae. The genus Derbesia seems to be cosmopolitic with species found in cold, temperate and tropical waters. The most commonly mentioned species is Derbesia marina, which is reported from Polynesia (Payri & al., 2000), from the Caribbean (Littler & al, 1989), from the Mediterranean (Riedl, 1983) and from cold waters, such as from the Atlantic, North Sea, and along the Norwegian coast (Nicholls, 1976). It has been observed the algae myself in the Maldives and along the coast of Norway, and as mentioned above, is found it to be very common and often abundant in marine aquariums.
THE REPRODUCTIVE CYCLE OF Derbesia (From Hoek & al (1978) in Foss堦amp; Nilsen (1996). Derbesia is a heteromorphic diplohaplont. This means that during a complete life cycle the algae alters between a haploid and a diploid stage that appear differently. The sporophyte is the algae threads , which develop pear-shaped sporangia that are attached to the algae threads by a little stalk. Inside the sporangia, zoospores develop by the means of meiosis. About half of the zoospores settle and develop to female gametophytes while the other half settle and develop to male gametophytes . The gametophytes grow to about 5 mm height and are known as Halicystis-stages. The Halicystis contain chloroplasts and many nuclei and a large vacuole in the centre. The fertile male gametophyte develops light-green patches and male gametes are released through pores The female gametophyte develops dark-green patches and releases female gametes . The gamete fuses to a zygote that settles and grows to a new sporophyte. The life cycle is completed.
http:///forum/post/2939064
what do you think about derbesia as a macro algae joe?
I have heard some good things but to tell you the truth all I know about it is what fallows
The many species of Derbesia are members of green algae (division Chlorophyta), where they belong to order Caulerpales, in the family Derbeciaceae. The genus Derbesia seems to be cosmopolitic with species found in cold, temperate and tropical waters. The most commonly mentioned species is Derbesia marina, which is reported from Polynesia (Payri & al., 2000), from the Caribbean (Littler & al, 1989), from the Mediterranean (Riedl, 1983) and from cold waters, such as from the Atlantic, North Sea, and along the Norwegian coast (Nicholls, 1976). It has been observed the algae myself in the Maldives and along the coast of Norway, and as mentioned above, is found it to be very common and often abundant in marine aquariums.
THE REPRODUCTIVE CYCLE OF Derbesia (From Hoek & al (1978) in Foss堦amp; Nilsen (1996). Derbesia is a heteromorphic diplohaplont. This means that during a complete life cycle the algae alters between a haploid and a diploid stage that appear differently. The sporophyte is the algae threads , which develop pear-shaped sporangia that are attached to the algae threads by a little stalk. Inside the sporangia, zoospores develop by the means of meiosis. About half of the zoospores settle and develop to female gametophytes while the other half settle and develop to male gametophytes . The gametophytes grow to about 5 mm height and are known as Halicystis-stages. The Halicystis contain chloroplasts and many nuclei and a large vacuole in the centre. The fertile male gametophyte develops light-green patches and male gametes are released through pores The female gametophyte develops dark-green patches and releases female gametes . The gamete fuses to a zygote that settles and grows to a new sporophyte. The life cycle is completed.
socal57che
Active Member
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/2938713
I personally would go with caulerpa
While I agree that caulerpa is more efficient than chaeto, (having used both) I live in Kalifornia and Cranberry is the only person I know that has the stuff.
Caulerpa's faster growth rate means it pulls more nutrients from the water column in a given time. My chaeto, however, has never nuked my tank with expelled nutrients. I leave for weeks at a time and can't be there to monitor the caulerpa. I think caulerpa has it's place, but it's not for everyone.
That being said...were you talking to me?
http:///forum/post/2938713
I personally would go with caulerpa
While I agree that caulerpa is more efficient than chaeto, (having used both) I live in Kalifornia and Cranberry is the only person I know that has the stuff.
Caulerpa's faster growth rate means it pulls more nutrients from the water column in a given time. My chaeto, however, has never nuked my tank with expelled nutrients. I leave for weeks at a time and can't be there to monitor the caulerpa. I think caulerpa has it's place, but it's not for everyone.
That being said...were you talking to me?
florida joe
Well-Known Member
Just a note on the decline of nitrates. As I have stated before denitrification takes a while to establish. While all forms of higher algae will reduce nitrates I think the hobbyist needs to remember that the sum of all their denitrification process capabilities may just be maturing And not just the new addition of one
