Day 23, API Test #13

[dutchswan]

Day 23 Notes:
Algae has run rampant over my rock (see picture below). I cleaned the inside of the glass, though it looked like it would have been 2x as bad if it were not for my very hungry turbo snails. Water tests (found at http://www.jonvanwyk.com/aquarium) are definitely moving in the right direction.
I didn't make it to the store in time today to get some more epoxy and will have to get it tomorrow. When I cleaned the inside of the glass today, all of the rock still felt very solid, but I still want to be sure. This rock is tall and interestingly stacked and I want to keep it that way! It would be a shame for the top to roll off break the glass and find all of my animals dried on the floor!
I was thinking about waiting for 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and < 20 nitrate to come back for a solid week before adding my next fish. Flower says I should wait longer, but I will not tell you how long she said. I think I will instead take a poll on this today
Today's Results: @ 81 Degrees F & 1.023 Gravity (Hydrometer)
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0.50
Nitrate: 40
pH: 8.4
Yesterday's Results
Ammonia: 0.25
Nitrite: 1.0
Nitrate: 40
pH: 8.4

My wife says my rock looks like the clouds and ash from a nuclear explosion lol.

 

[posiden]

Originally Posted by dutchswan
http:///forum/post/3287846
Flower says I should wait longer, but I will not tell you how long he said.

If I'm not mistaken Flower is female. A educated one too.
Too answer your question............IMO I say 4 weeks or more. That just also happens to be the same time frame for a proper QT of a new arival. Again, JMO.

 

[meowzer]

Originally Posted by Posiden
http:///forum/post/3287902
If I'm not mistaken Flower is female. A educated one too.
YES SHE IS
Too answer your question............IMO I say 4 weeks or more. That just also happens to be the same time frame for a proper QT of a new arival. Again, JMO.
I would say at least 2 weeks after all tests are at 0...then add some cuc...test...wait one -2 weeks....etc.....etc

 

[kclester]

lol looking at your rock strcture is so funny to me i cant beleive you where able to get it steady like that.......i should hire you to come and build me a mega strcture also

 

[dutchswan]

Originally Posted by kclester
http:///forum/post/3287904
lol looking at your rock strcture is so funny to me i cant beleive you where able to get it steady like that.......i should hire you to come and build me a mega strcture also
It was a little frustrating. I had all of that rock in and out of my tank like three times before I found a configuration that worked.

 

[dutchswan]

Originally Posted by Posiden
http:///forum/post/3287902
If I'm not mistaken Flower is female. A educated one too.
I knew that...I am not sure why I referred to her in the masculine. I am not saying that the answer SHE gave me was incorrect; I was just curious as to how it compared to everyone else's opinion as well.

 

[flower]

That algae will go away on its own, it is the first bloom and it always happens. One morning you will look and all the rock will be nice and clear.
Also, since you are going for a reef...you need to use a QT (quarantine tank) most medicines or hypo can’t be done on corals and inverts, so new fish should always go into a QT first before you add it to the main tank.

 

[slice]

Originally Posted by Flower
http:///forum/post/3287937

That algae will go away on its own, it is the first bloom and it always happens. One morning you will look and all the rock will be nice and clear.
Also, since you are going for a reef...you need to use a QT (quarantine tank) most medicines or hypo can’t be done on corals and inverts, so new fish should always go into a QT first before you add it to the main tank.

Which is an automatic vote for 4+ weeks more before fish go into the DT...

 

[dutchswan]

Originally Posted by Flower
http:///forum/post/3287937

That algae will go away on its own, it is the first bloom and it always happens. One morning you will look and all the rock will be nice and clear.
Also, since you are going for a reef...you need to use a QT (quarantine tank) most medicines or hypo can’t be done on corals and inverts, so new fish should always go into a QT first before you add it to the main tank.
Okay FINE. ;-P I will wait 28 Days before adding anything else...especially since I added 2 turbo snails and a peppermint shrimp a couple fo days ago.
How long must they spend in the QT? Does the QT need to have filtration too, or can I just include it as a part of my weekly water changes? For instance:
My plan is to change out 5 Gallons (10% of DT) every Saturday. Can I just take 5 gallons from DT and put it into QT every Saturday? This means the QT would get a 50% water change once a week from the DT.
Also, if all fish are being added before any corals or anemones, is QT really necessary? If I cannot add these corals for many months, then would I not have already had the opportunity to identy and treat (with medicine) these fish illnesses before any corals have been introduced?

 

[slice]

Originally Posted by dutchswan
http:///forum/post/3287943
Okay FINE. ;-P I will wait 28 Days before adding anything else...especially since I added 2 turbo snails and a peppermint shrimp a couple fo days ago.
How long must they spend in the QT? Does the QT need to have filtration too, or can I just include it as a part of my weekly water changes? For instance:
My plan is to change out 5 Gallons (10% of DT) every Saturday. Can I just take 5 gallons from DT and put it into QT every Saturday? This means the QT would get a 50% water change once a week from the DT.
Also, if all fish are being added before any corals or anemones, is QT really necessary? If I cannot add these corals for many months, then would I not have already had the opportunity to identy and treat (with medicine) these fish illnesses before any corals have been introduced?
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/vb/s...water-Aquarium
Posts #5, #6 (Items 14, 15)

 

[btldreef]

Originally Posted by meowzer
http:///forum/post/3287903
I would say at least 2 weeks after all tests are at 0...then add some cuc...test...wait one -2 weeks....etc.....etc
+1, but I would QT the fish before they go in the main tank, which basically means that your DT will remain fishless for at least 6 more weeks.
Originally Posted by kclester
http:///forum/post/3287904
lol looking at your rock strcture is so funny to me i cant beleive you where able to get it steady like that.......i should hire you to come and build me a mega strcture also
He put epoxy on the rocks.
Originally Posted by Flower
http:///forum/post/3287937

That algae will go away on its own, it is the first bloom and it always happens. One morning you will look and all the rock will be nice and clear.
Also, since you are going for a reef...you need to use a QT (quarantine tank) most medicines or hypo can’t be done on corals and inverts, so new fish should always go into a QT first before you add it to the main tank.
+1 - in my opinion, a QT is not up for debate, just get one. And yes, they need filtration, a weekly water change is not filtration. They need flow as well.

 

[posiden]

Originally Posted by dutchswan
http:///forum/post/3287933
I knew that...I am not sure why I referred to her in the masculine. I am not saying that the answer SHE gave me was incorrect; I was just curious as to how it compared to everyone else's opinion as well.

I wasn't scolding you, just clarifying.
Many different thoughts on QT tanks and there setup. This is just a quick one of mine.
The big benefits of a QT is that each fish can be treated IF they even need it individually and only treated for what they have. You also don't want to make other fish sick that aren't sick. Also, the benefits of a QT are such that there is no rock or sand, so more potent meds can be used and wont cause issues with the reef. For instance copper. Its great for ich but it will absorb into the rock and sand and will leach out small amounts over time. A reef will not tolerate copper at all. There are other ich treatments that use malachite green as a medicine. Again, corals wont like you very much if you happen to dose that into your tank. Since I have kinda gone on ich as an example, you also don't want to introduce that into your tank. No treatment will rid ich from a tank that has rock and sand due to the life cycle of the parasite. When substrate is infected with ich the only way IMO to rid the tank of it is to run fallow (fish less) for 6-8 weeks so the parasite will run its life cycle and die since there will be no host. There is also other stuff such as internal parasites, ect, ect, ect.
One other note on copper, DON'T use anything for coral that has been used in conjunction with copper. IMO its better to be safe then sorry. Its a mixed group that say, even the silicone alone in a tank is enough to do damage once copper has been introduced. So, if you want one QT setup, its best not to use it. Treat with hypo-salinity.
Filtration in a QT is very basic. I use a HOB filter in a 10 gallon tank. No media, again you don't need or want a place for things to hang out. Check the water often and do whatever water changes need to be made to keep levels in check. Your dealing with a possibly sick fish and it doesn't need any extra stress. Its already been through a lot being shipped half way around the world and what not. Your the final destination so it needs the very best conditions you can provide for it as soon as you get it home.