splash1914
Member
Sharks!
There are many sharks available for the aquarium trade, here are just a few that I have had personal experience with: (Either at my home or at both of the schools where I taught)
1)Leopard Shark (Triakis semifasciata)
2)Horn Sharks/Port Jackson shark)
3)Wobbegong (Orectolobus ornatus)
4)Nurse Shark (Ginglymostoma cirratum)
1) Leopard Sharks/Smoothounds
•Live bearers and come from California/Mexico region
•These sharks get to be about 3-6’ in length at maturity
•From my experience, these sharks grow about 3-4” a year in captivity. I currently have 2 Leopards that I feed every few days. Their diet consists of shrimp, scallops, squid, shark formula, and blue legs. Of the 5 Leopards I have owned, in the last few years (4 at my home and 2 at my old school where I taught) only one has died on me … A green moray ate the shark within 5 seconds of putting him in the tank! The green moray now resides at the Orlando Science Center! IME, I have RARELY seen them on the bottom during the day. All of mine have been extremely active. IME, these sharks are pretty hardy. I had one that ate a coral cat and its skull fused itself to the jaw of the Leopard!! My wife held the shark out of the water, while I used tweezers to pull the coral cat’s head out of the Leopard’s jaw!! One of the Leopards I have now had a confrontation with a bristle worm and had a ton of bristles stuck in his face, so I had to pull him out of the water and use tweezers on him as well!
•By far this is my favorite fish for the aquarium!
• Unfortunately, these sharks will outgrow normal aquarium conditions in a few years and their owners will have to find them new homes. A new home should be arranged before buying the shark.
2) Horn Shark
•These sharks get to be about 3 & 1/2’ long
•Are also meat eaters.
•Prefer colder waters 55-70 degrees but can be acclimated to warmer conditions. I had mine in a 400 that had a chiller set to 75.
•IME, mine was relatively inactive, it barley did anything. It didn’t bother any other fish in the tank
•Minimum tank size for life is 300 gallons (Opinions vary)
•I ended up trading him for a 2’ wobby.
3) Wobbegong
•There are many types of wobbies. (Japanese, Tassled, Banded, Spotted)
•Wobbegongs vary from 2’ and up to 10’
•They are ambush predators and will eat anything they can fit in their mouth. Mine ate a 12” grouper then crashed my whole system after digesting it!
•IME, they are relatively inactive. Like my Horn shark, it basically laid around.
•Depending on the type of Wobby you get, depends on how big of a tank you must have to house for life.
4) Nurse Shark
•These guys get huge! They can reach 10-14’ in length.
•IMO, they are very hardy. Like the wobby, they will eat anything they can fit in their mouth! Over the years I owned a few of these bad boys and ended up releasing all of them back to the ocean. However, I currently have a 14” nurse in a 300 gallon tank at the school where I teach that a parent donated. He has already eaten a small parrot fish. We will end up releasing him back to the ocean probably next school year. The ones I have had in the past have been somewhat active. Well, at least when I walk up to the tank they begin swimming! With so many students walking by the tank the shark is always moving. (thinking he is going to be fed).
•As a juvenile, they have black dots all over their bodies, as they mature these dots fade away. >
•These sharks will outgrow normal aquarium conditions in a few years and their owners will have to find them new homes. A new home should be arranged before buying the shark
TIPS:
•Filtration: IMO, a wet/dry filter, a skimmer, and a RO unit are a must. If you are going to invest your time and money in shark, do it right. Spend a few extra dollars and get good quality equipment. Buy the biggest tank you can afford.
•Live Rock or rock structures: Be careful how you stack your rockwork! Sharks will topple your rocks in a second to get after food. This could cause serious harm to your shark!!
•Do not use any copper treatment that a shark is in!!! It is lethal.
•Use sand. Crushed coral or other coarse substrate will scratch their bellies.
•Feed sparingly, every other day to 3 days will be fine.
•IMO, the aquarium’s footprint (LxWxH) is more important than gallons. Mine is only 200 gallons, but is 8’ long.
•I am probably leaving much more out, but this all I can think of right now!!!
Please post your shark photos and experiences!!
There are many sharks available for the aquarium trade, here are just a few that I have had personal experience with: (Either at my home or at both of the schools where I taught)
1)Leopard Shark (Triakis semifasciata)
2)Horn Sharks/Port Jackson shark)
3)Wobbegong (Orectolobus ornatus)
4)Nurse Shark (Ginglymostoma cirratum)
1) Leopard Sharks/Smoothounds
•Live bearers and come from California/Mexico region
•These sharks get to be about 3-6’ in length at maturity
•From my experience, these sharks grow about 3-4” a year in captivity. I currently have 2 Leopards that I feed every few days. Their diet consists of shrimp, scallops, squid, shark formula, and blue legs. Of the 5 Leopards I have owned, in the last few years (4 at my home and 2 at my old school where I taught) only one has died on me … A green moray ate the shark within 5 seconds of putting him in the tank! The green moray now resides at the Orlando Science Center! IME, I have RARELY seen them on the bottom during the day. All of mine have been extremely active. IME, these sharks are pretty hardy. I had one that ate a coral cat and its skull fused itself to the jaw of the Leopard!! My wife held the shark out of the water, while I used tweezers to pull the coral cat’s head out of the Leopard’s jaw!! One of the Leopards I have now had a confrontation with a bristle worm and had a ton of bristles stuck in his face, so I had to pull him out of the water and use tweezers on him as well!
•By far this is my favorite fish for the aquarium!
• Unfortunately, these sharks will outgrow normal aquarium conditions in a few years and their owners will have to find them new homes. A new home should be arranged before buying the shark.
2) Horn Shark
•These sharks get to be about 3 & 1/2’ long
•Are also meat eaters.
•Prefer colder waters 55-70 degrees but can be acclimated to warmer conditions. I had mine in a 400 that had a chiller set to 75.
•IME, mine was relatively inactive, it barley did anything. It didn’t bother any other fish in the tank
•Minimum tank size for life is 300 gallons (Opinions vary)
•I ended up trading him for a 2’ wobby.
3) Wobbegong
•There are many types of wobbies. (Japanese, Tassled, Banded, Spotted)
•Wobbegongs vary from 2’ and up to 10’
•They are ambush predators and will eat anything they can fit in their mouth. Mine ate a 12” grouper then crashed my whole system after digesting it!
•IME, they are relatively inactive. Like my Horn shark, it basically laid around.
•Depending on the type of Wobby you get, depends on how big of a tank you must have to house for life.
4) Nurse Shark
•These guys get huge! They can reach 10-14’ in length.
•IMO, they are very hardy. Like the wobby, they will eat anything they can fit in their mouth! Over the years I owned a few of these bad boys and ended up releasing all of them back to the ocean. However, I currently have a 14” nurse in a 300 gallon tank at the school where I teach that a parent donated. He has already eaten a small parrot fish. We will end up releasing him back to the ocean probably next school year. The ones I have had in the past have been somewhat active. Well, at least when I walk up to the tank they begin swimming! With so many students walking by the tank the shark is always moving. (thinking he is going to be fed).
•As a juvenile, they have black dots all over their bodies, as they mature these dots fade away. >
•These sharks will outgrow normal aquarium conditions in a few years and their owners will have to find them new homes. A new home should be arranged before buying the shark
TIPS:
•Filtration: IMO, a wet/dry filter, a skimmer, and a RO unit are a must. If you are going to invest your time and money in shark, do it right. Spend a few extra dollars and get good quality equipment. Buy the biggest tank you can afford.
•Live Rock or rock structures: Be careful how you stack your rockwork! Sharks will topple your rocks in a second to get after food. This could cause serious harm to your shark!!
•Do not use any copper treatment that a shark is in!!! It is lethal.
•Use sand. Crushed coral or other coarse substrate will scratch their bellies.
•Feed sparingly, every other day to 3 days will be fine.
•IMO, the aquarium’s footprint (LxWxH) is more important than gallons. Mine is only 200 gallons, but is 8’ long.
•I am probably leaving much more out, but this all I can think of right now!!!
Please post your shark photos and experiences!!