cleaning live rock part 2
- Thread starter u mike
- Start date
u mike
Member
Originally Posted by tank a holic
http:///forum/post/3182883
is that a phosphate test? or nitrate's?
either way all test results should be 0.0 with ro/di water
is this water you have already added salt to?
what kind of salt do you use?
is it time to change your ro filter media?
that was a phosphate test the test kit is called red sea
yes that was salt water there was some left that I am using for my qt
salt brand is instant ocean reef mix
ro water comes from store
http:///forum/post/3182883
is that a phosphate test? or nitrate's?
either way all test results should be 0.0 with ro/di water
is this water you have already added salt to?
what kind of salt do you use?
is it time to change your ro filter media?
that was a phosphate test the test kit is called red sea
yes that was salt water there was some left that I am using for my qt
salt brand is instant ocean reef mix
ro water comes from store
u mike
Member
Originally Posted by Bang Guy
http:///forum/post/3183100
Refuse containers made from recycled materials are known for leeching phosphates. Especially when filled with RO/DI water. Try testing the water directly from your filter.
today when I came home from work I tested again for phosphate really did not see a major change according to test . I am seeing a change on power heads, looks like a white fuzz where the alage was.( I am guessing that things are ready to start breaking down) according to lfs the combination of products will start to break the phos down. I am going to google some info about the 2nd part called rowa (this is what goes in filter to trap the phos particles.
http:///forum/post/3183100
Refuse containers made from recycled materials are known for leeching phosphates. Especially when filled with RO/DI water. Try testing the water directly from your filter.
today when I came home from work I tested again for phosphate really did not see a major change according to test . I am seeing a change on power heads, looks like a white fuzz where the alage was.( I am guessing that things are ready to start breaking down) according to lfs the combination of products will start to break the phos down. I am going to google some info about the 2nd part called rowa (this is what goes in filter to trap the phos particles.
u mike
Member
Originally Posted by Bang Guy
http:///forum/post/3183100
Refuse containers made from recycled materials are known for leeching phosphates. Especially when filled with RO/DI water. Try testing the water directly from your filter.
today I went to lfs got 15 gal ro/di water, tested it before I put it in trash can & before I added my salt saw a big difference. when I tested dt I am still way off from matching the ro/di water. how will I know or how much should I keep doing water changes to match both waters ?
http:///forum/post/3183100
Refuse containers made from recycled materials are known for leeching phosphates. Especially when filled with RO/DI water. Try testing the water directly from your filter.
today I went to lfs got 15 gal ro/di water, tested it before I put it in trash can & before I added my salt saw a big difference. when I tested dt I am still way off from matching the ro/di water. how will I know or how much should I keep doing water changes to match both waters ?
bang guy
Moderator
Originally Posted by u mike
http:///forum/post/3184258
today I went to lfs got 15 gal ro/di water, tested it before I put it in trash can & before I added my salt saw a big difference. when I tested dt I am still way off from matching the ro/di water. how will I know or how much should I keep doing water changes to match both waters ?
Can you rephrase that? I'm not following the question (it's Monday)
http:///forum/post/3184258
today I went to lfs got 15 gal ro/di water, tested it before I put it in trash can & before I added my salt saw a big difference. when I tested dt I am still way off from matching the ro/di water. how will I know or how much should I keep doing water changes to match both waters ?
Can you rephrase that? I'm not following the question (it's Monday)
u mike
Member
Originally Posted by Bang Guy
http:///forum/post/3184459
Can you rephrase that? I'm not following the question (it's Monday)
o k lets try again
1st not a good idea by me to chat after a day of watching football & having a few cold ones.
what I am asking is I went to the lfs to get more water, when I got home I tested the water. I saw a big difference between my dt water & the ro / di water .( remember i am testing for phosphate)
Just wondering how long will it take to get the dt up to the same quality as the ro / di water.I am hoping because I was using reg tap water( up until the last 3/4 months) that the larger water changes will change things. according to the chart that comes with test kit my reading was 0.2 the water from store was 1.0.
http:///forum/post/3184459
Can you rephrase that? I'm not following the question (it's Monday)
o k lets try again
1st not a good idea by me to chat after a day of watching football & having a few cold ones.
what I am asking is I went to the lfs to get more water, when I got home I tested the water. I saw a big difference between my dt water & the ro / di water .( remember i am testing for phosphate)
Just wondering how long will it take to get the dt up to the same quality as the ro / di water.I am hoping because I was using reg tap water( up until the last 3/4 months) that the larger water changes will change things. according to the chart that comes with test kit my reading was 0.2 the water from store was 1.0.
bang guy
Moderator
Originally Posted by u mike
http:///forum/post/3184820
according to the chart that comes with test kit my reading was 0.2 the water from store was 1.0.
If the store RO/DI has a Phosphate level of 1.0 then you are getting ripped off. It should read 0.0 for Phosphate, no question. If it's above 0.0 then their DI rosins are expended and need to be replaced.
As far as your DT, tap water was only one source of Phosphate. Fish food, and all protein, will have Phosphate, it's the nature of the beast. Reducing a source is a great benefit but you still need a way to remove any other excess Phosphate. An algae scrubber, Phosphate pads, etc. will help remove it. Reducing your feeding, if possible, is also a way to reduce what you're introducing.
http:///forum/post/3184820
according to the chart that comes with test kit my reading was 0.2 the water from store was 1.0.
If the store RO/DI has a Phosphate level of 1.0 then you are getting ripped off. It should read 0.0 for Phosphate, no question. If it's above 0.0 then their DI rosins are expended and need to be replaced.
As far as your DT, tap water was only one source of Phosphate. Fish food, and all protein, will have Phosphate, it's the nature of the beast. Reducing a source is a great benefit but you still need a way to remove any other excess Phosphate. An algae scrubber, Phosphate pads, etc. will help remove it. Reducing your feeding, if possible, is also a way to reduce what you're introducing.
tank a holic
Active Member
+1
if thats the case you dont want to get the tank "up" to the level of the ro water, if you do you'll never get rid of algae
you need to get a ro/di unit and find a new LFS IMO
heck i bet your tap water is better than that
if thats the case you dont want to get the tank "up" to the level of the ro water, if you do you'll never get rid of algae
you need to get a ro/di unit and find a new LFS IMO
heck i bet your tap water is better than that
flower
Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by u mike
http:///forum/post/3181441
today as I did my 15 gal water change, I took all my rock out scrubed it with a toothbrush, with my old water. Got as much of the loose alage out as I took water out. Tomorrow I will test water. There is still small amount of alage on rocks will keep eye on how fast it starts to grow. If anyone can throw some tips my way it would be helpful. Also cleaned power heads,turned lights down one hour.
Threads so long I didn't read through it all.
I cleaned my rock just as you have done, THEN I added my algae eaters...since they now had a fighting chance. My choice for a 90g was a lawnmower blenny, blue spotted Kole tang and some emerald crabs.
I use only RO water and I watch my phosphates, anything above .01 and I use phosphate-E to get it back down to almost nothing. I now rinse my frozen thawed food before I feed the fish. NOTE: I have not had to dose the tank for phosphates for 4 months now.
My special CUC has kept things in check for many months. I do see some hair algae way up at the top of the tank in the back, I wipe it off with a paper towel during water changes....nothing is on the rock.
So now that your rocks are scrubbed, get a special CUC to keep it in check that your size tank can manage.
u mike
Member
Originally Posted by Flower
http:///forum/post/3186011
Threads so long I didn't read through it all.
I cleaned my rock just as you have done, THEN I added my algae eaters...since they now had a fighting chance. My choice for a 90g was a lawnmower blenny, blue spotted Kole tang and some emerald crabs.
I use only RO water and I watch my phosphates, anything above .01 and I use phosphate-E to get it back down to almost nothing. I now rinse my frozen thawed food before I feed the fish. NOTE: I have not had to dose the tank for phosphates for 4 months now.
My special CUC has kept things in check for many months. I do see some hair algae way up at the top of the tank in the back, I wipe it off with a paper towel during water changes....nothing is on the rock.
So now that your rocks are scrubbed, get a special CUC to keep it in check that your size tank can manage.
I am working on getting more alage eaters
also have a phosphate product working as we speak, I see a huge difference in one week.
as I wrote before I am going to beat this!!!!
tank a holic
Active Member
hows everything goin?
u mike
Member
Originally Posted by tank a holic
http:///forum/post/3189524
hows everything goin?
things are better not great yet, having a problem getting water from lfs ( ro /di machine is broke ). any way I have about 7 gal in trash can from last week left over will use that tomorrow. also will change the rowa pad that is in canister ( it is about 2 weeks old ) I am thinking since I had a high amount of phosphate a new one can't hurt. also will take a few rocks out and scrub. just added 2 emerald crabs on monday. will contuine to use the phosphate - e also. I have noticed that the alage on glass really comes off easy since i added the phosphate - e . also working on getting some picks of tank.
http:///forum/post/3189524
hows everything goin?
things are better not great yet, having a problem getting water from lfs ( ro /di machine is broke ). any way I have about 7 gal in trash can from last week left over will use that tomorrow. also will change the rowa pad that is in canister ( it is about 2 weeks old ) I am thinking since I had a high amount of phosphate a new one can't hurt. also will take a few rocks out and scrub. just added 2 emerald crabs on monday. will contuine to use the phosphate - e also. I have noticed that the alage on glass really comes off easy since i added the phosphate - e . also working on getting some picks of tank.
tank a holic
Active Member
I highly recommend getting a ro/di unit off the auction site
smaller ones aren't that expensive
u mike
Member
Originally Posted by tank a holic
http:///forum/post/3189708
I highly recommend getting a ro/di unit off the auction site
smaller ones aren't that expensive
it is on my list.
working on getting some plumbing in the basement.
also working on a better filter system.
http:///forum/post/3189708
I highly recommend getting a ro/di unit off the auction site
smaller ones aren't that expensive
it is on my list.
working on getting some plumbing in the basement.
also working on a better filter system.