Do you trust your RO/DI too much?
- Thread starter cranberry
- Start date
t316
Active Member
My system is from the filter guys as well. In about two years, I have changed the filters maybe 3 times, including the DI resin. However, I have never changed the membrane in the horizontal tube...
I still have a reading of zero as long as I keep everything else changed, so I don't even know when to change the membrane. Never even opened that cannister up.
cranberry
Active Member
Chlorine and Chloramine will not be detected by your TDS meter and will not be removed by your DI resin.
So unless you change your carbon frequently in relation to the amount of chlorine/chloramines that is in your municipal water....or unless you test, you should not be sleeping snuggly at night.....
Muwahahahahaha!
My fish are dying... my water parameters are perfect.....
Go test for chloramines/chlorine in your RO/DI water.
So unless you change your carbon frequently in relation to the amount of chlorine/chloramines that is in your municipal water....or unless you test, you should not be sleeping snuggly at night.....
Muwahahahahaha!
My fish are dying... my water parameters are perfect.....
Go test for chloramines/chlorine in your RO/DI water.
t316
Active Member
Originally Posted by Cranberry
http:///forum/post/3206260
Chlorine and Chloramine will not be detected by your TDS meter and will not be removed by your DI resin.
So unless you change your carbon frequently in relation to the amount of chlorine/chloramines that is your municipal water....or unless you test, you should not be sleeping snuggly at night.....
Muwahahahahaha!
Well water, so no municipality dumping chemicals into my water.
http:///forum/post/3206260
Chlorine and Chloramine will not be detected by your TDS meter and will not be removed by your DI resin.
So unless you change your carbon frequently in relation to the amount of chlorine/chloramines that is your municipal water....or unless you test, you should not be sleeping snuggly at night.....
Muwahahahahaha!
Well water, so no municipality dumping chemicals into my water.
t316
Active Member
Originally Posted by Cranberry
http:///forum/post/3206369
Hence why I specified municipal......
But don't think you are free from chemicals.... lots of fertilizers/contaminets make it's way to you as well....but not the topic at hand.....
I know what you are saying, and agree.
For me though, I actually live on a lake, inside of a 1 mile protected buffer which goes all the way around the lake. All land inside this area that is not privately owned, is owned and controlled by the US Corps of Engineers. There are so many restrictions around here related to runoff (since the lake is the primary water source for many cities/towns around here) that I can't even pee off my deck without having a fine in the mail.
http:///forum/post/3206369
Hence why I specified municipal......
But don't think you are free from chemicals.... lots of fertilizers/contaminets make it's way to you as well....but not the topic at hand.....
I know what you are saying, and agree.
For me though, I actually live on a lake, inside of a 1 mile protected buffer which goes all the way around the lake. All land inside this area that is not privately owned, is owned and controlled by the US Corps of Engineers. There are so many restrictions around here related to runoff (since the lake is the primary water source for many cities/towns around here) that I can't even pee off my deck without having a fine in the mail.
cranberry
Active Member
It's chlorine on steroids.
Not all water is treated with such, but most are now-a-days. The problem is, even if it isn't used.... you have no idea when they will decide to add it. Chlorine can be blown off.... chloramines have to be "neutralized" and will remain no matter how old the water or how well it's be aerated.
Not all water is treated with such, but most are now-a-days. The problem is, even if it isn't used.... you have no idea when they will decide to add it. Chlorine can be blown off.... chloramines have to be "neutralized" and will remain no matter how old the water or how well it's be aerated.
bang guy
Moderator
Originally Posted by CAM78
http:///forum/post/3206347
what if you use chlorine remover after going through the R/O unit? Can't hurt right?
Most dechlorinators consume oxygen. A little isn't usually a problem but if you add a lot then the solution can be worse than the problem.
http:///forum/post/3206347
what if you use chlorine remover after going through the R/O unit? Can't hurt right?
Most dechlorinators consume oxygen. A little isn't usually a problem but if you add a lot then the solution can be worse than the problem.
garick
Member
its not hard to fix, most times just letting your RO water sit out overnight and aerate will remove the chlorine from it. I've tested this time and time again with fresh water systems and never had an issue of chlorine kills.
"chloramine is very easily and almost instantaneously removed by preparing a cup of tea or coffee, preparing food (e.g., making a soup with a chicken stock). Adding fruit to a water pitcher (e.g., slicing peeled orange into a 1-gal water pitcher) will neutralize chloramine within 30 minutes. If desired, chloramine and ammonia can be completely removed from the water by boiling; however, it will take 20 minutes of gentle boil to do that. Just a short boil of water to prepare tea or coffee removed about 30% of chloramine. Conversely, chlorine was not as consistently removed by boiling in SFPUC tests. If desired, both chlorine and chloramine can be removed for drinking water purposes by an activated carbon filter point of use device that can be installed on a kitchen faucet. If desired, both chlorine and chloramine can be removed for bathing purposes by dissolving Vitamin C in the bath water (1000 mg Vitamin C tablet will neutralize chloramine in an average bathtub)." From this informative little pdf that talks about chlorine and chloromine : http://www.sfwater.org/Files/FAQs/removal.pdf
"chloramine is very easily and almost instantaneously removed by preparing a cup of tea or coffee, preparing food (e.g., making a soup with a chicken stock). Adding fruit to a water pitcher (e.g., slicing peeled orange into a 1-gal water pitcher) will neutralize chloramine within 30 minutes. If desired, chloramine and ammonia can be completely removed from the water by boiling; however, it will take 20 minutes of gentle boil to do that. Just a short boil of water to prepare tea or coffee removed about 30% of chloramine. Conversely, chlorine was not as consistently removed by boiling in SFPUC tests. If desired, both chlorine and chloramine can be removed for drinking water purposes by an activated carbon filter point of use device that can be installed on a kitchen faucet. If desired, both chlorine and chloramine can be removed for bathing purposes by dissolving Vitamin C in the bath water (1000 mg Vitamin C tablet will neutralize chloramine in an average bathtub)." From this informative little pdf that talks about chlorine and chloromine : http://www.sfwater.org/Files/FAQs/removal.pdf
aquaknight
Active Member
Originally Posted by Garick
http:///forum/post/3206410
its not hard to fix, most times just letting your RO water sit out overnight and aerate will remove the chlorine from it. I've tested this time and time again with fresh water systems and never had an issue of chlorine kills.
That was my thought as well. Just letting the water sit for a bit should allow most of the chlorine to evaporate out. Though not sure if chloramine is the same. I guess the concern here is for top-off water, not so much water-change water, as they should have been aerated more then well enough. %%
Renee, is the kit a 25 strip/25 strip chlorine/chloramine test kit? I'm up for new filters so ordering from thefilterguys anyway, just curious about thier test kit...
http:///forum/post/3206410
its not hard to fix, most times just letting your RO water sit out overnight and aerate will remove the chlorine from it. I've tested this time and time again with fresh water systems and never had an issue of chlorine kills.
That was my thought as well. Just letting the water sit for a bit should allow most of the chlorine to evaporate out. Though not sure if chloramine is the same. I guess the concern here is for top-off water, not so much water-change water, as they should have been aerated more then well enough. %%
Renee, is the kit a 25 strip/25 strip chlorine/chloramine test kit? I'm up for new filters so ordering from thefilterguys anyway, just curious about thier test kit...
cranberry
Active Member
Originally Posted by AquaKnight
http:///forum/post/3206582
That was my thought as well. Just letting the water sit for a bit should allow most of the chlorine to evaporate out. Though not sure if chloramine is the same. I guess the concern here is for top-off water, not so much water-change water, as they should have been aerated more then well enough. %%
That was the stated problem.... you can't blow off chloramines like you can chlorine.
Originally Posted by Cranberry
http:///forum/post/3206386
Not all water is treated with such, but most are now-a-days. The problem is, even if it isn't used.... you have no idea when they will decide to add it. Chlorine can be blown off.... chloramines have to be "neutralized" and will remain no matter how old the water or how well it's be aerated.
http:///forum/post/3206582
That was my thought as well. Just letting the water sit for a bit should allow most of the chlorine to evaporate out. Though not sure if chloramine is the same. I guess the concern here is for top-off water, not so much water-change water, as they should have been aerated more then well enough. %%
That was the stated problem.... you can't blow off chloramines like you can chlorine.
Originally Posted by Cranberry
http:///forum/post/3206386
Not all water is treated with such, but most are now-a-days. The problem is, even if it isn't used.... you have no idea when they will decide to add it. Chlorine can be blown off.... chloramines have to be "neutralized" and will remain no matter how old the water or how well it's be aerated.
cranberry
Active Member
Originally Posted by Garick
http:///forum/post/3206590
I'd consider a Vat top off. tub that fills with a sealed lid and a valve that allows air out but not in so you could seal in an air hose which would pump air through the water and the valve would allow the air out but not in.
Doesn't help with chloramines.......
http:///forum/post/3206590
I'd consider a Vat top off. tub that fills with a sealed lid and a valve that allows air out but not in so you could seal in an air hose which would pump air through the water and the valve would allow the air out but not in.
Doesn't help with chloramines.......
cranberry
Active Member
Originally Posted by AquaKnight
http:///forum/post/3206582
Renee, is the kit a 25 strip/25 strip chlorine/chloramine test kit? I'm up for new filters so ordering from thefilterguys anyway, just curious about thier test kit...
It's a single test for chlorine/chloramines.... I've never used this one before so I don't know the number of tests.... the box doesn't say. I've always used the dip sticks. I'm going to run a few tests for accuracy, but if they are the same, the dip sticks are easier.
http:///forum/post/3206582
Renee, is the kit a 25 strip/25 strip chlorine/chloramine test kit? I'm up for new filters so ordering from thefilterguys anyway, just curious about thier test kit...
It's a single test for chlorine/chloramines.... I've never used this one before so I don't know the number of tests.... the box doesn't say. I've always used the dip sticks. I'm going to run a few tests for accuracy, but if they are the same, the dip sticks are easier.
garick
Member
Sodium thiosulfate can remove the chlorine but you are left with NH4 which is fairly strong ammonia but supposedly also AmQuel and Prime will handle both chlorine and chloramine.
Using catalytic activated carbon can break the chloramine apart leaving chlorine that it removes and leaving the nh4 which can be removed by adding zeolite which should absorb the ammonia though it has a low capacity so it takes alot to do quite a bit of water.
Using catalytic activated carbon can break the chloramine apart leaving chlorine that it removes and leaving the nh4 which can be removed by adding zeolite which should absorb the ammonia though it has a low capacity so it takes alot to do quite a bit of water.
cranberry
Active Member
Yes, there are products that can get rid of these things, but why would I want to add that when that's my entire reason for using an RO/DI in the first place?
The point of the thread is not "How to get rid of chlorine/chloramines", but if peeps are aware that without proper monitoring and/or sufficient carbon changing, their RO/DI could be leaching these harmful disinfectants.
The point of the thread is not "How to get rid of chlorine/chloramines", but if peeps are aware that without proper monitoring and/or sufficient carbon changing, their RO/DI could be leaching these harmful disinfectants.
