Coral Beauty With Ick?

i JUST PURCHASED A BEAUTIFUL CORAL BEAUTY THAT WAS IN MY LFS FOR ABOUT 2 WEEKS. iT SEEMED FINE IN THERE TANK WITH NO WHITE SPOTS AND EAT WELL. i PUT IT IN MY TANK 3 DAYS AGO AND SEEN THE SPOTS THIS MORNING. I HAVE 2 FALSE PERRCS IN THE TANK AS WELL THAT DON'T SEEM TO BE AFFECTED. I HAVE LIVE ROCK AND WANT TO ADD SOFT CORALS IN THE FUTURE. MY TANK IS FAIRLY NEW. I CHECKED MY PERIMETERS THIS MORNING AND MY NITRATES WERE WAY OUT AT 80. WHAT CAN I DO AND WHATS THE BEST WAY TO DO IT. MY TANK IS ONLY A 30 GAL AND I DON'T HAVE A QT YET. PLEASE HELP I DON'T WANT TO LOOSE MY FISH. P.S. i AM ALSO VERY NEW TO SALT WATER SO YOU MAY HAVE TO EXPLAIN YOUR PROCEEDURES.
THANKS
HERBY
 

al mc

Active Member
Herbie....Read the archived threads by Beth at the top of this forum for a complete answer to your Ich treatment questions. Since you do not have an established QT tank it
would probably be best to go with hyposalinity on the display tank as long as you have no corals or other invertebrates.
P.S. Usually when you write messages on the internet, when you capatilize all letters in a word it implies that you are shouting.
 

granny

Member
Herbie, I Tend To Type In Caps As Well So I Can See What I Am Typing!
When You Check That Thread, You Will See Several Options, And A Few Heated Discussions Concerning Ich Treatment.
You Have Two Problems, Extremely High Nitrates, Which Your Existing Fish Slowly Have Become Used To (remember The Frog In The Pan Tale) But Your New Fish Was Extremely Stressed By This Condition. The Ich Protozoan Seems To Exist In All Tanks Unless They Maintain A Low Copper Level Or Utilize Uv Continuously. Weakened Or Stressed Fish Succumb To The Protozan As They Cannot Fend It Off Via A Healthy Slime Coat.
So You Need To Reduce Your Nitrates Through Large Water Changes. Now This Could Be Beneficial If You Utilize Hyposalinity To Treat Your Ich As You Reduce The Salinity Through Gradual Water Changes.
I Have A Feeling You Have Been Feeding Too Frequently And Maybe Are Not Up To Snuff On The Importance Of Water Changes.
There Is Another Option Which Is Somewhat Controversial, But I Can Assure You It Is Effective If Done Properly.
The Use Of Chem Marin Stop Ich Works. It Positively Works And I Have Verified Repeated Proof Of It Via My Lfs Who Is Also A Friend And A Marine Biologist As Well As Nanoscientist, So Please Do Not Argue With Me About This Product. You Use 1 Tsp Of Chem Marin For Each 10 Gallons Of Tank Volume Twice A Day. You Must Monitor Your Ph And Follow Up With A Buffer. I Suggest Sea Chem Marine Buffer Which Maintains 8.3 In Your Tank.
You Remove Carbon Or Any Poly Filters Etc From Your Tank Before Adding.
This Treatment Is Done Twice A Day For 5 Days. You May Hve To Go Through Two Sequences Of Treatment, Especially Since You Need To Reduce Your Nitrates Dramatically At This Time As Well.
Another Option Is A Freshwater Dip, Which Just Might Work For You. You Still Need To Get Those Nitrates Down No Matter What You Do.
To Dip, You Simply Prepare Fresh Water, No Salt, To The Same Temp And Ph As Your Saltwater Tank. Catch Your Fish And Dip Him For 2-3 Seconds In This Water Then Place Him Back In The Sw Tank.
This Is Also Stressful To Your Fish And I Have Never Used It Though Many People Do And Swear By The Process. My Personal Reccomendation Is At Least A 50% Water Change, Followed By The Chem Marin Treatment And Soak All Your Food In Supergarlic. This Is A Great Pest Preventative And Increases Your Fish's Appetitie
Good Luck And Dont Panic
 
Sorry not shouting cap locks where on. I have inverts and live rock. Will I have time to cycle a 10 gal hospital tank before my fish get too bad? I have a hang on back filter that has been on my display tank from the beginning and I can put a peace of live rock in to help cycle. I'm worried about time!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Would the copper treatment be better? or the hyposalt since nothing is cycled yet. How much water from my display without messing it up? SO many questions So little knowledge

Thank you for the reply!
Herby
 

granny

Member
Herbie, if you use copper in a separate tank, you dont want to use live rock that will ever go back into your main tank again as copper stays forever! Do not use itin your main tank unless you intend to never have any inverts or corals etc.
If you have a good LFS, they may have the product that contains live active bacteria wich speeds up the cycling process, but truthfully, trying to set up a quarantine tank after you have disease is kinda tough, sorta like shutting the barn door afer the horse has gotten out.
if you choose to hypo your tank, do a search at the top and the process is documented specifically step by step.
but again my personal reccommendation at this point is the chem marin stop ich treatment, water changes and garlic additive to food.
 
I'm sorry I didn't put this info when I first started this thead.
Perimeters ( they were taken 2 days ago)
Nitrites 0
Nitrates 20
PH 8.3
ALK normal
This morning!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Trites .05
Trates 80
everything else the same
In 30 gal tank
2 false purcs
1 coral beauty
11 blue leg hermits
1 porciline crag
2 pepermint shrimp
2
turbo crabs
1 long spin urchi
Herby
 

sepulatian

Moderator
Put the rocks and inverts into a rubber maid tub with a heater and a power head. Use display water. Then hypo the display. You do not have to worry about cycling the tub.
 

granny

Member
NO, it will not. It works by enhancing the slime coat on your fish so that the ich parasite is shed from the fish. It then attaches to a non live host and is swept from your tank via the watercirculation and skimmer. the only concern is that it can cause a drop in PH, especially in a fairly new tank, so you need to check your PH immediately after adding teh Chem Marin solution. I have seen it used effectively in reef tanks with hordes of stony corals, snails, urchins, shrimp etc. with abosolutely no ill effects.
It is actually a pepper irritant and must be kept refrigerated once its opened.
If you are going to use it, I believe you will have good luck with it if you simply follow the directions and also feed garlic at the same time. This works if there are any internal parasites.
Did you add the water from your fish bag to your tank when you acclimated your new fish by any chance? In a smaller tank, you can see larger fluctuations when something changes.
Do that water change now, then go buy yourself some Chem Marin and garlic.
.
 

al mc

Active Member
Herbie...I do not mean to confuse you. Please read Beth's threads about Ich and the treatmnet of this parasitic disease. When speaking of Ich there are treatments that help
with the symptoms and may save your fish ( Chem Marine, Kick Ich, etc.) and there are treatments that eliminate the Ich. I will not argue with Granny that the Chem Marine/garlic
treatment may help your situation in the short term. If however, you wish to have an Ich free tank in the future you will need to either use a copper based product or hyposalinity to eliminate Ich from your system, then follow proper QT protocols to keep from reintroducing the problem when you try to add new animals/rock to your Ich free display tank.
This is a much debated topic in these forums so you may find an avalanche of posts in the near future. Good luck in whatever decision you make. And do not be a stanger to this forum. There is a lot of info in the archived files in each section and lots of people who have been through what you are experiencing now.
 
Yes, some of the water from the bag was put into my tank but it eas a min. amount. I like to acclimate some things in the bag they came in for conv. Am I really messing up? or is this OK. For everyone who has replied so far THANK YOU ! I am a master wood turner and also help people on another forum when they need help. Now I know how they feel when people reply. I'm just trying to find out what my options are and have learned a valuable lesson about a QT.
 

al mc

Active Member
Originally Posted by Al Mc
http:///forum/post/2465260
Herbie...I do not mean to confuse you. Please read Beth's threads about Ich and the treatmnet of this parasitic disease. When speaking of Ich there are treatments that help
with the symptoms and may save your fish ( Chem Marine, Kick Ich, etc.) and there are treatments that eliminate the Ich. I will not argue with Granny that the Chem Marine/garlic
treatment may help your situation in the short term. If however, you wish to have an Ich free tank in the future you will need to either use a copper based product or hyposalinity to eliminate Ich from your system, then follow proper QT protocols to keep from reintroducing the problem when you try to add new animals/rock to your Ich free display tank.
This is a much debated topic in these forums so you may find an avalanche of posts in the near future. Good luck in whatever decision you make. And do not be a stanger to this forum. There is a lot of info in the archived files in each section and lots of people who have been through what you are experiencing now.

bump
 
Thanks AL MAC!! I have read several things about this including what Beth wrote. What I will probably do is use the Marin Chem until I can get a hospital tank established. Then KILL the Perisite. Good idea or not? This should reduce the stress on the live stock.
 
Also one other question. I have dried sea weed and some frozen brine shrimp and garlic cloves. If I where to blend these together would that be a good food mix? and how much garlic should I put in?
 

al mc

Active Member
I have not personally used the Chem Marine product so I can't give first hand advice on it. I have used Kick Ich. It is basically an antiprotozoal/antibiotic medicine known as metronidazole. My LFS suggested it two years ago when I had an Ich outbreak and had not researched the various treatments. It did not 'appear' to harm anything. The 'white spots' went away on my fish...
. Then about 3-4 weeks later they came back
.
I would consider this as a 'stop gap' measure until you can follow a proper treatment to eliminate the Ich, as you suggested.
Garlic..unproven results. Many, including myself, use it. When I do I crush the garlic and just add the fresh jiuce to food and/or algae sheets. The bottled formulations of garlic have most likely lost the 'allicin' which is considered the active ingredient in garlic that dissipates quiclky once the cloves have been crushed.
 

granny

Member
i AM BACK AFTER A SHORT BREAK! AL-MAC, THANKS FOR NOT ARGUEING WITH ME!
YOUR IDEA OF USING THE CHEM MARIN AS A STOP GAP UNTIL YOU ESTABLISH A QUARANTINE TANK IS A GOOD ONE. COPPER IS VERY EFFECTIVE AND HAS BEEN AROUND FOR A LONG TIME, BUT YOU DO NOT WANT IT IN YOUR MAIN TANK.
GARLIC-SMELLY AND MESSY. YOU CAN SUPERBLEND A CLOVE IN WITH YOUR OTHER FOOD IF YOU MAKE YOUR OWN PRODUCT IN FAIRLY LARGE QUANTITIES, BUT CRUSHING A GARLIC CLOVE AND SQUEEZING SOMEOF THE JUICE EVERYTIME YOU FEED IS A LOT OF WORK!. I DO USE THE BOTTLED PRODUCT THOUGH, SO THAT i CAN CONTROL HOW MUCH IS PUT INTO THE FOOD AND IT DOESNT SEEM TO BE MINIMIZED IN EFFECT.
 

1journeyman

Active Member

Originally Posted by Granny
http:///forum/post/2465158
...... The Ich Protozoan Seems To Exist In All Tanks Unless They Maintain A Low Copper Level Or Utilize Uv Continuously. Weakened Or Stressed Fish Succumb To The Protozan As They Cannot Fend It Off Via A Healthy Slime Coat.
.....
I agree you need to get your Nitrates down. That, unfortunately, is about all I agree with in the above post.
Ich is a parasite with a known and well studied life cycle. It is NOT present in any tank until it is introduced
. It is not airborn like bacteria, nor is it spontaniously generated when we set up our tanks. The aquarist MUST introduce it. A properly set up SW aquarium with proper QT procedures will NEVER see ich in it
. That is 100% completely and scientifically proven.
Hypo salinity will kill your live rock. Do not do hypo in a tank with live rock or any other invert
.
You can argue that chemicals like "Stop Parasites" by Chem Marine works, but the science is not on your side. A quick trip to the official website reveals many issues:
"it's a good idea to use Erythromycin along with Stop Parasites for best results"That is a great idea, IF
you want to completely obliterate the helpful bacteria in your tank and want to start your tank re-cycling.... A broad spectrum anti-biodic cannot tell the difference between good and bad bacteria.
"Put 10 drops per gallon of water twice daily into the tank for 5 days.." Ich has a life cycle of around 28 days (somewhat dependent on temp). It has multiple stages. Treating a tank for 5 days does nothing excpet conveniently coinscide with the time it takes for Ich in the hosting phase to naturally drop off...
"Add 5 drops of Stop Parasites to the tank water twice daily for 4-5 days after new fish are introduced to prevent stress induced parasites in the new fish as well as the old ones..
." Surprisingly, the maker of an expensive medication does not promote QT and instead subscribes to the mistaken belief that parasites are somehow magically summoned when a fish is stressed.
""..remember as long as the fish are in copper Parasites will not be visible and a untrained eye may purchase the specimen not knowing the problem that may lay ahead
" I don't even understand this quote.. Apparently Copper allows parasites to cloak.

"...If these signs are present it most likely has or eventually will soon encounter a Bacteria infection that will cause a major outbreak of Ich which will not only jeopardize the fish infected but all the fish in your show tank
" Absolutely, completely false. Ich, as we have discussed, is a parasite. It's presence and attacks are in no way related to bacteria.
This guy is selling his products, pure and simple. His limited (and faulty) grasp of Ich should warn off anyone contemplating dumping his snake oil into your tank.
Now, I respect your Marine Biologist friend. That said, a well respected expert in our hobby, Bob Fenner says "There is no such thing as a "reef safe" AND effective parasitic medication..." (taken from his website). He also says, when discussing this product in particular "Do know of other credible users that assert success using both of these... however, don't consider them completely safe or effective myself. Bob Fenner" He also says "there are NO reef safe anti-Cryptocaryon cures... NONE... What leads people to believe there could be? What would select this protozoan and yet leave others be? Arggggh" and when discussing medications in general for Ich says "Which we know don't work... Do wish we could expose the crooks (yes, that's what these charlatans are) that hawk the hot sauce, sugar and garlic "remedies" as "ich et al. cure-alls... You, I know who these folks, manufacturers, products are... They're likely single-handedly responsible for the loss of more hobbyists (let alone livestock mortality) than any other cause"... Fenner promotes the use of Copper for Ich treatment (IN A QT TANK ONLY). Copper, and Hypo, are the only two proven treatments for Ich. They must be done in a QT tank. Your display tank MUST run fishless to allow Ich to run it's course, and die out when it cannot find a host.
FW dips might rid your fish of some parasites, but does absolutely nothing for the parasites, in various life stages, in your tank. If you dip a fish then place it back into a parasite infected tank all you've done is stress the fish...
Garlic does seem to promote appetite (I use it myself for this reason alone), but only fresh garlic shows any signs of actually maybe boosting a fish's immune system. Again, garlic will not cure a tank of ich. (If your tank is overun with vampires then maybe this is a proper treatment
)
 

1journeyman

Active Member
Originally Posted by firefightered
http:///forum/post/2465261
Yes, some of the water from the bag was put into my tank but it eas a min. amount. I like to acclimate some things in the bag they came in for conv. Am I really messing up? or is this OK. For everyone who has replied so far THANK YOU ! I am a master wood turner and also help people on another forum when they need help. Now I know how they feel when people reply. I'm just trying to find out what my options are and have learned a valuable lesson about a QT.
It can be a mistake for 2 reasons.
1. Ich and other diseases can be introduced with bad water from your LFS.
2. Some LFS treat tanks with copper, so you could be pouring copper into your tank.
 
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