Fishkid's 135gal reef build...

fishkid13

Active Member
On the bulkhead I was planning on getting a PVC pipe that would screw onto the threaded peice of it and put some of that tape on their. And for the returens I was going to have it like I have my current on except have it go through the glass instead of over and have an anti-sifin vaule on it.
 

groupergenius

Active Member
Keep the returns higher than the overflows. When power is off to the pump, it will drain back through the pump and into the sump and more than likely overfill the sump the way you have it drawn.
 

fishkid13

Active Member
Hey Grouper you showed up. I am going to put a anti-syphon thing in the pipe so if the power goes out it won't suck back into the sump. And the things are not perfect in the picture. Thanks. Anyone else want to say something. Joe were are you? I need some critisem.
 

fishkid13

Active Member
Current list of replyers:
Meowzer
King_Neptune
ZmyDust
Tru Conch
Impluse-ive
GrouperGenius
Spanko
JJ Harrison
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some usefull info...
I have a stand pipe overflow like the blue one illustrated in that picture.
for that size tank you want to have some big holes for the bulk head drilled1.5-1.75 inches so if you wanted to really amp up the flow on the tank all you would have to do is buy a bigger pump.
Once you drill the tank there is no such thing as "boring" out the hole...
Just a problem i ran into with my tank
 

fishkid13

Active Member
Originally Posted by Sir Mixxalot
http:///forum/post/3066102
some usefull info...
I have a stand pipe overflow like the blue one illustrated in that picture.
for that size tank you want to have some big holes for the bulk head drilled1.5-1.75 inches so if you wanted to really amp up the flow on the tank all you would have to do is buy a bigger pump.
Once you drill the tank there is no such thing as "boring" out the hole...
Just a problem i ran into with my tank
Hey thanks Sir Mixxalot, join the list. I am a little confused about what you are saying.

I am ethier going to use the rio or the other one, Flotec is what it is.
 
ha i read the whole thread SPANKO lol what i am trying to say is that when you drill the tank drill at least half an inch bigger for a "just in case". such as:
just in case a snail SOME HOW makes it down the tubing
just in case you want to have more flow through a certian part of your sump
just in case you want to divert the plumbing to a frag tank right next to the DT
AND MANY OTHER REASONS!
once you drill the hole in the glass it is EXTREEMLY risky to take a bigger diamond glass bit and make the hole bigger. the glass will more likely flake or crack which in turn could cause the back pane to bust out.
yes you could always drill a new hole and patch the old one but then you would have a swis cheese looking tank lol
i usually prepair for the just in case situations but in my newer 50 gallon this is the one thing that i overlooked is drilling a bigger hole for the overflow
 

king_neptune

Active Member

this lines up the drill bit easy. i put putty in a ring to hold water.
i ordered my bits from glassholes dot com
$25 for a diamond bit. cut through 1/2 inch of glass in 20 min.
just do it in short bursts, about 3-5 seconds the first half..then drive it home in 5-10 second bursts. basically dont do anything but hold the drill bit straight up adn down, and let it do all the work. no pressure.
 

ca161406

Member
Originally Posted by jj_harrison
http:///forum/post/3065532
something like this would be a little better but unless you put the 90deg on the inside of the tank with the overflow box.
Just my $0.02....
do NOOOOT use this type of overflow. i have them on my 125 and they SUCK, i have the airline to prevent the gurgling but i gotta adjust them everyday and they sometimes don't flow right then all the sudden give this super loud toilet flushing sound and don't give much surface skimming.
get a box
thats the reason for me looking for an upgrade on my tank
 

fishkid13

Active Member
Originally Posted by spanko
http:///forum/post/3066230
I read, go big or go home!!!!
Well I am at home and it is a big tank. Hahah
Originally Posted by Sir Mixxalot
http:///forum/post/3066274
ha i read the whole thread SPANKO lol what i am trying to say is that when you drill the tank drill at least half an inch bigger for a "just in case". such as:
just in case a snail SOME HOW makes it down the tubing
just in case you want to have more flow through a certian part of your sump
just in case you want to divert the plumbing to a frag tank right next to the DT
AND MANY OTHER REASONS!
once you drill the hole in the glass it is EXTREEMLY risky to take a bigger diamond glass bit and make the hole bigger. the glass will more likely flake or crack which in turn could cause the back pane to bust out.
yes you could always drill a new hole and patch the old one but then you would have a swis cheese looking tank lol
i usually prepair for the just in case situations but in my newer 50 gallon this is the one thing that i overlooked is drilling a bigger hole for the overflow
Ok I see your point but it the hole was bigger then wouldn't I need the bulkhead to be that size instead of smaller.? And wouldn't it leak some water?
Originally Posted by King_Neptune

http:///forum/post/3066702

this lines up the drill bit easy. i put putty in a ring to hold water.
i ordered my bits from glassholes dot com
$25 for a diamond bit. cut through 1/2 inch of glass in 20 min.
just do it in short bursts, about 3-5 seconds the first half..then drive it home in 5-10 second bursts. basically dont do anything but hold the drill bit straight up adn down, and let it do all the work. no pressure.
I am just taking it to the glass shop. Not risking it.
Originally Posted by ca161406

http:///forum/post/3066723
do NOOOOT use this type of overflow. i have them on my 125 and they SUCK, i have the airline to prevent the gurgling but i gotta adjust them everyday and they sometimes don't flow right then all the sudden give this super loud toilet flushing sound and don't give much surface skimming.
get a box
thats the reason for me looking for an upgrade on my tank
Do not use the one I have? What makes the box so much better? The way I was going to do it (don't know about it know, need some more ideals) that the overflows (the ones I currently have, Need to use them so I didn't just waste $30) were going to be below the suface were they wouldn't get air and the pipes would just have water in them. The end of the pipe would end up in the water so their would be no noise of water. Make sense??
Good news. I relize I have little more money then I expected. I have $260 to spend on this.
More comments?
 

fishkid13

Active Member
Current list of replyers:
Meowzer

King_Neptune

ZmyDust

Tru Conch

Impluse-ive

GrouperGenius

Spanko

JJ Harrison

Sir Mixxalot

Ca161406

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yes you would need a bigger bulkhead to fit the bigger hole and if everything is installed correctly with teflon tape and rubber seals there should not be a leaking problem no matter what size hole you drill
 

meowzer

Moderator
FISHKID....I agree with you 100% with the glass shop. Just make sure you tell them the EXACT dimension of what you want done
 

fishkid13

Active Member
Originally Posted by Sir Mixxalot
http:///forum/post/3066853
yes you would need a bigger bulkhead to fit the bigger hole and if everything is installed correctly with teflon tape and rubber seals there should not be a leaking problem no matter what size hole you drill
I am just thinking to keep it the size I wan't sense I don't plan on changing the things. If I want more flow I could just add powerheads, right?
Originally Posted by meowzer

http:///forum/post/3066857
FISHKID....I agree with you 100% with the glass shop. Just make sure you tell them the EXACT dimension of what you want done
I am going to bring the bulkheads with me and just tell them to cut it so these fit in and are tight, and "DON'T LOSE THEM!". ahah
 

king_neptune

Active Member
i wanted to as well, but my glass shop wanted to charge me $60 per hole...no guarantee.
Hope your guys are cool and don't think they can ---- you cause you have no where else to turn to.
I really want to see this all implemented. I like your design on paper, and critics aside...i think it will work fine.
 

fishkid13

Active Member
Originally Posted by King_Neptune
http:///forum/post/3067115
i wanted to as well, but my glass shop wanted to charge me $60 per hole...no guarantee.
Hope your guys are cool and don't think they can ---- you cause you have no where else to turn to.
I really want to see this all implemented. I like your design on paper, and critics aside...i think it will work fine.
What a rip off. We have a few glass places here so we could easily just go to the next one. When I had my hole drilled for my 84 (from the same place that I am going to have drill this one) they did a great job and it was a little more that $7 for a hole. Thanks King, by the way how is your tank and stuff doing?
 

king_neptune

Active Member
the 125 is waiting on my next pay check, in about 3 weeks it should arrive. With that I buy the materials for the stand, and then i set up all the pieces Ive accumulated over the last 6 months. I already have everythign, sand,salt,pumps,lights,skimmer,sump,fuge everything!
Jsut waiting on a stand to put it all on top of.
Final assembly should begin middle of next month.
The 28gal nano is going agonizingly slow. Its my dads, but he isnt nearly as excited as me. He does it in spurts, sigh.
Waiting on him to install the RO-DI unit, so i can at least mix water and fill it...i cant install it because he wont let me touch the plumbing in his house...paranoid old man, I cant change that about him...i gave up long ago.
He still needs to do his rock wall, but hasnt baught the materials yet. He still needs to order the LR, and he claims hes doing that on monday...well see. So far you cant order LR if you dont evin have water in your tank. Its moving along...jsut slowly.
Congrats on the cheap holes..i am now in full agreement with you...$7 a hole is dirt cheap. Good job on the find.
My one word of advice on choosing the hole size, like people have already said...make the holes bigger than you initialy intend to use. You can always use a reducer or valve control.
I drilled 2"1/2 lines on mine, when all i need is 1"1/2. The extra sized lines will allow me to do future upgrades as needed. Ill put ball valves on it to control the water flow to reduce each drain line to about 600ish GPH. But if I need to, i got the option to beef it up.
 

fishkid13

Active Member
Cool I will be waiting for updates.
It will be cheap per hole put it will add up with four holes.
Updates

none.

But I am leaving tomorrow for our cabin and going to particpate in the Utah Summer Games.
Going to be doing the 8 hundard meter dash.
 
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