For those who drilled their brute trash can

nel621

Member
After you drilled your trash can for storage water did you add a Bulk fitting to it to drain the water or did you use something else?I was at my local HD trying to get some ideas on attaching a ball valve to a brute can but was not sure what type of fitting should exit the can,duh!Do I need a bulk head or is there a pvc fitting I can use.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
I used a bulkhead.....but I have a pump plumbed into the bottom bulkhead in the can and 1 in the top which is also connected to the mixing, pump, but you can just install a bulkhead in the bottom or near the bottom of the can and use a ball or gate valve.
 

nel621

Member
Originally Posted by joncat24
uniseals work very well for the rounded surface of the brute cans also

What is a uniseal and where do you buy it?
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
I've never heard of a uniseal either, what's that?
I've always used a bulkhead in the bottom of my water storage containers. They are nice, easy, and conveinant, and they don't leak as often as a male/female adaptor with a gasket. However, with a little silicone, that can be fixed.
On what sized bulkhead, it doesn't matter, honestly. Whatever fittings you bought for it, using a 3/4" or a 1" drain pipe works really well. If you go with 3/4" keep all your fittings as 3/4"
A 3/4" bulhead I think needs a 1 1/2" hole or smaller. I think...
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Originally Posted by Nel621
Oh,what size bulk head did you use?
1", but really depends on what's easiest to hook up the ball valve IMO
 

scsinet

Active Member
A 28g brute can with a 1" bulkhead, valve, etc will fill a 6 gallon bucket with water in only a few seconds. IMO it's the perfect size.
 

indyws6

Member
Greetings

I used a combination of PVC plumbing and electical fittings to make my own bulkheads and then installed ball valves in "re-purposed" water softener brine tanks (bought new for this effort) - one for RO/DI and the other for Saltwater mix. A Uniseal might have been better, but there was no local source and I am too impatient to wait
This approach has worked without a problem for several months now...


 

indyws6

Member
BIG - Thanks

I will eventually plumb from the tanks to the aquarium - from the RO tank for auto top-off and from the saltwater tank for semi-automated water changing. Just waiting on the weather to improve since the lines will run in my crawlspace. The outlets and switches above the tanks are for the pumps and heaters that will be required...
 

nel621

Member
How big are those holding tanks and what size fish/reef tank do you have?That's a lot of water!Did you use silicone to prevent any leaks? Or some type of gasket?
 

nel621

Member
Originally Posted by coraljunky
.....
Is the di water entering the top can,then you open a valve an let it drain down into a mixing can?
 

apos

Member
Hey, I'm looking to use some uniseals to plumb a remote dark sand bed.... but the instructions on the uniseals say to use WINDEX in order to lube them in!!! Won't this be extremely toxic to my tank?
 

nel621

Member
Originally Posted by Apos
http:///forum/post/2453333
Hey, I'm looking to use some uniseals to plumb a remote dark sand bed.... but the instructions on the uniseals say to use WINDEX in order to lube them in!!! Won't this be extremely toxic to my tank?
What is and where did you get a uniseal?pic?
 

coraljunky

Active Member
Originally Posted by Nel621
http:///forum/post/2448787
why is the top can tee-d off?
Top can houses the ro/di. The tee allows water to fill the bottom mixing can or to a tap to fill a bucket/container.
I'd post more pics but the uploads continue to FAIL
 
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