Cyano Problem Need Some Help Please Read!!

[tdog7879]

Thanks for reading this thread : I have a little problem with cyano (red slime) and im trying to figure out why it keeps on coming back. My tank seems to get it in small little patches only on the SB which is a DSB. About 3 weeks ago i had the same problem, so i went and got CHEMICLEAN and it clean it all up! But now it is back. So what am i doing wrong? My tank is a 80 gal tall with a 5 inch DSB.ONly 2 inches of the DSB is live sand rest is playsand. I have about 65-70lbs of live rock. MY FISH: yellow tang, blue jaw, 2 cinamin clowns , green chromis,bar goby, yellow face goby. I have a cleaner and a peperment shrimp and feather dusters. I also have a mix of zoas,mushrooms and a frogspawn.CUC: 25-30 snails and hermets.
MY EQUIP: 700 GPH WET/DRY, AQUA CLEAR HOB, PRIZM PRO SKIMMER(300 GPH) MAXI JET 1200 GPH AND A KORALLIA # 2.
WATER: PH 8.3 NITRITE 0 AMMONIA 0 NITRATE 0 PHOSPHATES 0 CALCIUM 410 ALK. 2.9 MEG SPECIFIC GRAVITY 36
LIGHT: 216 WATTS T-5 they sit right on top of the tank which leave about 3 inches of open tank i also have a desk fan that blows on light to keep the temp. at 80degrees. LIGHT CYCLE is on from 8am - 5pm. There is a window in the room so the tank gets a little bit of light after lights go out.
Couple more things?(sorry)
The korlia is about 5 inches from SB where cyano is??
Should i change the light cycle because the light(sunset) from window enters is where cyano is???? OR is the DSB a problem? Also in the morning it is almost non visble.?SORRY FOR LONG THREAD JUST WANTED TO GIVE ALOT OF DETAILS!!! THANKS AGAIN T-DOG

 

[mr_x]

first, the red slime remover just removes the symptom..which is the visible cyanobacteria. it will definitely come back if you do not address the real problem, which is excess nutrients.
do waterchanges with a good water source(r.o.d.i.) and vacuum the cyano up with each change.

 

[tdog7879]

Originally Posted by Mr_X
http:///forum/post/2748627
first, the red slime remover just removes the symptom..which is the visible cyanobacteria. it will definitely come back if you do not address the real problem, which is excess nutrients.
do waterchanges with a good water source(r.o.d.i.) and vacuum the cyano up with each change.
I use ro/di water with water changes and topoffs. So where does the excees nutrients come from? What about the sun from the window coming in after lights? And why is it only in small patches? I have a lot of flow there?

 

[tdog7879]

Originally Posted by Mr_X
http:///forum/post/2748627
first, the red slime remover just removes the symptom..which is the visible cyanobacteria. it will definitely come back if you do not address the real problem, which is excess nutrients.
do waterchanges with a good water source(r.o.d.i.) and vacuum the cyano up with each change.
Also when i try to vacuum it up it tends to clump up and not syphon?? wierd!

 

[mr_x]

the source of the excess nutrients is something you have to figure out. i don't believe that sunlight on a tank will produce excessive algae, while in the ocean, all there is, is sunlight. i think if your water is pristine, algae will have nothing to live on.
if you feel it's the sunlight, pull the shade down for a week and see what happens.

 

[osborne]

Im having a major problem in my 90 also. Im tring remover and no good. It seems to to be tring to take over, its on my rocks and I get it sucked of to good. Any suggestions? I do have bout 8 big fish and fuss at my wife for feeding twice a day.

 

[acroaddict]

try chemi pure. i had a cyano problem in my tank when i feed my fish too much. now even if i feed my fish too much i never see cyano n e more.

 

[acroaddict]

also u should try n save a lil more money n buy yourself a better protein skimmer. i remember the day i spent my hard earned money on the prizm. didnt do a good job until i bought my asm mini g. love it.

 

[tdog7879]

Originally Posted by Mr_X
http:///forum/post/2748658
the source of the excess nutrients is something you have to figure out. i don't believe that sunlight on a tank will produce excessive algae, while in the ocean, all there is, is sunlight. i think if your water is pristine, algae will have nothing to live on.
if you feel it's the sunlight, pull the shade down for a week and see what happens.
What would lead to excess nutrients? I feed every other day and feed corals once a week and add a capful of DT 1-2 a week. The food i feed the fish is soak in vitiamins? The only reason why i think it is coming from the sunlight from the window is that the cyano is only on the side where the sunlight come in. Would you change your light cycle? If so would a 2 hour change be to much?

 

[tdog7879]

Originally Posted by Mr_X
http:///forum/post/2748658
the source of the excess nutrients is something you have to figure out. i don't believe that sunlight on a tank will produce excessive algae, while in the ocean, all there is, is sunlight. i think if your water is pristine, algae will have nothing to live on.
if you feel it's the sunlight, pull the shade down for a week and see what happens.
Even if your tank water is pristine. Do you get algae on you glass or a little here or there on the rocks or is that a sign that i do have some phosphates problems.
Side note: all of my test are done with API TEST KITS except for ALK, Ca,Ph are done with REDSEA TEST KIT.

 

[tdog7879]

I just change the light cycle from 9am-6pm (sunset is closer to 6pm) Should i cut back on the time? is 9 hrs to much? Or am i wasting time with the whole light thing? Should i cut back on feeding? Should i get more of a CUC to break up the cyano?

 

[tdog7879]

anybody else have any ideas?

 

[mr_x]

my tank water isn't pristine. i have cyano as well, ever since the 14 hour power outtage. i feed excessively, and with my massive water changes, it is going away slowly. it's an acceptable progression.
as i said, if you feel it's the sunlight, block the sunlight for a week and see if it cures it.
i think it might be the dt's. i used to have problems way back, when i used to use that stuff. i haven't used it in over a year and my corals have not skipped a beat, and i didn't have any algae, or cyano issues until the mass die-off from the power outtage.

 

[jerryatrick]

Originally Posted by Mr_X
http:///forum/post/2748762
my tank water isn't pristine. i have cyano as well, ever since the 14 hour power outtage. i feed excessively, and with my massive water changes, it is going away slowly. it's an acceptable progression.
as i said, if you feel it's the sunlight, block the sunlight for a week and see if it cures it.
i think it might be the dt's. i used to have problems way back, when i used to use that stuff. i haven't used it in over a year and my corals have not skipped a beat, and i didn't have any algae, or cyano issues until the mass die-off from the power outtage.
I would blame it on DTs if he was using it more. He is way below the recommonded amount of use. I agree that DTs can go without being used.

 

[tdog7879]

Originally Posted by JerryAtrick
http:///forum/post/2748773
I would blame it on DTs if he was using it more. He is way below the recommonded amount of use. I agree that DTs can go without being used.
So should i not use the DT? what else should i use to feed corals? Also just look at my tank with a flashlight and cyano seem to be less that woould lead me to believe that it has something to do with the lights. Like i said it seems to be more active when light are on and receeds when lights are off

 

[jerryatrick]

Originally Posted by tdog7879
http:///forum/post/2748789
So should i not use the DT? what else should i use to feed corals? Also just look at my tank with a flashlight and cyano seem to be less that woould lead me to believe that it has something to do with the lights. Like i said it seems to be more active when light are on and receeds when lights are off
Personally I will use DTs because I have a few filter feeders. Phytoplankton is good for coco worms and I don't like feeding my sun corals meaty foods every day because it is a strain on the bio load. I have only had an issue with cyano once. I have read that it is normal to see 4-5 months into the tanks existence. Your feeding and lighting schedule seems normal.

 

[tdog7879]

Originally Posted by JerryAtrick
http:///forum/post/2748798
Personally I will use DTs because I have a few filter feeders. Phytoplankton is good for coco worms and I don't like feeding my sun corals meaty foods every day because it is a strain on the bio load. I have only had an issue with cyano once. I have read that it is normal to see 4-5 months into the tanks existence. Your feeding and lighting schedule seems normal.
Well i am into my 7 month but only 2months with new light fixture.

 

[jerryatrick]

Originally Posted by tdog7879
http:///forum/post/2748802
Well i am into my 7 month but only 2months with new light fixture.
I did not change my lighting schedule or my feeding schedule and the cyano disappeared after a couple of weeks. If it does not go away then you have some investigating to do.

 

[tdog7879]

Originally Posted by Mr_X
http:///forum/post/2748762
my tank water isn't pristine. i have cyano as well, ever since the 14 hour power outtage. i feed excessively, and with my massive water changes, it is going away slowly. it's an acceptable progression.
as i said, if you feel it's the sunlight, block the sunlight for a week and see if it cures it.
i think it might be the dt's. i used to have problems way back, when i used to use that stuff. i haven't used it in over a year and my corals have not skipped a beat, and i didn't have any algae, or cyano issues until the mass die-off from the power outtage.
So what should i feed my zoas, mushrooms and frogspawn? My LFS said DT's ant he light should be good. Once a week i mix some meaty food with dt and use a turkey baster to feed?

 

[jerryatrick]

Originally Posted by tdog7879
http:///forum/post/2748812
So what should i feed my zoas, mushrooms and frogspawn? My LFS said DT's ant he light should be good. Once a week i mix some meaty food with dt and use a turkey baster to feed?
I am not certain but I don't think DTs is the problem but I am not 100% sure. I think you would be fine with just spot feeding the frogspawn with some meaty foods. Your LFS is correct that DTs is good for the zoas and mushrooms. Some believe that their corals don't look the same without DTs while others don't see any benefit.