FIRE - 2 - Pics
- Thread starter supertube
- Start date
j21kickster
Active Member
dang!- k- i believe ( was skecptial at first but hadent shut you out)- sorry to hear, that was a nice light setup too
timsedwards
Active Member
Very sorry to hear your loss
Now Im worried about my new tank lights im getting! 4 T5's in a custom built wooden cannopy, is there anything you can do to ensure fire safety?
Tim
Now Im worried about my new tank lights im getting! 4 T5's in a custom built wooden cannopy, is there anything you can do to ensure fire safety?
Tim
overanalyzer
Active Member
DANG .... looks like the wires got pretty toasted ... could it have been a wiring issue?
Glad to hear you got most things moved .... hope & pray they all survive!
Glad to hear you got most things moved .... hope & pray they all survive!
supertube
New Member
Watch your fan wires!!!
I do think this was caused by the tiny fan wires. I looked at the them on the other side of the hood and they are brittle. I think they shorted out.
We want to know what you think of this plan:
We are thinking of setting up his 100g (yes the burnt one) in his basement. We are going to build a custom tank into the wall in the front room so this would be a temporary set-up.
To move all this back over to his house, we were thinking about using buckets; moving everything seperately (rocks in 1 bucket, fish in another, etc) Moving all the water and sand, everything. So we would have to add 45g of water, and more sand to the 100g. Do you think adding the 45g of water will kill everything?
The reason we are wanting to move it now, is because the 55g is too crowded for the livestock, and the custom tank is going to take some time.
I do think this was caused by the tiny fan wires. I looked at the them on the other side of the hood and they are brittle. I think they shorted out.
We want to know what you think of this plan:
We are thinking of setting up his 100g (yes the burnt one) in his basement. We are going to build a custom tank into the wall in the front room so this would be a temporary set-up.
To move all this back over to his house, we were thinking about using buckets; moving everything seperately (rocks in 1 bucket, fish in another, etc) Moving all the water and sand, everything. So we would have to add 45g of water, and more sand to the 100g. Do you think adding the 45g of water will kill everything?
The reason we are wanting to move it now, is because the 55g is too crowded for the livestock, and the custom tank is going to take some time.
broncofish
Active Member
Once again supertube sorry about everything, Is that tanks one pice seamless or does it have seams? The reason why I ask is because exposure to extreme heat can weaken acrylic cement. I would water test it, and makes sure nothing leaks
ophiura
Active Member
Man that is not something that an easily paranoid person should see. I'm ruined.
Really sorry for your situation, but THANK YOU for sharing your story and opinions on what happened.
You know, on the space shuttle simulator, they throw all sorts of random breakdowns at those guys that you figure they will never encounter. This is one of those stories that I am glad was shared because of the brainstorming session that followed (what to do with extinguisher stuff in the tank, wiring, etc).
Really sorry for your situation, but THANK YOU for sharing your story and opinions on what happened.
You know, on the space shuttle simulator, they throw all sorts of random breakdowns at those guys that you figure they will never encounter. This is one of those stories that I am glad was shared because of the brainstorming session that followed (what to do with extinguisher stuff in the tank, wiring, etc).
gatorcsm
Member
I would not recommend even considering the use of dry chemical extinguishers anywhere except for grease fires in the house. It is extremely caustic and any electrical components it touches will be ruined. I've seen it used on our submarine, and it is not an easy clean-up. A small CO2 or if you must, AFFF (aqueous film forming foam)... but PKP (dry chemical) would not be well suited for that application.
CO2 is always best for electrical fires. Use 3-4 feet away, and if it has a cone, ensure you ground it after use; it can build up quite an electric charge.
CO2 is always best for electrical fires. Use 3-4 feet away, and if it has a cone, ensure you ground it after use; it can build up quite an electric charge.
timsedwards
Active Member
Maybe a good idea to ask Bill (eng50), he's a fireman!
Tim
Tim
S
simm
Guest
this is the ingrediants for an ABC (kitchen extinguisher)
Mono Ammonium Phosphate
Tricalcium Phosphate
Methyl Hydrogen Polysiloxane
Also there is HALON
Mono Ammonium Phosphate
Tricalcium Phosphate
Methyl Hydrogen Polysiloxane
Also there is HALON
gatorcsm
Member
Mine is PKP (Pottasium Bicarbonate); it is extremely corrosive...
But maybe there are some others that aren't...
I guess it would be better to say, some dry chemical is bad.
IMO, you can never go wrong with a large CO2 extinguisher (one with the large cones.)
The ones that can be refilled last a long time without needed a refill. They are just supposed to be 'checked out' every once and a while, then refilled...
The ABC is for what classes of fires
Class A - Wood, paper, plastic
Class B - Oil, Gas, Kerosene (liquid fuel)
Class C - Electrical (turns to class A once de-energized)
Class D - Metal usually Magnesium/zinc (solid state fuels)
But maybe there are some others that aren't...
I guess it would be better to say, some dry chemical is bad.
IMO, you can never go wrong with a large CO2 extinguisher (one with the large cones.)
The ones that can be refilled last a long time without needed a refill. They are just supposed to be 'checked out' every once and a while, then refilled...
The ABC is for what classes of fires
Class A - Wood, paper, plastic
Class B - Oil, Gas, Kerosene (liquid fuel)
Class C - Electrical (turns to class A once de-energized)
Class D - Metal usually Magnesium/zinc (solid state fuels)
josh
Active Member
You would be hard pressed to find halon anywhere these days. A lot of industries moved away from it. If you weren't fast enough to get out of the room, the halon would kill you before the fire did!
AFFF is more used to supress fire than to knock it down. I havne't seen any consumer foam packs on the market, there are what are called pro-packs but I haven't seen them in any stores.
Don't skimp on a household extingusher. Don't buy the little ones at Target and places like that. Get a metal one that can be serviced every year and properly inspected! When it comes to fires on a tank, if you can remove the part of the tank that's on fire, safely that is, do so. If not by all means hit it with an extinguisher. Better to lose the tank and not the whole house!
*** has anyone been at a car fire and hit some mag. with water.....wow!
AFFF is more used to supress fire than to knock it down. I havne't seen any consumer foam packs on the market, there are what are called pro-packs but I haven't seen them in any stores.
Don't skimp on a household extingusher. Don't buy the little ones at Target and places like that. Get a metal one that can be serviced every year and properly inspected! When it comes to fires on a tank, if you can remove the part of the tank that's on fire, safely that is, do so. If not by all means hit it with an extinguisher. Better to lose the tank and not the whole house!
*** has anyone been at a car fire and hit some mag. with water.....wow!
josh
Active Member
No kidding, I haven't seen those before. Yes, foam is for supression. So once you spray it, don't break the surface...or it might flash again which is bad news.
Is it 3% or 5% foam? Hmmm, I hope it comes with good directions, appyling foam can be tricker than dry chem. as there are several ways to apply it, and the way you apply it ( bank it in, roll it in etc ) is determined by the conditions.
Is it 3% or 5% foam? Hmmm, I hope it comes with good directions, appyling foam can be tricker than dry chem. as there are several ways to apply it, and the way you apply it ( bank it in, roll it in etc ) is determined by the conditions.