fuge/sump

bimmerboy1

bimmerboy1

Member
I have been reading for days now about setting up a fuge/sump, but the more I read the more I realize I have no clue what to do. I have space below the display tank, and I have an empty 20gal tall tank. what else would I need to make everything work correctly. most I have seen have plates and such in them, but Im not sure how I would get the plate there. I have money, so thats no a HUGE deal, but I would still like to keep the costs to a minimum. and help/diagrams would be greatly appreciated. I would like to know everything... explaining it like you were a 8th grader would be helpful lol. thanks for helping out with my confusion.
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
How big is the tank you want to support with this sump/fuge...?
How much room do you have (under stand) to place this sump/fuge set up...?
The first "problem" I see is that if you want to do a sump/fuge "combo" the 20 tall tank does not leave alot of "surface area" for the fuge part once you "divide it" for the pump/skimmer part...
Can you work a second tank/tub into your stand...?
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Do you have a particular skimmer you want to incorporate into this design...?
That will help determine if you should use the 20 for the sump or the fuge...
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Let's start at the top...
Is your tank "drilled" for an overflow, or will you have to buy/build a Hang on Back overflow...?
The "overflow is the part that will get the water out of your tank and "to" the sump...
 
bimmerboy1

bimmerboy1

Member
my tank isnt drilled so I will need to purchase an overflow( dont know where, so help there would be good). I have a red sea prism skimmer right now, and a canister filter.
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
OK...we can get to the Hang on overflow later..(or you can do a search in this forum for DIY and store bought...I recomend a "U" tube type vs a CPR)...
Prism skimmer is HOB so you could go with a simple one tank system because you'll have a "fair" amount of room for the fuge...
Something like this...??
 
bimmerboy1

bimmerboy1

Member
that looks perfect. how would I go about setting one up like that. I looked all over and read a bunch of diagrams, but there are components I just dont understand, like how you divide it up, what size/power of pumps to use, how the plumbing will work, and how to prevent overflow from a powerout. Ive read 3-5 in of LS will be good, what other components should it be made up with. thanks very much. your helping me out a great deal
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Are you "handy" or have a Dad or someone to help you out...?
Would you be "comfortable" cutting glass...it's cheap and easy...(you can get a piece of 3/16" window glass for next to nothing or free if you want to take it out of an old window and the "cutter" is like $3)
Or would you rather work with "Plexiglas" also cheap, but you need a saw (preferably a table saw) to cut it...
That's what you'll make the "baffles" out of...and then a tube of 100% Silicone sealant to attach them in the tank.
Tank is basically 3 "chambers" so you would need a minimum of 2 baffles...
1st chamber (left side of pic above) is where the water enters from the overflow hose...the 1st baffle helps keep the bubbles contained.
Center section is the "fuge" with a sand bed and macros...
2nd baffle helps keep flow low and plants/sand from getting into the pump chamber...(right side)
1st chamber only needs to be 2" wide for the hose and "bubbles"..center as wide as possible for most "area"...the return pump section is about 6" just enough room for the pump...
Skimmer hangs on back, picking up water "closest" to the overflow hose and returning closest to the return pump chamber...
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
There would be a slight advantage to the skimmer if you made the first "chamber" wide enough to fit you skimmer pump...maybe 4" ?
Then the water level the skimmer "sees" would be held at a constant level and it would be easier to maintain the skimmer "setting"...
Of course, you would lose a little "fuge" area...
 
einnaws

einnaws

Member
Bizzare....regardless, is the sump and fuge necessary or just something that is very helpful. also what is the going price for skimers. and how much would you estimate a good system like yours to cost?
 
bimmerboy1

bimmerboy1

Member
the fuge isnt required but is most deffinently reccomended. skimmers range from anywhere between 100-200 bucks. I would also like to know the final cost of a setup for a system for something around like a 55gal. thanks very much. while squidd was deffinenetly helpful I still have a few questions left.
 
bimmerboy1

bimmerboy1

Member
OH haha I thought you just didnt understand my diagram. how am I supposed to post up pictures. Or where should I have my pictures hosted?? thanks
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Sorry, computer wise, I can't answer your question above...
Heck, I just /finally got your pic opened to see your drawing...:D
Anyway, looks like a good start...and will "work" as is...
But, here is where you start looking at "trade offs" to maximize potential/minimize problems down the road...
If you build it as drawn (starting on the "left")...
You widened the "input chamber" to fit your skimmer pump...you lost a little fuge space but gained in steady water level for the pump...Water will stay at the level of the "second" baffle (the one touching the bottom) Let's say that one is 14" tall...
Water spills over the 2nd baffle into the 'fuge" area where the level will stay at the height of the 3rd baffle...Lets say that ones also 14" tall...
Then the water spills over into the return pump area...
This is where any change in water level due to evaporation will show up...this area is 14" tall X 12" deep (front to back) X 6" wide (built to fit pump)...This will give you 4.36 gallons for the the pump... But it will run "dry" in about 1/3 that...so you end up with "about 2 1/2 gallons of "evap time" to play with between top offs...Following me here...?
If your evaporation rate is low enough...(gets higher with MH lights and fans blowing for cooling) then this design will "work" ... If you run a "High Evap Rate" let me know and there are some "trick modifications" you can do to "minimize time between top offs...
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
For your 55 gallon tank and a 20 gallon sump/fuge combo, I would sugest a pump "rated at" 500 to 700 gph...A mag 5 or a Mag 7 are good choices, there are other brands...
A Mag 5 will give you about 300 gph actual flow to your tank/sump and the Mag 7 about 400-450, depending on line size elbows and outlets...
I'll assume you already have a couple poweheads to "supplement" your circulation and you'll need to keep those to keep "turnover" in the 10X to 20X range in the tank.
As all the water going to the sump flows "through" your fuge in this design...I'm leaning more towards the Mag 5, as the Mag 7 would give you 20 X turn over in your fuge and thats a bit too quick for proper nutrient removal...
"Running Dry" is when the pump starts to suck air through it, because there isn't enough water to cover it...That will give you headachs with all the bubbles in your tank, not to mention the pump "cavitating" and possiably overheating and burning out...
 
bimmerboy1

bimmerboy1

Member
thank you soooo much. i understand pretty much everything now.I have two last questions. What size piping would you reccomend, because I know that has an impact on flow and what not. and last how does the overflow actually work?? and where could I get one. thanks again!
 
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