Cleaner Shrimp and Nitrates

michael r

michael r

Member
Well, I'm seriously looking out for a cleaning organism for my aquarium now, and my favourite (apart from the notoriously difficult Cleaner Wrasse), is the Cleaner Shrimp.
I believe they are quite hardy, and as long as you don't have fish that are likely to eat them, you'll be fine.
I only have 2 Ocellaris Clownfish for now, and would like one of these shrimps, just to witness their interesting behaviour.
My main question is regarding the shrimp and nitrates:
This aquarium is FOWLR, and although my nitrates are under control (at 20ppm), I was wondering if they would be considered high for the shrimp? Are the shrimp at all affected by the nitrates?
I have quite a bit of macro algae growing in my DT (it's like a giant refugium) which I've added to help reduce the nitrates. It's growing wildly right now, so I assume it must be absorbing quite a bit of nutrients.
My second question is regarding this shrimp and Butterflyfish or Tangs. Would Kole Tangs, Foxfaces or Blackback Butterflyfish pick on the shrimp?
Thanks,
Michael
 
petjunkie

petjunkie

Active Member
Well I know my pet store under old ownership had two in a 90 gallon fowlr with nitrates over 100. I would think they would be fine but I would try to get them down to 10 before adding them just to be safe, it's easier for things to adjust slowly to higher nitrates than jump straight into them. I don't believe any of your fish will pick on them but you never know.
 
miaheatlvr

miaheatlvr

Active Member
Originally Posted by Michael R
Well, I'm seriously looking out for a cleaning organism for my aquarium now, and my favourite (apart from the notoriously difficult Cleaner Wrasse), is the Cleaner Shrimp.
I believe they are quite hardy, and as long as you don't have fish that are likely to eat them, you'll be fine.
I only have 2 Ocellaris Clownfish for now, and would like one of these shrimps, just to witness their interesting behaviour.
My main question is regarding the shrimp and nitrates:
This aquarium is FOWLR, and although my nitrates are under control (at 20ppm), I was wondering if they would be considered high for the shrimp? Are the shrimp at all affected by the nitrates?
I have quite a bit of macro algae growing in my DT (it's like a giant refugium) which I've added to help reduce the nitrates. It's growing wildly right now, so I assume it must be absorbing quite a bit of nutrients.
My second question is regarding this shrimp and Butterflyfish or Tangs. Would Kole Tangs, Foxfaces or Blackback Butterflyfish pick on the shrimp?
Thanks,
Michael
Inverts are not tolerant to high Nitrates or fluxuations of salinity, Your 20ppm or under should be fine as long as the acclimation is a long patient one, All those fish you have mentioned are fine with a cleaner and hopefully will look forward to being cleaned.
 
michael r

michael r

Member
My salinity flunctuations are extremely minute, and I haven't really noticed any.
My aquarium has glass covers (it's not a reef), and so almost all of the surface is covered. Very little water evaporates, but nonetheless I will attempt to keep the salinity stable.
With my nitrates, how do you recommend I lower them? And also, how long do you recommend the acclimation process to be?
 
miaheatlvr

miaheatlvr

Active Member
Originally Posted by Michael R
My salinity flunctuations are extremely minute, and I haven't really noticed any.
My aquarium has glass covers (it's not a reef), and so almost all of the surface is covered. Very little water evaporates, but nonetheless I will attempt to keep the salinity stable.
With my nitrates, how do you recommend I lower them? And also, how long do you recommend the acclimation process to be?
Read the acclimation process here in the tab over on the left, Nitrate Control is controlled by regular water changes pending on bioload, and finding out where the are coing from and cotrolling that,, do you have live rock and live sand? That will help with your nitrates, Do yo have a refugium or plan on getting one? That is the best way to control nitrates? DO not overfeed, feed once every two days. Clean out you filters,, what are you using for filtration?
 
michael r

michael r

Member
I have Live Rock, but not Live Sand. I have no refugium, but I have quite a few species of macro algae growing in my display tank. I don't believe that a refugium for me is necessary.
I thought that you should feed your fish (depending on the species) several times a day? I've been told to feed my clownfish two or three times a day, in small portions.
I have 75 lbs. of Live Rock, and Eheim 2215 canister filter and an Aquaclear 500 power filter, as well as a Coralife SS 125 skimmer, and a Maxi-Jet 900 powerhead.
Oh, and yeah I know the procedure, I used it with my clowns. Just wondering how long I should make it for the shrimp?
I did about 1.5 hrs. for the clownfish.
 
miaheatlvr

miaheatlvr

Active Member
Originally Posted by Michael R
I have Live Rock, but not Live Sand. I have no refugium, but I have quite a few species of macro algae growing in my display tank. I don't believe that a refugium for me is necessary.
I thought that you should feed your fish (depending on the species) several times a day? I've been told to feed my clownfish two or three times a day, in small portions.
I have 75 lbs. of Live Rock, and Eheim 2215 canister filter and an Aquaclear 500 power filter, as well as a Coralife SS 125 skimmer, and a Maxi-Jet 900 powerhead.
What kind of substrate dd you have? CRusshe coral? this is bad and non biological and is infamous for trapping nitrates, PLEASE DO NOT FEED YOUR FISH SMALL PORTIONS 3 TIMES A DAY, once every other day is fine(This will result in phospahtes and nitrates), CHECK your eheim,, canister filters are notorious nitrate traps and need to maintained constantly and cleaned constantly. Check your floss in you AQUACLEAR,, SKIMMER is good andand your maxjet is good as well. What kind or Macro algae do you have and is it GROWING?
 
michael r

michael r

Member
Yes, I have Crushed Coral. I realize it is considered bad on these boards, but actually most people see no problem with it, unless you have a reef. It may not lower nitrates, but as long as it's clean it doesn't have any other drawbacks.
Thanks for the information, I will certainly start feeding my clownfish much less.
My filters have only been running for approx. two months. I changed the media and cleaned them both out before I started this aquarium up as saltwater.
I believe I have 2 species of Caulerpa (Caulerpa serrulata [Razor Ribbon Caulerpa] and Caulerpa racemosa [Grape Caulerpa]) as well as a Chaetomorpha sp. The two Caulerpas are growing wildly, just crazily! Easily doubled in size since I bought them two weeks ago.
The Chaetomorpha is alive, but I definately haven't seen much growth from it. It is a very nice, dark green, slightly bluish. I believe it is doing alright, just not much growth, although I may not see it as it seems to be largely covered by the Caulerpa.
 
miaheatlvr

miaheatlvr

Active Member
Originally Posted by Michael R
Yes, I have Crushed Coral. I realize it is considered bad on these boards, but actually most people see no problem with it, unless you have a reef. It may not lower nitrates, but as long as it's clean it doesn't have any other drawbacks.
Thanks for the information, I will certainly start feeding my clownfish much less.
My filters have only been running for approx. two months. I changed the media and cleaned them both out before I started this aquarium up as saltwater.
I believe I have 2 species of Caulerpa (Caulerpa serrulata [Razor Ribbon Caulerpa] and Caulerpa racemosa [Grape Caulerpa]) as well as a Chaetomorpha sp. The two Caulerpas are growing wildly, just crazily! Easily doubled in size since I bought them two weeks ago.
The Chaetomorpha is alive, but I definately haven't seen much growth from it. It is a very nice, dark green, slightly bluish. I believe it is doing alright, just not much growth, although I may not see it as it seems to be largely covered by the Caulerpa.
Okay good start with the macro,, BUT do some research on the Caulerpa going sexual and disolving and dumping toxins into the tank, VERY VERY BAD thats why people are going with the CHAETO,, its good that your Caulerpa is growing, its sucking up those nitrates, Chaeto likes water flow and like to tumble if possible,,ALSO i think you can SYPHON that crushed coral, I bet you will suck up a bucket full of BLACK WATER, and keep those filters CLEAN!!!
 
michael r

michael r

Member
Alright, no problem.
I can easily move the Chaeto into an area of good flow, and I will read about hte caulerpa. I will syphon the crushed coral as well.
Oh, and how long for the shrimp acclimation again
?
 
sigmachris

sigmachris

Active Member
2 plus hours by drip acclimation.
If you look at the livestock for sale on this website at the bottom of each page there is a description of compatibility, diet, and acclimation times.
 
earlybird

earlybird

Active Member
Originally Posted by Michael R
Alright, no problem.
I can easily move the Chaeto into an area of good flow, and I will read about hte caulerpa. I will syphon the crushed coral as well.
Oh, and how long for the shrimp acclimation again
?
No less than 1.5 hrs IMO. I did 2 hrs. Really depends on the difference between the water (salinity).
 
kilhullen

kilhullen

Member
Since your topic has transferred to acclimation times, I have a question about that. When I had a freshwater tank I didn't know about drip acclimation, nor did I know not to pour the water from the store into the bag. Now I am trying to set up my SW tanks and do it right the first time. I have read the drip acclimation method, and am in complete agreement with it, I just have a few questions.
If slower is better, how slow is TOO slow? If you are constantly dripping water in, and you wanted to be very careful about it would it be bad to extend it even further, such as to 3 hours? There is one invertebrate I want to get eventually that is very touchy about the acclimation period, and I want to make sure it is extremely acclimated so I don't loose him due to rushing it. If I go that long should I put a powerhead in, or a filter, or a heater in? Not to sound OCD, but what if I made it go even longer?
 
miaheatlvr

miaheatlvr

Active Member
Originally Posted by Kilhullen
Since your topic has transferred to acclimation times, I have a question about that. When I had a freshwater tank I didn't know about drip acclimation, nor did I know not to pour the water from the store into the bag. Now I am trying to set up my SW tanks and do it right the first time. I have read the drip acclimation method, and am in complete agreement with it, I just have a few questions.
If slower is better, how slow is TOO slow? If you are constantly dripping water in, and you wanted to be very careful about it would it be bad to extend it even further, such as to 3 hours? There is one invertebrate I want to get eventually that is very touchy about the acclimation period, and I want to make sure it is extremely acclimated so I don't loose him due to rushing it. If I go that long should I put a powerhead in, or a filter, or a heater in? Not to sound OCD, but what if I made it go even longer?
You do not need to go over the 2hrs, i just dont feel its necessary. I mean if people are acclimating at 3 hrs with success, why to you fell comtemplated to go 3+ hrs or more? IMO
 
kilhullen

kilhullen

Member
Originally Posted by MiaHeatLvr
You do not need to go over the 2hrs, i just dont feel its necessary. I mean if people are acclimating at 3 hrs with success, why to you fell comtemplated to go 3+ hrs or more? IMO
I really don't know that I would want to for sure, I just know that a fire shrimp (which is what I am wanting), is very sensitive to the acclimation process per many posts here and on other groups I am reading. So before I buy it and loose him because I get impatient, I am just trying to devise a strategy up front. I am a planner, not a reactor - Just new here so not many people know my style yet. I ask tons and TONS of questions for two reasons. The people here and elsewhere are very willing to share their experience and their knowledge. Where if I had to do this by myself I would be fooking it ALL up all over the place. So, it is just a question trying to find the maximum (both for sanity, and for saftey of the animal). 3+ hours does understandably sound a bit extreme, but that is why I used it, because if that extreme was acceptable, then would 4, 5, 6, be acceptable? The second reason for all my questions is because I don't really know what questions to ask, so often as soon as one pops into my head I try to find a proper place to ask it, because if I am wondering about it, I figure someone else must be too - I am unique but not THAT unique
hehehe.
I do appreciate all the answers you have given me and others all over the place. You are helping me not make stupid mistakes.
 
michael r

michael r

Member
Actually I was thinking the same thing Kilhullen: Would acclimating the shrimp for approximately 3 hrs. actually be any better than for 2 hrs?
I really don't want it to experience any 'nitrate shock' as I understand my nitrates are a little bit high, so I want to be very careful with the shrimp.
 
kilhullen

kilhullen

Member
Originally Posted by Michael R
Actually I was thinking the same thing Kilhullen: Would acclimating the shrimp for approximately 3 hrs. actually be any better than for 2 hrs?
I really don't want it to experience any 'nitrate shock' as I understand my nitrates are a little bit high, so I want to be very careful with the shrimp.
See, I knew if I was wondering it someone else was too!
 
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