cyano?

skirrby

skirrby

Active Member
ok guess im confused. what all causes this? for the most part, what i hear the most is lack of flow, as in people always say to kick up the flow in areas affected by it and alot of time it goes away. but ive noticed its starting to form in small areas of my tank.. but only in what seems to be the highest flow areas of the tank. ive got a great amount of flow, cause im going with mostly sps this time around. all together ive got about 1110 gph of flow in my 55 gallon. which is about a 20x turnover rate. and im going to be adding a maxi jet 600 with maxi jet mod in a month or so. so all in all, i really dont think this is a flow problem.
ive tested phosphates, and they are at 0. and always have been everytime ive tested. all other levels are good too. i do need to get new halide bulbs, but would those really be the cause? ive never really had cyano problems to bad. so anyone with more experience in this able to help out with some advice? the tank has been running for about ehh 2 months now, just part of the whole new tank deal we all go through?
 
murph145

murph145

Active Member
hey there when i transffered over my 100 to my new 180 i had to get new live sand.... well it started to get cayno pretty bad and it lasted for about 2 weeks and i think the combo of a diamond goby and the tank breaking in its gone pretty much 95% away still a lil here and there but not much at all...
my tank tested perfect on water too but i think new tank is main thing....
the ways i think u can cure it is up the flow get a sand sifter and have some good macro algae in the sump my macros been taking off lately growing an inch a day with the caulerpa and the chaeto is goring tons too
as long as u keep up on ur maintenance u should be fine stick it out
 
skirrby

skirrby

Active Member
i feed a small bit of food once a day. or a cube of mysis a day thats soaked in zoe, i have 5 fish in the tank, so its really not to much food, and its almost never goes uneaten. and yes i use ro/di water.. my tds level after going through is at 0.
 
pallan

pallan

Member
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/73002/how-to-rid-your-tank-of-red-slime
Check out this thread has alot of info and ways to beat cyno.

BTW testing for posphates could depend on the brand or type of kit you use. i use hagen and always test 0
a LFS person here has a very expensive piece of equipment for his private shop to test water and even though my phosphate test read 0 his test came up with .08 phosphates on my water. to little for the test kit to catch but still some there.
 
rusting

rusting

Member
You may have some dead zone flow areas, try adding some small powerheads, and cut back on feeding. Its getting food from some where. 20% water change once a week will also help.
 
crox

crox

Active Member
I am having a big problem with cyano for the last 2 months. I can't take anymore. I never tested my phosphates. Does anybody knows if those red algae pads work? I am very desperate!!
 
rusting

rusting

Member
Originally Posted by Crox
I am having a big problem with cyano for the last 2 months. I can't take anymore. I never tested my phosphates. Does anybody knows if those red algae pads work? I am very desperate!!


This is a post I just did to Drew 2005 I hope it helpsyou.
Cyno
Blowing it will just spread it around. You can try to vacume it, but it will most likely return. Change your water flow rate, you may have areas that have little, or no flow. Cut back on feeding. Do 20% water changes, weekly, with RO/DI water, never tap water, find out why you have cyno.
Edit/Delete Message
 
crox

crox

Active Member
Well I looked at the other thread that Pallan sent and I am going to try a few different things first. This weekend when I do a water change I will clean the sump (bioballs, change the filters and the skimmer).
 
crox

crox

Active Member
Also I realized that the problem became worst when I started running carbon in my Fluval. Should I get rid of the carbon? The flow in the tank is pretty good so I don't think that is the problem.
 
pallan

pallan

Member
as to the carbon some people run it 24/7 some run it occasionally you have to find out what is best for you.
Now whatever carbon you do run may be leaching phosphates back into your system. ive heard black diamond is good brand and it is what i use. i have heard that some other brands made a certain way (unsure what way) can be the cause of some issues.
 
rusting

rusting

Member
Carbon will do nothing for cyno, but will become a nitrate trap, and leach it back into your system. Water changes, lest food RO/DI water more water flow is the way to go.
 
crox

crox

Active Member
Like I said previously I'll do a massive clean up of my sump and I either remove/change the carbon.
 
misfit

misfit

Active Member
Originally Posted by Crox
Like I said previously I'll do a massive clean up of my sump and I either remove/change the carbon.
DO NOT clean all bioballs and filter pads at same time ,you will get rid of too much good and needed bacteria.Do it little by little with a little time inbetween.
 
saltfan

saltfan

Active Member
Originally Posted by rusting
Carbon will do nothing for cyno, but will become a nitrate trap, and leach it back into your system. Water changes, lest food RO/DI water more water flow is the way to go.
What?? You got one thing right only. It will not touch the cyano. Trate trap. What? leach the system? What? Sure if you leave it in your tank for a year.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top