Exhaust Fan for tank
- Thread starter acrylic51
- Start date
cowfishrule
Active Member
are you exhausting the heat or the humidity?
spanky
Member
I have a newer 150 gallon tank with a pair of 260 watt Coralife "Lunar Lights". (They are 48" compacts.)
My 60" canopy just arrived yesterday. It's about 12" tall, with three large doors in the front and a back that is completely open to facilitate ventilation.
I have installed the 48" compacts along the extreme front and extreme rear of the canopy (to leave space in the middle for the lighting "horsepower" I'm about to order). The compacts have built-in cooling fans, so I inserted 2" spacer blocks to keep the tops of the lights 2" away from the top of the canopy.
Today I went down to the home improvement store and bought a pair of $6.99 "clip-on" desk fans (6" diameter fans with plastic blades). I took the stands apart, removed the clips, and installed the second bracket from each fan inside my canopy. Then I reatteched the fans - both on the same end of the canopy. They are pointed to push cool air the length of the canopy and out the back.
The fans are plugged into the same timer strip as the main lights, so the fans turn on when the lights come on. (The timer strip is rated at 1875 watts.) They little fans are quiet, effective, and cheap.
Now on to the famous auction site to add some wattage
My 60" canopy just arrived yesterday. It's about 12" tall, with three large doors in the front and a back that is completely open to facilitate ventilation.
I have installed the 48" compacts along the extreme front and extreme rear of the canopy (to leave space in the middle for the lighting "horsepower" I'm about to order). The compacts have built-in cooling fans, so I inserted 2" spacer blocks to keep the tops of the lights 2" away from the top of the canopy.
Today I went down to the home improvement store and bought a pair of $6.99 "clip-on" desk fans (6" diameter fans with plastic blades). I took the stands apart, removed the clips, and installed the second bracket from each fan inside my canopy. Then I reatteched the fans - both on the same end of the canopy. They are pointed to push cool air the length of the canopy and out the back.
The fans are plugged into the same timer strip as the main lights, so the fans turn on when the lights come on. (The timer strip is rated at 1875 watts.) They little fans are quiet, effective, and cheap.
Now on to the famous auction site to add some wattage
spanky
Member
Well, they've got built-in fans whirling away, and they're still very hot to the touch. I didn't want to speculate/gamble on how hot they might get if the built-in fans were rendered ineffective by mashing the top of the light (exhause vent) into the top of the canopy. I wanted to make sure that there was ample space for the fans to clear the very hot air.
Your experience may vary...
Your experience may vary...
acrylic51
Active Member
Your bulbs are going to be hot to touch regardless if fans are blowing or not.... Never used PC so don't know how much heat they really put off, but can't be worse than MH....I have 3 fans on my 4 250w MH right now and no problem, but tank is in family room downstairs, new setup with be in my new fishroom upstairs, so with that in mind... with the tank being 240 and sump/fuge almost 200 gallons will be lots of heat and humidity and the bathroom fans should take care of any heat and humidity buildup there might be....
In a smaller setup I think it would be hard to go this route unless it was built into a wall where you could hide the duct work, but again don't think PC would cause nearly the problems of heat that MH would if not cooled some way
In a smaller setup I think it would be hard to go this route unless it was built into a wall where you could hide the duct work, but again don't think PC would cause nearly the problems of heat that MH would if not cooled some way
spanky
Member
Actually, I read that many of them WERE hotter than halides, much to my surprise. (I mentioned/asked about that on a neighboring thread about halide heat, and Bang Guy confirmed it. Others subsequently confirmed it saying that heat is primarily a function of total wattage, not bulb type.
Also, when I referred to the heat, I wasn't talking about touching the bare bulbs, obviously. Like most folks, I know that touching lit bulbs is a bad idea. I was referring to the light housings, each of which is equipped with an internal fan because of the substantial heat problem. Even with the fans running (and NO canopy) the tops of the housings become VERY hot. I reasoned that they would become much hottER if they were stuck in a small, confined space and the efficacy of the fans was reduced. (The fans are mounted on the top of the almost-flat fixtures, so without the spacers they'd have to pull the hottest (highest) air through the very small creases along the top of hot fixture housing. I doubt they would be able to exchange cool air at all. I was convinced that such a mounting would dramatically reduce the cooling efficacy - and basically heat the air under the canopy.)
I don't know how many canopy lighting systems like this you have designed and built, but I'm interested in any alternative ideas you have to address the heat problem. It's a fairly small space to cram 1300+ watts of lighting into, and I couldn't think of a better way to facilitate the air circulation around the compacts AND the top and sides of the halide bulbs.
I don't even know if what I have conceived will be adequate, as the halides will not be here until the end of the week - but your confidence that what I have done is unnecessary overkill makes me feel better about it. :joy: I want to know that we can leave the house for a few days without worrying about the house burning down. :yes:
I you have descriptions/pictures of your designs that would be great, as I've got a few days to adjust before the big bulbs arrive.
Also, when I referred to the heat, I wasn't talking about touching the bare bulbs, obviously. Like most folks, I know that touching lit bulbs is a bad idea. I was referring to the light housings, each of which is equipped with an internal fan because of the substantial heat problem. Even with the fans running (and NO canopy) the tops of the housings become VERY hot. I reasoned that they would become much hottER if they were stuck in a small, confined space and the efficacy of the fans was reduced. (The fans are mounted on the top of the almost-flat fixtures, so without the spacers they'd have to pull the hottest (highest) air through the very small creases along the top of hot fixture housing. I doubt they would be able to exchange cool air at all. I was convinced that such a mounting would dramatically reduce the cooling efficacy - and basically heat the air under the canopy.)
I don't know how many canopy lighting systems like this you have designed and built, but I'm interested in any alternative ideas you have to address the heat problem. It's a fairly small space to cram 1300+ watts of lighting into, and I couldn't think of a better way to facilitate the air circulation around the compacts AND the top and sides of the halide bulbs.
I don't even know if what I have conceived will be adequate, as the halides will not be here until the end of the week - but your confidence that what I have done is unnecessary overkill makes me feel better about it. :joy: I want to know that we can leave the house for a few days without worrying about the house burning down. :yes:
I you have descriptions/pictures of your designs that would be great, as I've got a few days to adjust before the big bulbs arrive.
bang guy
Moderator
Originally Posted by Spanky
Actually, I read that many of them WERE hotter than halides, much to my surprise. (I mentioned/asked about that on a neighboring thread about halide heat, and Bang Guy confirmed it.
Don't confuse "hotter" with "gives off more heat". MH are hotter than PC because the heat is condensed into smaller area. PC give off slightly more heat because they are slightly less efficient (not much) but the surface temperature is a lot less because the heat is spread out over a much larger surface.
Actually, I read that many of them WERE hotter than halides, much to my surprise. (I mentioned/asked about that on a neighboring thread about halide heat, and Bang Guy confirmed it.
Don't confuse "hotter" with "gives off more heat". MH are hotter than PC because the heat is condensed into smaller area. PC give off slightly more heat because they are slightly less efficient (not much) but the surface temperature is a lot less because the heat is spread out over a much larger surface.
spanky
Member
OKay...but the real issue, if I recall my physics, is how much total heat is added to the system.
There must be a balance between heat intensity and the surface area through which the heat is communicated to the environment, right? . (Example: The small stove burner probably has to be set at a higher setting, but it is still capable of bringing the large pot to boil as quickly as the larger burner on a slightly lower setting. Ultimately, a given amount of water requires a specific amount of energy/heat to elevate it's temperature...)
What I am trying to do is safely, quietly, and economically evacuate the heat from my canopy so that my lighting will not over-elevate my tank temperature. :notsure:
There must be a balance between heat intensity and the surface area through which the heat is communicated to the environment, right? . (Example: The small stove burner probably has to be set at a higher setting, but it is still capable of bringing the large pot to boil as quickly as the larger burner on a slightly lower setting. Ultimately, a given amount of water requires a specific amount of energy/heat to elevate it's temperature...)
What I am trying to do is safely, quietly, and economically evacuate the heat from my canopy so that my lighting will not over-elevate my tank temperature. :notsure:
bang guy
Moderator
Originally Posted by Spanky
What I am trying to do is safely, quietly, and economically evacuate the heat from my canopy so that my lighting will not over-elevate my tank temperature. :notsure:
In my experience the temperature inside the canopy has only minimal effect on the ultimate tank temperature. Amount of light entering the water, the amount of waterflow, and amount of evaporation are the main players in my opinion.
Increasing evaporation has a profound effect on water temperature.
What I am trying to do is safely, quietly, and economically evacuate the heat from my canopy so that my lighting will not over-elevate my tank temperature. :notsure:
In my experience the temperature inside the canopy has only minimal effect on the ultimate tank temperature. Amount of light entering the water, the amount of waterflow, and amount of evaporation are the main players in my opinion.
Increasing evaporation has a profound effect on water temperature.
D
dboy999
Guest
acrylic ,iam also putting a exaust fan in my overhang of my 375..its a nutone 400cfm thats cubic feet aminute.dont know where you got an exaust fan for 12$ i paid 180 but this thing is very,very effeciente an very quite..
D
dboy999
Guest
iam just putting mine on the same timer as lights
D
dboy999
Guest
i will be using a few regular fans also in over hang for circulation
B
billb
Guest
This is just a thought on heat... some people might find it useful..not trying to hijack here..
https://www.saltwaterfish.com/vb/showthread.php?t=166509
Bill
https://www.saltwaterfish.com/vb/showthread.php?t=166509
Bill
G
guyute
Guest
hey acrylic-- you ever get an exhaust system rolling?
sorry if you have it in another thread... I was just looking around for ideas.. I saw this one.
I have a small filter room-- some under the stairs + a closet.. about 10ft x 3ft. 125 display on other side of wall, plus 55 fuge & 29 sump in the filter room. it's been getting pretty warm & moist in there.. the room stays closed. I'm thinking I need to vent to the outside and am looking for options.
running something off a thermostat sounds good
thanks
sorry if you have it in another thread... I was just looking around for ideas.. I saw this one.
I have a small filter room-- some under the stairs + a closet.. about 10ft x 3ft. 125 display on other side of wall, plus 55 fuge & 29 sump in the filter room. it's been getting pretty warm & moist in there.. the room stays closed. I'm thinking I need to vent to the outside and am looking for options.
running something off a thermostat sounds good
thanks
acrylic51
Active Member
Yeah sorry about lack of posting progress with fishroom, but yes I used a bathroom fan connected to a humistat to regulate the fans on and off time......I have wired it up to test it, but still working on other stuff and haven't permanently wired the humistat in it's permanent location.....
If needed I can take some pics of what I did and post them? The humistat does a very nice job......
If needed I can take some pics of what I did and post them? The humistat does a very nice job......